justjoseph63

You can (and should) cut the tops of the thighs down, Chris. They can pretty much be trimmed down as needed for a correct fit. I always suggest removing all return edges in the following areas as seen in the screen used armor below. BUT... do a test fit first BEFORE gluing anything together. If not, the pieces will be loose afterward and may not fit correctly. There is a term we call "armor bite", which means that the return edges rub, chafe or pinch you while suited up. Better to to be proactive than reactive to prevent this. I hope you are thinking about aiming for Centurion, and removing materials in these areas will not affect approval at any level. Thigh tops- Return edge has been completely removed. Note that there is also none in the "groin" area, which can (and will) lead to chafing. When cutting these down, just follow the same lines /shape of the existing top. Elbow openings- Since you will spend a lot of time holding your E-11, your arms will be bent in. Losing the return edge here will stop any discomfort. Biceps- No one sees the tops anyway, so why not be more comfortable! Shoulder bells- Having a return edge on the bottoms adds to a "thicker" look, but this can also cause them to ride out and leave a large gap between the bells and chest/back plates. (Not a desired effect). You can trim most (or all) of it off if needed. Wrist openings- You should trim this off 100%, (especially in the "hump" area I highlighted). Keep asking as many questions as you like, sir. We are here to help!

Thank you, Marcel! We will be with you shortly, sir!

Perfect! Thanks, and I will be with you shortly, sir!

I would steer clear of using the Zap a Gap for a few reasons,, Aaron. I used it in a few areas on my first build, and found that it can get brittle over time and things can pop apart (like my calves). If it drips on your armor, it is danged near impossible to get off without sanding, buffing and then polishing. Also, once you glue something together, it's a done deal... (You really lucked out in this case with the ab plates). Yes, it takes more time to use E-6000 and there is clamping involved, but there is a good reason we use it. It has some flexibility and can actually be removed in many cases if you make a mistake.

You are good to go, sir.

MUCH better!

Do you have any close-up photos of the kit from the mfr, Matt? This line from their FB page leads me to believe it may be a recast: Derived from hand sculpts, 3D prints and scans of replica armor,

Fantastic to hear that you are aiming for EI (and then hopefully Centurion) Aaron! Would they pass? Yes. There is not a specific rule in the CRL stating that they have to be perfect, as long as you have the one ear bump painted. Would it be suggested that you make it look a bit better? Definitely. The higher levels are all about getting as close to screen accuracy as possible, and if you take a look at the reference pics below they show that the lines are a lot tighter. My advice at this point would be as follows: 1. Remove all the black from the edges and paint over the black ear bump(s) with gray. 2. Using blue painters tape, (not regular masking tape) mask off the edges as seen in photo 1, and make sure the edges are firmly pressed down. You may have to remove the ear screws for this. 3. Paint the edges black, and if the paint covers well wait 5 minutes (no more) and remove the tape. 4. Wait an hour or two for the paint to set. 5.. Using a high quality brush, carefully paint in the gray as needed. (It's easier to get a straight line on the gray than paint a thin black line). 6. Repaint the ear bump black. Hope this helps! Reference images

After seeing this, I think it's time for a "Pimp my bin" thread! Awesome job, brother!

That is the same bin I use, and I LOVE it! It has the tray for all the small bits and tons of room for decals and such. I added a sheet of black craft foam glued to a sheet of display board inside the lid to display some of my patches and stuff.

Yes sir. The files were free, but I had to pay to get them printed. Took me about 6 solid hours of sanding to get those danged print lines out though. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43782-tk-helmet-interior-gear-3d-printed/?tab=comments#comment-588888

We need 1 more from you, Jim. Please add a pic of the back of the TD showing the screws. Thanks!

Hi Arthur, and thank you for your SECOND EI application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Hero Expert Infantry. On behalf of Tony, Dan and myself, congratulations!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. First, thanks for addressing the belt, ab button plate and TD issues so quickly! As with your last build, you have really done a fantastic job on this, sir. There are just a few small items to add that will help you look you best. There is some paint on the bottoms of the teeth openings which should be removed. With your build expertise, this should be an easy fix! Reference images Centurion Suggestions: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Only one quick thing to add here, Arthur. They are really close, but your drop boxes will need to be adjusted to line up with the edge of the ABS ammo belt a bit better. A small dab of E-6000 on the back of the strap will hold those in the proper position. Reference image Other than that, another incredible job, brother, and I know you will continue to be a shining example to to the rest of the HK Garrison! (See you at Centurion soon)!

