justjoseph63

THIS IS NOT A BUILD THREAD... per se. Now that resin E-11 kits have all but disappeared, many are going to the 3D printed version. 3D printing has some advantages over resin builds, especially the fact that you can have MUCH more accurate finished product. This tutorial will show you how to get all those print lines out for a smooth-as-glass finish before assembly without as much work as you would think, especially if you are aiming for Centurion level approval as there can be no print lines on your blaster. I spent a total of 3-4 hours (not including drying time) on this project, so it's a lot faster that you may expect! This tutorial is for a classic E-11, but the process will work for any 3D printed weapon. For this purpose, I am using a kit made with Bryan's (trooper96) awesome files (link). Know in advance that it contains basically every single part of a real Sterling, down to the nuts and bolts... literally, and is in my opinion the most accurate ANH blaster kit out there. The fully functioning folding stock is a nice touch! When it comes time to put it together all those little parts can get confusing, so I suggest checking out Glen's @gmrhodes13 thread here. I couldn't have done this build without it! IMPORTANT! Printing the kit (or having it printed) in PETG will decrease the time you spend sanding dramatically compared to PLA. Trust me. You can also have it printed in resin, but that can be a costlier option. Another advantage to PETG is that it contains minimal "threads" as opposed to some PLA prints. NOTE: I did not include the power cylinders or Hengstler counter. I am using a real counter and making my own cylinders/assembly, but the same process would apply to the printed ones. More on that at a later date. LET'S GET STARTED! To begin, you will need the following supplies: 1. Filler Primer- This is a great option for filling super fine lines but requires a lot more fine sanding prior to use. I didn't use it on this build, but I have in the past. 2. Bondo Glazing & Spot putty- This is miracle stuff. Unlike regular Bondo which requires mixing, it is a paste that you can simply apply with your fingers or a craft stick. It fills fine to medium lines like magic, dries hard in less than 20-30 minutes or less and is SUPER easy to sand! 3. XTC 3D epoxy coating- Since this was the first time I had used this, it took some experimenting but the final results speak for themselves. It also provides some additional strength to the pieces. IMPORTANT: Mix this in very small batches. I can not stress this enough, as it sets up fast. Be SURE to read all instructions before using. 4 1" (2-3cm) Foam brushes- These are used with the XTC coating. You will need at least 5 or 6, as the epoxy only lasts a few minutes after mixing so you cannot re-use them. Link here. 5. Sandpaper- 80, 150 and 220 grit. 320 grit optional. (No photo... we all know what sandpaper looks like). 6. Spray paint- I suggest Krylon Fusion. You will need flat black, gloss black (for the grip). Silver is not needed if you plan on painting all areas black. 7. Super glue gel- Get the gel type. It doesn't run. 8. Super glue accelerator- Optional. 9. Mask (PPE)- I strongly suggest wearing a mask. Dust from sanding and the fumes from the XTC can be harmful. 10. Small plastic medicine cups- The ones that show the exact measurements work best. These are only good for ONE use for each batch of XTC epoxy and are good if you don't have a precise scale. Link here. 11. Wood craft sticks- For mixing the epoxy. Can be found at your local hobby store 1 2 3 4 6 7 8 10 11 I am not including photos of me sanding down the parts. That would be pointless, and I did NOT sand down the interior parts as they will not be seen. I started with 80 grit to get the larger print lines down. After that, 150 and then 220. There is no need to go crazy with the sanding, as it does NOT have to be perfectly smooth. For the T-tracks I used a foam sanding block wrapped in the various grits to get into the crevices. Like I mentioned PETG sands down FAST and EASY. Hints: Do NOT use any filler on the bottoms of the T-tracks, just sand them down fairly smooth. Sand the interiors of the holes using sandpaper wrapped around a pencil to remove burrs. Do this BEFORE gluing the 2 parts of the barrel together. The more you sand down the parts with the 220 the less filling you will have do. After wiping down ALL surfaces with a damp paper towel to remove residual dust and letting them dry, I applied the Bondo paste pretty liberally. Like I said, this stuff sands VERY easily so you can go fairly heavy when applying it Dry time is less than 30 minutes or so, but make SURE it's completely dry. It already looks/feels a lot smoother, but after that I went back to the 220 grit sandpaper. After final sanding: (Only some parts shown) Note original print lines Special notes- 1. In order to keep the details in the interior part of the grip, after the Bondo I used a dental pick to clean them out. When using the XTC later I went VERY lightly as not to fill them in. 2. The textured part of the grip was actually perfect and required no sanding. filler or epoxy coating so I left it as is. 1. 