sskunky

Welcome aboard trooper.

LOL, I've just noticed this untrimmed pull.......With the bulge run off! Maybe just a couple of wooden blocks placed somewhere either side will help........

Very nice. Loving the work! When you vacuum form the faceplate it will help to build up the run off under the chin and tubes. It will help the pull not creasing at the base of the tubes. Like a sloping bulge. It will pull the plastic away from the bottom of the tube. Adding blocks etc to moulds in certain places will help with any creasing forming on the pulls on any pull. Just experiment...... Good luck.

Nice write up Vern! OK, I can tell you that this was cast from the correct parts originally except the the power cylinders. How do I know? I supplied SDS my parts to cast many years ago before all the S*** hit the fan! I got my parts back totally infested in silicone. Not really usable and got absolutely nothing in return for my troubles. Not even a crappy blaster! I tried to educate AA about all the details but it just went in one ear and out the other. They are injection moulded would you believe! Using this method you should get cracking results but I think the initial casting was poor. There you have it! In the true words of Vern...... ENJOY!

When I assemble suits for customers I find it much easier to split it into sections. Get all the tools, magnets, stanley knife, rachet clamps, glue and music to make armour by . Trim all the parts. Assemble the helmet Glue arms. glue legs. paint details, Ab buttons, helmet. Rivet belt, sniper plate and ammo pack. Strap it. done! As others have said, take your time and enjoy the build. If your not sure, ask. You'll feel better asking and doing it right rather than going in all guns blazing and doing it wrong. Good luck!

When glueing in strapping I use Stelmax. It's close to what was used originally in ROTJ armour. Be careful though as it will warp if you use too much. -------

I use Liquid solvent cement for ABS and HIPS. Although I rarely use HIPS but it does bond. Most people use it incorrectly. You are not supposed to apply it to the surfaces until the two are clamped together. You cannot really go wrong as long as you make sure the pieces are in the correct orientation before applying the liquid. Technically you would use ABSOL for ABS and HIPSOL for HIPS but the universal liquid cement works. I decant it into a needle bottle applicator which makes it easier to use from this: ------- to this ------ or you can use one of these(remember the top has a reverse thread) just dispose of the glue inside and replace with liquid solvent. --------- You can apply it with a brush to the seam too but I find it quicker to use the bottle method. Once the two parts are clamped securely together all you need do is run the needle down the seam and the liquid will seep into the two pieces in a capillary action and bond them together permanently and very cleanly.... Be careful not to let the liquid drip across armour as it will eat into it! You can sand it down and polish it if it does so not all is lost if you do drip it. I have used this for years and it never fails me. It's clean and invisible bond.

His armour is reworked GF and Oakley/TE derived armour. Not much in the way of links to original. I believe his helmet was a reworked Promotional helmet from what I can tell.....

Power Cylinders works for me. That is what I've always called them.

If I remember correctly this site did them and I think it's where I got mine. They are not showing on their site anymore but I have spoken to them and they say they still have some but would have to check in the warehouse. edit: forgot the link! http://www.helstongunsmiths.com

I'll have to dig around and find the link but i bought one from a UK gun site.

LOL, I just realised I had already said all this! I must be getting old.... As far as I can remember Gino's was done from photos as at the time he had no direct access to real screen lightsabers. I could be wrong but there was a huge thread on the RPF about this years ago. Don't get me wrong its great stuff but it is not a found item. I guess dimensions could have changed over the years with the imperial/metric conversions. MY sterling holes are more or less 7/8" and Marv's and my T-Track pretty much covers the holes as much as the originals did anyway.

If they use the same standard magazines then you can get 10 round Sterling mags off the shelf.

I disagree I think Marvs and mine which are from the same source are accurate. I have them on my Sterling and they are great. They are a found item off the shelf from the same country that the originals came from. No one else has ever found T Track off the shelf except Pol, who's was brown. Gino's was a custom made T-Track and was only sized from photo's.

I'd certainly be interested in hearing more on this subject. I have my own opinions of the history but to hear it first hand would be great. Just for your information I waited 2 1/2 years years for my piece of crap from TE! Hahahaha........Even then half my order was missing. Never seen it to this day. Crack on buddy.........

Yay! Thanks mate.

I want the top of the range all singing , all dancing, super duper, uber accurate you can't get better than this version!

I'm tempted to get mine unpainted.

By the way and joking aside these are looking absolutely fantastic Andy!

Maybe "Super Duper Uber accurate Stormtrooper E-11 Blaster Power Cyilinders Research (it's taken a while but I think I'm there) Thread"?

You can just use a wet n dry paper right up to 2000 grit then buff up with Novus plastic polish which comes In 1, 2, 3 grades.

Not sure but if it a Rotj I can help you there.

I'm here for the duration. Any advice you need just ask. Mark.