Welcome, and GREAT to hear that you are aiming for Centurion! Here are some answers that may help, but always feel free to ask as many questions as you like! 1. "What I'm finding a bit difficult is if level 3 certification is something that happens on top of level 1 or 2, or if there are times when I skip certain items in the level 1 and 2 checklists and just jump to level 3." Always build to level 3. 2. "I should have all of the proper materials except for the "Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips." I believe AP's hovi tips are good to go, as long as the inside is white and the screens are correct. If you can post a close-up pic we can let you know. 3. S-trim: https://trooperbay.com/trooper-helmet-s-neck-trim 4. "Just one for now; Level 3 certification says that "Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details)", and from the kit I ordered, it looks like the decals do just that, however, after looking at a few threads of those going for Centurion status using the AP kit, they all seemed to hand paint them. My question is "Are the decals for this kit adequate? or do I need different decals? or should I just hand paint it?" The decals that you have will do just fine for all levels. You will need to paint the ear bars/teeth yourself, though. If you have the time and talent, I always suggest painting everything yourself, though. If you decide to do that we can offer some tips! It looks as if all the hardware for the helmet assembly is correct, and since the eyes, teeth and ears are already trimmed you are way ahead of the game. Going over the CRLs is a fantastic idea, but I would also highly recommend looking over some the the approved Centurion submissions in the Advanced Tactics forum. You can really learn a lot about what we look for there. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/ Bets of luck on your build, and as mentioned, ask lots of questions and be sure to add as many detailed photos as you can.

Actually it's not cut out. Due to the shape (indentation) of the bottom back of the helmet it fits snugly in there. There is a split along the length of it that allows you to tuck the wires in. As for the interior, a member offered the 3D files for that here a while back. I put the fans in the round parts that are next to the ears, but due to the small openings in them you don't get much circulation, sad to say, so this one is for winter trooping only, lol.

Perfect!

That is actually not padding, but is 1 inch flexible black ribbed tubing. (available at Lowe's) and adds a cleaner look while also covering wires and such. I normally use Plasti-dip in my helmets, but you can also use craft foam like I did on my Hero bucket. (I added a few extras, though, modeled after a "real" helmet). I really have to get a life, lol. ----------

Great to hear! While waiting for you armor, I recommend heading to Joanne's fabrics (or something similar) and picking up some 1 inch thick sheets of foam to line your bin sides/bottom with. Bins get knocked around a lot, and this will protect your armor from getting banged all to heck during transport. Just cut them to size and use a heavy-duty spray adhesive to hold them in place.

For drilling holes in ABS, I suggest a 5/32 size bit. For the nylon/elastic strapping, I have found a soldering/wood burning iron like this one https://www.lowes.com/pd/Weller-Electric-15-Piece-Wood-Burning-Kit/3402984 works great. It seals the edges of the holes preventing fraying. Here is a tutorial that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/

Looking good, Craig! Studying the build threads is a great idea, and asking questions with photos attached is even better. If I can put in my 2 cents worth on the undersuit, I would go with the 2 piece. Occasionally on a troop "nature calls", and I have found it easy to answer that call with a separate shirt/pants, (without going into too much detail). There are some pretty inexpensive options on Amazon: Shirt: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Compression-Shirts-Baselayer-Tights/dp/B01JOCHHX2/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1536390505&sr=8-30&keywords=mens+black+compression+shirt+black Pants: https://www.amazon.com/saraca-core-Teenage-Compression-Leggings/dp/B077ZYY6NN/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1536390572&sr=8-7&keywords=mens+black+compression+pants+black As for the fans, Tony has an awesome selection of options here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35994-fs-ukswraths-cooling-fan-kits/

One of us will be with you shortly, brother. You are making our jobs too easy, lol!

There are probably a few on here that also have BF costumes, but you might want to ask over at the Bounty Hunter's Guild as well. http://thebhg.net/

Outstanding, Arthur.. nice job on those... (and QUICK)!

The return edges are the ridges that are bent in (photo 1) at the tops and bottoms of the forearms, biceps, calves and thighs,and other areas. The cover strips are for the sides (seams). Note that the return edges can be removed (before fitting/gluing) in the following areas: Tops of the biceps, completely at the bottom of the forearm opening and "scoop" at the top (photo 2) and the tops of the thighs. Also note that the cover strips in the thighs do not extend past the ridge at the bottoms (photos 3 and 4). Same with the ridges on the back of the calf tops (4th photo).

Actually, you can remove them entirely if you like, Dave, as you mentioned they are not seen. In many places the return edge looks nice but can be impractical and can tend to dig in to you ("armor bite") while wearing them. Note on the screen used ones below that it has been removed from the tops and bottoms of the bicep as well as the top of the forearm. I personally left some return edge on the bottom of the bicep and the back top of the forearm for the thicker look, but removed it all from the "scoop" (photo 3), as again, this will dig into you, especially since most the time your arm will be bent carrying your E-11. I recommend removing all the tops from the thighs as well for the same reason, but in doing so don't forget to remove the edge before fitting/gluing them. Reference images Reference image