2. Due to the fact that most 3D printers cannot print long objects some parts will need to be glued prior to applying the paste/filler. The folding stock comes with 2 tabs which I glued to the U shaped stock part and then filled. NOTE: The arms have distinct curves- there is a left and right so make sure you have them on the correct side before gluing. Finished look Real Sterling The barrel jacket/exterior also comes in two parts. The print came with tabs to help line them up, but before making them one piece I added/glued in extra plastic tabs for increased strength. I suggest that you do this as well, but be SURE the added tabs are flexible and conform to the interior as seen in the last image below. Sanding the added tabs down before gluing will help with adhesion. The main body has not been epoxy coated or primed, just some Bondo paste where needed. Being a PETG print it came out ultra smooth with just sandpaper, and I didn't want the epoxy dripping through the holes and puddling. Be VERY careful when handling the assembled barrel. Until you get the T-tracks glued on it can be somewhat fragile at the joined seam, so use minimal pressure when sanding after you apply the Bondo. NOTE: Because of the added tabs and because it fits flush you will need to sand down the rear end of the interior barrel insert in order to get it to slide all the way in. DO NOT FORCE IT, or you can knock off the tabs. (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture beforehand). For even MORE added stability, the T-tracks should have a bit more glue on those seams when doing your final assembly. OK, time for the messy part, lol. HINT: Don't try to coat too many pieces at one time! After your first batch you will be able to tell how long you have before it starts to set up. As mentioned, the XTC epoxy filler dries fast. Really fast. You should figure on about 5 minutes (or less) of working time per batch, so plan accordingly. You can mix this by volume or weight. If you have a scale that measures grams that is what I would highly suggest using. The mixture needs to be precise. IMPORTANT: The fumes are harmful. Use a mask and apply/let dry outdoors. I suggest doing this in an area where there will be no dust/insects/debris that can stick to it while curing. After wiping all parts down with damp paper towels and letting them dry, I added the first coat of the XTC. Since I hadn't used this product before I went light, applying a very thin coat. You can see a big difference immediately! HINT: Always go in one direction when applying. If you apply it too fast you may get bubbles. If you go too heavy, you can end up with "puddling" of the epoxy as it not viscous and will settle quickly while drying in the flat areas/crevices. I wiped out as much as I could with the sponge brush immediately, and in the end they came out pretty nice. Again, GO LIGHT! After 4 hours I hit some of them again a bit heavier as needed. No need to sand between coats. Cure time depends on heat and humidity. Read the instructions for details. After drying... smooth as glass. Yes, there are a few miniscule bubbles, but they won't be noticeable and can be lightly sanded out. To ensure paint adhesion, you will need to sand everything down. I used the 220 grit. You can go with a finer grit but in looking at the finished product below I don't think you need to. When applying the XTC to the breach block I did not coat the numbers to keep them from being filled in. These pieces have been painted. A few notes on painting- To make sure you have proper adhesion for the glue, before painting apply blue tape over the areas where you will be attaching the various components. An easy way to do this is to put the piece where it goes on the body and draw a line around it with a thin Sharpie marker. When applying the tape, keep it about 1/8 inch INSIDE the lines. Although the paint may SEEM dry after a few hours, be aware that it takes a lot longer for it to completely CURE. I know it's tempting, but after final assemble try to let it sit in a dry place for 5-7 days for a much more durable finish before you run around the house with it yelling PEW PEW at your pets. Assembled product I am adding the scope rail, Hengstler counter and power cylinders later, but I wanted to show how smooth the parts came out. I forgot to cover this area before painting, so it will be sanded down prior to gluing on the power cylinder assembly. Finished! Final notes Yes, you will notice that some areas I have left silver/metallic. I may paint these black at a later date, but as seen below on these screen used blasters some were left "au naturale" (or the paint rubbed off during filming). It's a matter of choice. I will add some light weathering as soon as I attach all the various components. If you have any questions about anything included here (including assembly) always feel free to ask.

