TK bondservnt

I think you've solved the problem on many levels by moving the adjustment line down to a lower part. cutting the bottom of the kidney plate, and perhaps even a little off the butt plate would solve your problem in a great way. also it's possible to raise the backplate up a little bit. by putting the shoulder bridges and elastic straps closer together at the top of your shoulders. making the distance from the back plate to the chest plate at the top of the shoulder closer together. on some fittings in the movie suits the tops of the shoulders are almost touching.

nobody can get permission. in my opinion the property belong to brian muir, Liz moore and lucasfilm. personally I believe that the idea of " permission" is a little out of whack around the star wars hobby. last time I looked there are 3 companies who have paid the license fees to make products currently. rubies.= we hate this armor generally. EFX collectables. cast form original. Anovos. planned cast from original... " can't wait to see this!" no other person or company has rights from lucasfilm to make and sell armor or costume props. not even our favorite RS Props has PERMISSION. if we were talking about royalty free that would be a different story... but our entire hobby here is doing this without lucas permission. george is just being nice to us... and letting us play around with his toys. remember this is all george lucas personal property. TE is a recast. steps down off soapbox.

fully closed just means that you have no visible gap. you don't have to glue them together. having the thighs glued together just makes the whole costume hard to put on. mine are not glued. there are lot's of little aspects to the screen used methods that don't work for some of us. as long as the parts look good on the outside it should be fine, all the way up to centurion. if the parts slightly overlap, that's not really a problem, actually on my AP kit my thighs and my shins overlap about 1/2" for the shins, and about an inch or so on the thighs. the whole key in my opinion is to make the parts fit you without looking too large. they don't have to be tight... just not too big.

I liike locktite pro

interesting... the elastic panel looks a little off... TKboots is back up and running... if you're interested in a more accurate pair.

long armed people usually don't need that connection. I really like the light in those photos!

end cap and front sight are not supposed to be textured. also the grip sleeve is also supposed to be smooth. nice job so far.

nice work! I use brass tubes for my main body and also use the same axle caps for mine! some photos are missing from the thread!

I am interested in them too!

AWESOME WORK! :smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013: :smiley-sw013:

Love that real thing man!

I use a 7/16 wood bore bit with a 1/8 pilot hole. image shows 1" http://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/1PMN6_AS02.JPG then you follow up with a cone stone bit on a dremel --------- sand it up with some paper by hand and you'll get smooth easy holes in a PVC pipe. or you can order a pipe from me ------

I have a scope and counter I'd sell if you need a set for casting up. PM me if you're interested in a really rare and good set. nice job of making up the receiver!

ok here's what I did for a dual EIB with both ANH and ESB represented 2 helmets ANH style helmet with grey frown and anh decals. ESB helmet with black frown, bluegrey decals, sticker tubestripes slightly different eye trimming. 2 belts one anh belt with holster attached with tan straps on the left side, ESB belt with no holes, holster on right looped over belt 2 holsters one with tan straps attached to belt on left side, one with black loops slipped over belt on right side 2 blasters one with power cells, counter box and m38 scope, one without counter box or power cells 2 sets of handguards latex rubber handguards, one set of clamshell plastic handplates, sewn onto silk gloves. 2 sets of gloves one set of rubber gloves with rubber plates, one set with plastic clamshell plates shoulder straps for anh have white elastic bands and "float" and for ESB I add velcro and they are "attached" at the back with no white elastic band. I actually use the same suit of armor as a basis for this style of doing both film styles... just the addition of the other parts to complete the dual EIB format. for ROTJ there are so many differences that you have to have a completely different set of armor. the assembly for ROTJ armor is vastly different. overlap assembly of all parts, rubber gasket trim around all the edges of the torso, different helmet design different T det design, different boots and blaster. after I do some more mods to my armor I'll be applying for my ANH stunt EIB. I need to replace my sniper knee, and make new sidegap shims.

