justjoseph63

Outstanding work, Glen! Once we get things "set in stone" the caps that show the acceptable should be posted in the TKC reference area. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/15-tk-commander-reference/ I also think a lot of the odd differences have to do with how many people actually work on the designs of these games... (over 1000 for Grand theft auto).

Some armorers (like Anovos) send them in pre-cut widths. Most makers just send you a sheet of ABS and you cut them to the required widths.

The "standard" for cover strips is 15mm wide for the biceps and forearms, 20 mm for the thighs (front and back) and the front of the calves. The rear calf closure is 25 m.

Agreed 100%. My main armor is AM, and it is built like a tank. 3 years and countless troops with no cracks or yellowing. I am 5'11 / 155 and although I had to do some serious trimming it fits like a glove. Great customer service as well!

DANG you are quick, lol!

SUPER nice work on this armor, Arthur! Two quick things that jump out are that your TD screws will need to be replaced with the "pan head (flat top) type and your TD plate should face more upward, with the O on the top. Also, please show a back of the belt shot with a close up of the fasteners. Thanks! Pan head screws Reference image Reference image

Yes sir, brother. They need to be the "pan head" (flat) as seen in the pics below. Also, as Tony mentioned you are SOOOOOO CLOSE! Please submit the pics of the corrected screws and the ones Tony requested and you will be in good shape! Pan head screws Reference image

Hi Christopher, and thank you for your EIB application for HWT... let's dive right in, shall we? CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All submission photos are present, Trooper, and your armor displays all the elements required for your SECOND Level 2 Badge. Congratulations and welcome to Expert Infantry.... again!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by us and your fellow Troopers. Suggestions made here are to improve the overall look of your armor. If these suggestions would effect an application they will be mentioned in the below sections. Just a few notes on this, brother, and as mentioned before, it's GREAT to see another HWT headed for level 3! (We are a very small club, but growing). I realize that you attained Centurion level with this armor as an ANH Stunt,, but there are a few issues that were noticed on your new submission. The paint on your vocoder could use some cleaning up. Just remove the extra paint from the edges on the right side and you will be golden! Reference image Your belt needs to be raised to where it covers at least the bottom of your large ab button plate. This can be seen in the screen cap below. Reference image Your left shin was absolutely spot-on in your ANH-S Centurion app, (photo one) but it seems to have shifted a bit and the needs to lined up more with your thigh. Photo 1 Reference image You might want adjust one of your pack straps to make it sit straighter on your back as seen in the game images and CRL photo. Although not a deal breaker by any means, your top leather ammo pack could be straightened out, also as seen in both the game and the CRL. Reference images Your 4 button ab plate could definitely use some trimming.. easy fix!: Reference image Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. The gap in you ab/kidney connection on the right hand side will need to be eliminated. Tightening up the strapping would fix that pretty quickly. Reference image Please center the sniper knee plate and reduce the gap between that and the actual calf. It should be pretty straightforward to do and will add to the look of this great build! Reference images It may be the angle of the photo, but it appears that the interiors of your hovi-mic tips are black. Hitting the insides (and maybe the outside edges if you feel like it) with a bit of white paint would get them to where they need to be. Reference image That is an amazing pack, but as stated in the CRL it will need some weathering on the entire thing, and not just the center canister. You don't have to go overboard, but some silver or grey paint for accents (battle wear) will make it look a lot better. CRL: "Backpack is scuffed and lightly battle worn, but not heavily weathered or dirty". Thanks again, and I look forward to seeing you at HWT Centurion with this armor!

Welcome to the home of shiny white armor, Ely! Great to hear that you are ready to "take the plunge" on purchasing your kit, and you have come to the right place for all things TK related. As Jim mentioned, AM is a great set of armor and you should be able to trim that as necessary to get your basic approval. When gluing your parts together, I highly recommend the product that most of us use which is E-6000. It gives you a solid set of armor, but can be removed if you ever need to trim down certain parts. After you order your kit, I would recommend a few things.. 1. Check out some of the build threads in this section: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/, especially those related to the armorer you are using. For instance, if you decide to go with AM, look for that in the title. Example: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10434-pandatroopers-am-build-threadam/ 2. While waiting, I suggest getting all the necessary supplies you will need so that you have them on hand when BBB (Big Brown Box) day arrives. I have a thread here that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ 3. Start your own build thread. This way, you can post photos of your progress (show off your build) and ask questions in the same area. This site can seem a little overwhelming with all the information that is available, but know that we are here to help every step of the way, and don't be shy about asking all the questions you need to. (It's kinda' what we do here). Best of luck on your white armor journey!