That's the first time I have heard about E-6000 not adhering to rubber hand guards. If you could post up a photo of the backs that may help solve the mystery or give us an idea of what you could use. I really don't recommend CA (super) glue or epoxy, as the adhesive can (and will) get brittle over time causing the bond to fail, especially on the edges. As James mentioned, I do sell flexible hand guards, but let's see if we can get the AP ones to work first. I sell the rubber gloves as well, and normally I only offer them with the guards but if you can't find any I can send you some at my cost (plus postage) for $8.00. Just PM me if needed. Flock-lined latex-free neoprene I have a tutorial here that may help.

You didn't mention what kind of rivet it was, but I have a thread here that will help:

Nice job so far, gentlemen! One thing that jumped out at me was the sides of the butt plate(s). As seen in the second image, they need to be angled. BUT, when doing this I wouldn't suggest making the corners sharp, but rather rounded out a tiny bit to keep them from snagging on your under suit. Without seeing a close up, it looks like you did a nice job on the curve where the plate meets the tab (first pic). When trimming that area, it's important not to leave a sharp angle as seen in the second image. This can (and usually does) lead to stress cracks, so again, round it out just a bit if it's not already. Also, you definitely want to leave the return edges at the bottom of the back and the top of the butt plate which keeps them from over-riding each other. What you have now looks perfect!

Hi Jeremy, and welcome to the FISD and happy to hear that we have a new Heavy Weapons Trooper in the making! Answering questions is what we do best, so always feel free to ask any you may have no matter how small. There is a ton of information here to sift through, but we are here to help every step of the way!

Excellent job on this, Luca! This will certainly come in handy for those aiming for Centurion, where those gaps need to be filled.

Once you get the hang of using imgur, adding photos will actually be pretty easy. We suggest posting as many as possible, especially when you have an issue or question as it will make it much easier for us to offer advice. I have a few tutorials under my avatar below that may help with your build, but always feel free to ask if you have a problem or query before cutting or gluing. As Glen says: "There are no silly questions. just silly mistakes". We are here for ya' every step of the way!

Hi Glen, and thank you for your 10th Centurion application! CRL and CENTURION Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Centurion. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Number 10.. WOW! Congrats on that momentous number, brother. One more and you'll have enough for a football team!

Hi Glen, and thank you for your 10th EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First, sorry about that Blackwing virus. Some Neosporin, a band-aid or two and a few days' rest and you should be right as rain! Shuffle along... nothing to see here. Centurion Requirements; In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper, be they living, dead, or somewhere in between. Maybe a manicure, but that's about it. Next up, Centurion # 10!

Excellent work on this, Glen! I'm definitely going to bookmark this one.

Awesome to hear, Eric! ATA makes a great kit and starting a build thread like this is always a fantastic idea. We welcome all questions (no matter how small) and look forward to seeing a ton of photos! If I could make a few suggestions: 1. Get all your build supplies in order. This will save you lots of time. 2. Take... your... time. I know you want to get it done and approved, but rushing leads to mistakes. Trust me on that one. 3. When in doubt, always ask before cutting/gluing. 4. Posting photos- I can't stress how important this is, especially if you have an issue. We are here for ya' every step of the way and we've all been-there-done-that, so never be shy about hitting us up for assistance... it's what we do best! There are a ton of references to use, and I have a list of tutorials under my avatar below that will help as well. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

The best one I've seen in a LONG time!

E-6000 should be fine, Tim. Just use it sparingly, and it may be a good idea to put a piece of tape over the other side to keep it from seeping out of the hole when you clamp it.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about making ABS paste, but if the new hole is in close proximity to the old one I would suggest patching it with a scrap piece of ABS. The reason being is that the area between them (red arrow) will be weaker and may split depending on how much pressure there is pushing out. You should be fine, but better safe than sorry.