wow! there are several reasons why I think the bapty is a great style or type of blaster. but my point in this thread has been to represent the proper sterling details. a proper sterling build should have the details of the clip end intact. the non firing versions made by bapty were not, in my opinion a representation of the way a blaster should look across the board. the firing versions are much different than the version shown above in the photos. in fact you opened my understanding quite a bit with that photo series. the goal in my opinion is to have 3 versions of the e-11 1 the bapty non firing version 2 the bapty firing hero version 3 a real sterling so in the fabrication of a blaster the clip end is one of the many features that show what type of blaster we're looking at. I for one like to have a fully sterling representation in my builds, with clip end and logos intact. for a replica version of any of the above 3 there are several differences that could be added. thanks for that photo series... it was great education!

the magazine is not supposed to be cut off the end. if you do that you'll lose the clip lock. just because you can find a photo does not always mean that the information in the photo is correct. the triangle divot is from an incorrect assembly. you need the clip lock to be present for the magazine to not wobble. and you need the inner lips of the mag, and there is a small indent on the end of the magazine near the feed lips that allows the magazine to lock into the magwell. the photo above is missing 3 important parts. 1 the end plate with the word off 2 the clip lock 3 the ejector see how I've filled in the resin triangle divot, and added the clip lock and that the ejector is present at the rear of the assembly.. the original resin parts do not include those added parts that I had to cast and make up from the originals. the whole concept is that the original clips were not cut the way shown in the above photos. that photo is not from an actual screen used blaster. it's a fan made replica with mistakes. without the feed lips and the clip lock intact you won't be able to fit the magazine into the well. the photo below shows my process of casting parts to correct the errors in a resin clip. if you do it like the shortened clip that I did, you'll be able to insert and lock and extract the magazine like the originals keep in mind that the end plate has the word Off upside down and the arrow points to the front of the blaster if you just lop of the end you will be very unhappy with the result. this photo shows the correct details of a properly assembled resin replica clip. 1 end plate with ball bearing lock and arrow with word off 2 clip retaining lock 3 ejector

yep.. but that was before his thread... the "exclusive" part is that now the bapty blaster has one of the scopes I used to own on it! insert laugh here. ok can we all settle down and let walt have his thread back?

are your tips sculpted or cfo? enquiring minds want to know.?

gino lid photos would be nice... and BTW that bapty photo was personally sent to me from lee malone.. i have even spoken to lee malone on the phone! I even sent him a scope for his blaster.. we traded scopes!! lol top that! ok now back to our regularly scheduled program... the GINO v2 lid!

for an e-11 clip the removal of the entire end of the clip is needed. otherwise the clip won't lock back into the magwell... and without the cutout area it won't even fit into the magwell. you have to have the correct approach! or it won't fit!

you have to cut off the end of the clip, make flanges with pliars and put the end back on. wrap the clip with duct tape. cut with hacksaw shorten wavy edges just a small amount, about the thickness of the plate bend the top and bottom cuts into flanges that look like the end you removed the end plate from using pliars to create the bend. replace clip end plate on home made flange.

it's best to wait until the plastic belt part arrives. then you can put it in the correct position.

the spring not being under the lock makes it look farther back.. we're only talking about 1/2 of a mm or less... I'm just used to looking at the end cap in the locked position with the folding stock folded here's a quick camera phone shot. the end cap lock has 2 positions. this is position 1 this is position 2 the one I'm used to looking at BTW that is a great video! how about putting a video in this thread of you shooting that bad boy! like I said in the post above... none of this really matters... his build is great... and only has a few extremely minor points to make. no person has done a finer job at making a sterling at this point. not that I have seen. this build and steve's build are points of light to shoot for!

the end cap lock actually has 2 positions. with the end cap pushed back. and the end cap pushed forward. the spring position in the folded format would allow for only 1mm of separation between the end cap and the lock when the cap is pushed back by the inner main spring.

ok... I see what you're talking about. the inner recoil spring and the main spring cause tension which pushes out the recoil buffer about 3 loops on my assembly... yours shows about the same amount. if you put a lot of pressure on the assembly the entire recoil buffer sits inside the bolt. I stand corrected. my mistake was made because I put too much pressure on the assembly without testing it with the end cap on. I'll update my photos tomorrow in the sunlight.