Hi Arthur, welcome back and thank you for your Centurion application, let's get going on this, sir! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All submission photos are present. Your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Centurion so congratulations Trooper!  Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Thank you for taking care of those issues..., you have done a great job on this build, brother. and nothing more to add. Now get out there and be proud to be the first TKC Centurion in the Hong Kong Garrison!

Hi Jeff! Could you do me a quick favor and post up a pic showing the screws on the bottoms of the ears? It's probably the angle of the photo, but it looks as if that they are round or pan-head style instead of the flat V head as seen on the top ones. I looked at the ones in your EI app photo but the pic is a bit fuzzy. If they need to be changed, just let me know and I will mail you a set no charge.

Great to hear that you are headed for Centurion, Brendon! Don't worry about "messing things up", just post any questions you have (or better yet PHOTOS) and we will be more than happy to answer your inquiries. Building a set of TK armor will take some time, (Helpful hint: DON'T RUSH IT). Think of it more as a marathon than a sprint with hundreds of TKs helping you along. We will get ya' there.

LOVE that attitude, Jose!! We will have you out there making the Star Garrison proud as a Centurion before you know it!

Hi again, Jose, and thank you for your both your patience and your ANH-Stunt EI application. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted, and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. On behalf of the D.O. Staff, congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. First, thank you for all the hard work in fixing the issues that have been discussed! For the higher levels, it's all about looking your best and getting a close as you can to screen accuracy... here are a few other items that will help you do that, so let's dive right in! 1. The tears on your helmet would look a lot better if extended to the inside edges of the indentation. Reference image 2. Your vocoder looks good, but a bit of black paint and a "filbert" style brush would clean up the edges and make it look even better! Reference image 3. The tops of your shoulder bells should be touching (or very close to) your shoulder bridge. I have some ideas for achieving this in the section below for you. Reference image 4. For a much better look, your canvas belt could stand to be raised quite a bit in the back. The front part meets the requirements for level 3 by touching the bottom of the center ab button plate, but that could come up more as well and still be acceptable for Centurion. Reference image 5. Some of the buttons on your ab plates could be a bit smaller and more uniform in size. Removing the paint and cleaning them up would take some time but would be well worth the effort and improve the look immensely. Reference image 6. You have your TD plate a little too far toward the front. The "O" should basically face straight up. I noticed that it touches the ends of your clips on the bottom, so just trimming the ends off of those and repositioning them should do the trick. Trimming a small amount from the bottom of the plate would help as well. Reference images Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. 1. Your shoulder bells should be brought in a lot closer to your chest/back plates. I noticed that you have quite a bit of return edge on the bottoms in some areas, all of which can be removed. You may also want to consider a hot water bath to widen/reshape them to conform to your biceps and ride a lot closer in both the front and back. CRL: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates Reference images We realize that not everyone can achieve the "perfect gap" as seen above, but with a bit of work I feel confident that you can get a lot closer. 2. Super nice job on sizing those shims for your ab/kidney connection! The gaps are spot-on, but you will need to use some ABS paste on the right side (like you did on the left) to cover the seam. CRL: A single visible seam line is present 3. The ear bars should only have one bump painted black. Easy fix! CRL: Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black Reference image Overall a really nice job, brother. I am hoping you can get on these issues like you did the previous ones so that we can get you to Centurion!

Hi all! During the recent changeover to the new server, the program for issuing certificates for EI and Centurion was affected. Mathias has worked like a madman to get this resolved and has come through like a hero! If you requested one during or since the 1st of August, I am working to get those issued. We appreciate your patience, and if there are any problems, just PM me. Thanks! Joseph

Moved

Hi Arthur! Welcome thank you for your patience and EIB application. Let's get started, sir! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All submission photos have been posted and we have great news, your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Outstanding job on this set of TM armor, Arthur! Your attention to detail is obvious, and you should certainly be proud of the work you have done. Just a few minor suggestions (while not required for Centurion, these would add to your look). 1. Your cloth ammo belt could use a bit of weathering as stated in the CRL: "The belt material is lightly aged (battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD)". 2. You might want to consider bringing your drop boxes in a little closer to your ABS ammo belt. Centurion Suggestions: Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EI, items pertaining to level 3 might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all we can from what is seen but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. The only thing I can see is that you need to paint the rivets on your belt white, sir. As stated in the CRL: "The belt proper shall have (8 total) white rivets" Other than that, nothing to add here! Again, spectacular job on this, Trooper, and I hope to see your level 3 submission soon!

