justjoseph63

Kalani is correct about the E-6000. As an experiment, I tried several different products to attach latex hand guards to Nomex. All failed miserably except the "Trooper's best friend"... good ol' E-6000. 30+ troops and still going going strong, with no separation.

Unless your biceps and thighs are really loose, (they shouldn't be) I would hold off on using the foam for these. They should fit comfortably, but not too tight, allowing for a good range of movement. The place that I and many others use it is behind the front of the calves to keep them from shifting sideways, but keep it below the sniper knee plate, where it can't be seen. A piece 1 1/2 or 2 inches wide, 1 inch thick, and 8 to 10 inches long attached with Velcro should do the trick.

Just a heads-up on the magnets.. if you go with the 3 mm x 20 mm as on your list, a total of 20 should suffice. Anything thinner than that and you will need to double up. A few more hints.. 1. When separating them, slide them apart. They can break a fingernail. 2. Wrap each one in blue painter's tape. Otherwise, they can scratch your armor. 3. Try to keep the separated when not in use. These things are SUPER strong, and not easy to pry apart. 4. Try not to drop them on a hard surface, as they can shatter.

You are wise to start getting your supplies ready early, Ben. Nothing worse than having to stop in the middle of things to go to a store! In the U.S., there are 2 places you can purchase really inexpensive supplies such as Dremel type tools (with attachments), painter's tape, clamps of all sizes, sanding blocks, razor knife, blades etc. They are Harbor freight (7 in Utah: http://www.harborfreight.com/storelocator/location/map?lat=28.0561610000&lng=-81.7780310000&change=1&radius=100&state_input=fl) and Northern Tool: http://www.northerntool.com/ Don't let the inexpensive prices fool you. I have several tools from them that I use in my remodeling business that have held up great for years. I'm not sure what supplies AP sends with their kit, but hopefully someone can provide that info. for you. I personally don't know of any maker that supplies snaps with their kit, but if they don't, just be sure NOT to buy them at Wal-Mart. Trust me on this.... I did that to save a few bucks and ended up having to replace every single one. Stick with a known brand, such as Tandy.

The top strap could be set too high on the pack, causing it to push it forward as it can't wrap around correctly.

Sounds as if that may be the problem, Andrew. The placement of where you have the straps attached on the top could very well be pushing it forward. If you could post a photo of this, that would help.

Only 2 free ones left, Brian... You'd better get going!!

In the mail today, sir!

For the main "radio" box, I would stick with the photo storage box that Tony has in his HWT pack build thread. Yes, it is cardboard, but to make it more sturdy I hit all the edges with electrical tape before painting it. It really is the ideal size, and it has held up great with no problems after dozens and dozens of troops, (and getting banged around a lot, LOL). You can find them at Michael's craft store, but you will have to ask where they are. For some reason, they hide them out of the way.

WOW! HWTs are coming out of the woodwork... and I'm glad to see it!! I would not recommend Plasti-Dipping the packs, though. I actually tried it on one of the spare storage containers after priming and painting it just for a laugh.. (I like to experiment).. It really didn't make that much of a difference, to be honest, and may affect your HWT approval. Have a blast on your build(s), and be sure to post up some pics!!

Hi Luis! Great looking armor from the front, but unfortunately you are missing quite a few photos. For a complete list of required pics, go to this thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22604-expert-infantry-application-photo-checklist/.

Actually, I believe it's been over a year since the new ones were approved. Perhaps Tony or Andrew could weigh in on this.

Actually, they have updated them, Ron, so you should be good to go. Just to make sure, I would post some photos of the pieces in question just to make sure. For posting pics, I am not sure how to do that from an Android, but you could always open up a free Photobucket account. Once you download the pics to that it's pretty easy. If you decide to go that route, just PM me and I can explain the details.

Patches are HERE!! -----------

Outstanding job. Sarah! This should be an easy pass. Must say that I love the Shakespeare shot...Alas, poor Yorick! I knew him, Horatio, a fellow of infinite jest, of most excellent fancy. He hath bore me on his back a thousand times, and now how abhorr'd in my imagination it is!

So it looks as if you have a major decision to make, Sebastian. You can purchase this armor, and take a (slim) chance on getting a 501st approval, or choose one of the vetted makers on here. Here is the lowdown: 1. Choose a "vetted" armorer, build it to specs, get approved by the 501st, and get Trooping with your local Garrison (or Squad). (Not as hard as you would think, especially with our help); 2. Go with an eBay seller and take your chances. (Not good, but not impossible). Like Brian said, FX armor is pretty much obsolete. There are many out there who are still rocking it, but It is not approvable at the higher levels, (EIB and Centurion) which I hope you will be aiming for.

There are a few Troopers who have made their own, but considering the time, cost of materials, and the fact that most ABS hand guards are curved (making it difficult if not impossible to get a proper mold), it is usually less expensive to purchase them. Yes, I sell hand guards, but I also took the time to sculpt them from scratch, make the molds, get them approved and cast them in a 3 step process. Like Tony mentioned, recasting is highly frowned upon, unless you get the permission of the original creator.

Your best bet for that would probably be to create an account and introduce yourself at the Sith Lord Detachment: http://forum.501stsithlords.com/. There may be a few here who also have that costume, but you can definitely get a lot more specific info. there.

Glad to see you got the perfect information from Tony, John, and GREAT to hear that you are headed for Centurion level! I noticed that your TK # and title (501st Stormtrooper) are not listed below your avatar photo. It's easy to do... just go here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/ to link your 501st profile.

"A person I know, found out I got this kit. This person asked me if he could copy the parts before I assembled it, so he could make his own kit. <br> I unfortunately had to tell him, "absolutely hell no". He was puzzled at my response, so I explained it to him or at least tried to explain. Not really sure if I got through to him. I have alot of respect for the person or persons who created this armor. If I allowed someone to copy my armor, I think I would not only be helping in a theft, but I would be totally disrespecting the artist or artists. I'm not going to have a part in that." Well said, Ron, and well done. Even though you haven't completed your armor yet, and you are already on the right track to becoming a terrific member of the 501st family, and the kind of Trooper we look forward to having in the ranks!!

Looking great, Randy!!!! When you make Centurion, you will be only one of 4 in the Legion! Excellent job on weathering that pack... not too much not too little.

Chest For 501st approval: Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. A white flexible U shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.

Excellent point, Kalani. I have heard from several folks recently that the Anovos under suits have left black/dark blue marks on their armor. Make sure that the material is 100% man-made.

So the Lego set contains micro-macrobinoculars?

Mark is absolutely correct, Ron. ROTJ is the only armor that not only has it, but requires it. http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rotj It is not permitted on other types, such as ANH or ESB.