If you have the time. patience and extra material (ABS) that is certainly an option. The overall look would be better, but there would be a substantial amount of work involved. You would need to add a reinforcement shim on the inside for strength, fill the seam with ABS paste and them smooth it down and polish it. I have seen this done before, and although it takes time and effort the results can be spectacular. If you decide to go this route, I would suggest starting a dedicated thread... that way you can post up lots of photos and get advice at every step. It would also serve as a reference for those in the future who have this issue and need help!

You can also gain some extra space (up to 3/4" or so) if needed on the biceps, forearms and tops of the thighs by removing all the return edges. Doing this is acceptable at all levels of approval and is screen accurate. Screen used armor examples One more trick is to add an extra wide interior cover strip first, leaving a gap that can be filled with a scrap ABS strip before gluing the outside cover strip on. This is just an example, but you get the idea. Always feel free to ask any more questions you have... we are here to help!

Other than the excessive wrinkling on the back drop , incredible job as usual, brother!

As you know, in many (if not most) cases there are always exceptions to the "norm", especially in OT armor (i.e. Mr. No Stripes). The teeth paint issue is one we have addressed for as long as I have been a D.O (almost 5 years) and since it is listed as a requirement for Basic approval we have to enforce it for EI. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Unlike the MEPD we don't choose a particular Trooper to copy for higher levels of approval, but rather the "ideal" look.

Hi Dwight! Thanks so much for your patience, and awesome job on this armor! After looking things over we have one small item we need you to jump on before we can finish up your review, sir. As per the CRL for Basic approval: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. As seen below, the paint on some of the teeth will need to be dialed back a bit to where it doesn't reach into the "gum" area. I call it the "Anovos overspray", and everyone (myself included) who has one of their buckets had the same exact issue. It should take you all of 10 minutes with some Q-tips, a toothpick and some (non acetone) paint remover, and I'm sure Justin will be happy to help if you need it! Reference images As soon as you get this done please post a few pics so that we can "move along", get that badge under your name and add another EI to the SCG!

As Glen mentioned, the "ideal" ear position has the top (round) part centered right below the rear of the trap, and in a perfect world it should cover the faceplate/cap seam completely. Note in the references how the bottom screw lines up with the rear angle of the trap. Sometimes the top 2 line up with that line, sometimes they are just close, which is fine and dandy. We aren't looking for perfection by any means, but it's important that the bottom should be angled back.

Just spoke with Dave... he is updating some items and will be posting up all his TK/TD accessories on here soon. Thanks. @Triple D!!!

There really isn't a manual, as armor is fitted to each individual. The CRL (Costume Reference Library on the 501st site (link) will help, and I also have a breakdown with screen caps that will help explain a lot of the nuances required for all levels of approval.

It may be tough to find someone right now with all that's going on, but you never know . Not to worry, though. The vast majority of us did our builds alone, even those with zero experience working with tools. That is why it's important to take..... your.... time, ask a million questions and post lots of photos. Consider your journey a marathon and not a sprint. I know you are (as we all were) eager to get out and troop, but rushing leads to mistakes. Trust me on that one. Have you registered there? Link

It takes time and patience to build a set of armor, but there are literally hundreds of tutorials here (and us of course) that will make it easier. ATA makes an AWESOME kit, so you are on the right track. Some areas have "armor parties" to assist folks with their builds, but Covid has unfortunately put a hold on those in many places. Once you choose your armorer and order your kit, I would suggest looking at some of the build threads (link here) to give you an idea of what to prepare for. You should also start collecting the supplies you will need. I have a thread on that here, and I have some tutorials that will help under my avatar below. Once BBB day arrives, I HIGHLY recommend starting your own build thread. That way, you can ask all the questions you have as well as post up lots of photos (we LOVE photos) of your progress and any issues you may come across. To paraphrase a line from Home Depot- "You can do it, we can will help"

I will be talking to him later this morning and get him on it.