Nice looking armor, Marcel! We will be with you shortly, but before we can proceed you will need to change out the screws on your TD as Daniel mentioned. The ones you currently have are round head, and they need to be pan-head (flat) as per the CRL for level 2. Reference image Also, please move your TD plate back. As stated in the CRL, "The white control panel faces upward...". Thanks, and as soon as you can get those items sorted we will get you to level 3, brother! Reference image

Actually, most kits are sold with the helmet unassembled so that should not be a problem, Ron.

All that shows up right now is a link to the imgur pics. To be honest, you may not get many responses if you post this way. I would recommend this: 1. Open your imgur "library" showing all your photos. 2. Choose which one you want to post by left clicking on the center of it. 3. A box (including the photo) will pop up with 6 options on the right. 4. LEFT click on the second one down, "Direct Link" 5. Go to the page you want to post it on. 6. LEFT click, then choose Paste from the dropdown menu. Done! It will become second nature after a few times of doing it. If you have any issues (like the thigh area you mentioned) posting (detailed) photos will help immensely so that we can give the advice you need. Be sure to ask any questions you may have.. we are here to help!

Sean is spot on there, Brendon. Align the bottom of the kidney to the bottom corner of the ab plate (bottom red arrow) and see where you are. You have a LOT of the shoulder bridge resting on the back plate, and moving this as shown with the top red arrow will give you some room to drop that back plate. You can (and should) remove all the return edges on the side of the ab and kidney as shown with the blue lines. Once you drop that back and bring the sides in, post up some updated pics and we can go from there. NOTE: the ab/kidney connection does not have to be touching for basic approval, but it has to be less than 1/2 inch for EI and no gap at all for Centurion.

Hi again, Jose! Thanks for taking care of the other issues but your ears still need a bit of work, brother. Here is what should be done, along with a few suggestions so that we can get you to EI! 1. The bottoms are still too thick and still need to be trimmed more, (front and back). As mentioned before, you can still see the slight indentation line from the maker as to where they should be cut to, which is a lot thinner than where they are now. The reference images below should give you a good idea of how thick they should be. Reference images 2. In addition to the trimming mentioned above, the right one is mounted too far back and high, so it will need to be brought down and forward a bit as well (first photo). The positioning of the top of the left one is good, but the bottom could be moved back a bit and some trimming would help that side as well. Note the trimming on the bottom of the ear in the reference image below. The bottom of your right ear is good, but the left one should match for symmetry. Reference image It shouldn't take that long to grab your Dremel and and a drill to get these to the perfect position... I'm confident that you will do a great job and looking forward to seeing the results!

Hi Nicole, and great job on that ATA armor! One of us will be with you shortly, but before we can proceed we need a few small favors from ya'. Please add the required full back photo to your post above. Since you will have to suit up for this, I would suggest replacing the main photo with one reflecting the following recommended issues (all should be straightforward easy fixes) below in photo 1. Also, we will need you to move the ears on your bucket back a bit. (Photo 2). Although this issue is not specifically listed in the CRL, it is screen accurate and should only take a few minutes to adjust. Levels 2 and 3 are all about going above and beyond, and you are almost there, Trooper! There are a few other small issues, but those can be addressed later. SUPER job on those ab/kidney connections and that TD! I have every confidence that you will do a great job on these small issues, and I look forward to seeing that EI badge below your name soon. Photo 1 1. Biceps should sit at the same level 2. forearm can be lowered, reducing that gap. 3. Belt needs to sit a bit higher, covering the bottom of the large ab-button box. This is a requirement for L3, which I am sure you will be aiming for! Photo 2 Reference image

I believe what you are looking at is the black elastic band that is attached to the bell that holds the bicep in place.

As Jim mentioned, I would definitely cut out a bit more in the area shown below. This will improve your mobility, and since we tend to spend most of the time with our arms bent in holding an E-11 it will help eliminate "armor bite" in that area. If you have larger biceps, you can definitely trim the return edges off of those pieces as needed as seen in the screen used ones in the second photo. As for the cod, yes, that area can be a bit thin, but I would highly suggest removing all the return edges from the bottom. The reason being (without getting too delicate) is that area can (and will) cause chafing in that area if you leave too much on, if you know what I mean. The third pic shows how much you can remove (although the edges should be sanded down smooth) but also shows a split, which can be prevented with reinforcing around the inside edges.