justjoseph63

OK, Jonathan, I am WELL impressed (seriously) with the way the forearm fits, and SO glad to see that you removed the return edges from the tops of them! But.. those of you who know me know my feelings on return edges in general, lol. I know many troopers like the way they give our armor a "thicker" look. but in reality when it comes down to it we have to spend hours actually wearing these costumes, and return edges in certain places can make life mighty uncomfortable, especially in the area where your arms bend since we spend most of our time with our arms at a 45 degree angle holding an E-11. Having red welts from armor-bite is preventable (and totally screen accurate) by simply removing them, and I assure you that the general public will not notice. Trust me on this one.

Sometimes re-building is a part of the process, Nadas. Is it a pain in the a$$ posterior plate? Yes, but you are doing a fantastic job! Looks like the front of your shins are going to come out looking spectacular, sir!

GREAT call on using Plasti-Dip as a base coat, Sha Sha! Although EVA is very versatile, it's important to have a clean level finish on the surfaces. The reason I mentioned using white EVA as a base is that once the inevitable cracks and scuffs develop (like the originals) the color that peeks through should not be black.

Great to hear that you pulled the trigger on your armor purchase, Jeff! You are going to be more that pleased with AM, and as you mentioned, Dave is awesome to deal with. Looking forward to seeing your build thread!!

I personally would not have an issue passing EVA foam hand guards for level 3 if constructed correctly. But... although every person who makes flexible hand guards has their own small differences, the basic layout is the same. You aren't too far off on the shape, but the center ridge always points toward the top, not leaned over quite so far as yours presently shows so they would need to be modified before approval. As I mentioned, they would also need to be flexible, and a photo showing that would be required when you apply for Centurion like the one shown: With Centurion level, it's all about the details, even down to the size of the screw and rivet styles/sizes. While those are not always overtly noticeable, something such as the top of the hand guards would be. Since you already have some experience with EVA foam, you should be able to whip up a couple of pairs of these pretty quickly! As you know, EVA foam can get creases and dents over time, and if you can, I would use white instead of black for the base color.

Since you will be in the Spanish Garrison, I will get in touch with Carolina (tigressa) who is one of our Imperial Attaches there, She should send you a PM with the next few days and can help you out on a more local level, but we are here as well!

Glad to have you here on the FISD, sir! I assure you that you have come to the right place to learn all there is to know about purchasing and building armor. Lots of fine folks here willing and ready to offer advice and assist you every step of the way on your journey to becoming a Stormtrooper! As others have mentioned here, research is the key, but always feel free to ask any and all questions you may have. We are here to help!

Those actually turned out pretty well, but you may want to re-think the shape/design a bit to be more screen accurate. They definitely should be thinner, though, to conform with the shape of the top of your hand.

It's OK to have a small gap if you can't get them perfectly aligned, as the cover strips will cover any imperfections. The sanding that Glen mentioned is critical, though. Just try to make sure that the ridges (yellow lines) run as parallel with the cover strip edges as possible. You will need to trim down the V shaped point on the upper piece, otherwise this will seriously poke into your arm. (Pic 1). If it were me, I would trim down as seen in the second photo. You don't want any angles that are too sharp. Reference images of screen used armor.

You should have full access to that area, Daniel. It is located at the top of the page. Once you select it, you can choose from different areas to view. If you are looking for particular items, this may save you some time: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/

Looking SHARP, Jose!

Great start, Damien, and SO glad to see that you are posting pics!! If I could make a few suggestions for ya', they would be: 1. I see that the previous owner used the Velcro strapping that Anovos sends with the kit. I would seriously consider removing it and replacing it with the snap system. Velcro can (and will) wear out and lose it's adhesive properties over time with use. Snaps are a bit more expensive but will hold up over time. 2. You didn't mention if the previous owner was larger or smaller than you, so be careful with trimming. I am not a fan of return edges, but you may need to keep a few here and there if they were smaller. 3. When in doubt (even a little bit) always ask before cutting or gluing and post up a pic of the area in question. 4. Ask questions. (I can't stress this enough). We are here for you, so never be shy is you have any sort of issue. I will be following your build, and look forward to seeing your progress!

Looks great, Thomas!

For the windshield washer tubing, I went to an auto supply store and bought it "by the foot" from a roll. The circumference of the barrel is about 12 inches, and I added 14 rings, plus, you will need a section to go on the sides/top. I cut mine into actual lengths and used CA glue to hold each one on. (Hint: lightly sand and clean them thoroughly first for the best adhesion). The width of the tubing is about 1/4 inch. (Don't forget the blue wire on top).

GREAT choice on the AM armor, JR. My Stunt and HWT are AM, and I could not be happier. Years of trooping with no cracks, splits or yellowing.

I keep the ones that mean the most in a display box on the wall. I have 2 of most of them so that I can show the obverse/reverse of each, but I have a ton more that I just don't have the wall space to display.

Welcome to the TRUE home of shiny white armor, Jeff! You have been given some fantastic advice, but always remember that you can ask any and all questions you need or want to... it's what we are here for! While you are waiting for your kit, I would suggest getting your build supplies, soft parts, etc. together, that way when it arrives you are good to go. I have some links to some of my tutorials at the bottom of this post that will help, but always feel free to ask questions! If you let us know where you are located, we may be able to hook you up with someone on a local level that be of more help.

You can also use scrap strips of ABS glued behind the affected areas (blue line) to reinforce them. I noticed that you have another potential crack area as well on your shoulder bridge. Since that area has a sharp angle (it shouldn't have) you could eventually have issues. Better to prevent them before they start! On the side of the chest, it is the wide return edge that is causing that split. I have a tutorial here that will explain it a bit better. If you trim the backs of the knees, just don't go below the raised ridge at the top.

That will depend on if they are leather or a man-made material. Thomas. If they are leather, you will need to remove the finish with acetone (the stronger stuff, not like that found in nail polish remover) and lightly sanded so that the paint/dye will adhere. There are several companies that make these products, so it may take a bit of searching. If they are plastic, the finish will still have to be removed, but NOT with acetone, as it could melt them. This link may help. Whichever type you have, it is VERY important to let the dye dry completely between coats.

Hi ChriCat, and welcome to the FISD! When you say "carton", do you by chance mean that you already have your kit? If so, can I ask where you ordered it from? The reason I ask is that there are not actual blueprints, but there are many fantastic build threads here that you can follow, and many are specific to each maker. You will also need some supplies for your build, and here is a list that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-ot-tk-build/ We are here to help every step of the way, so don't be shy about asking questions!

I really do learn something new here every day... thanks for the heads-up!

When posting on the 501st site it's a little different. To insert a photo there using the Direct Link you need to click on the Img button, which will give you the image seen below, . There will be a flashing line between those. To post a pic, just right click on the flashing line and select Paste from the drop-down menu.

Good call, Arthur.

You continue to do an amazing job on the NL, Glen, and I'm glad to see that you will be around to keep it up!