TK bondservnt

NO HEAT!

wide top thin bottom.

The kidney bottom has a square shape extending from the center to the bottom. the entire plate should have a return edge.

only hot water? wow!

the outer edge of the box lines up with the edge of the plastic belt

Lets start at your waist numbers if you measure your waist you need to include the WIDEST PART. we measure clothing so it conforms to our tightest measure... we don't measure armor that way. I am a 36" waist but a 42 stomach and ribs. my chest is 44" the belt is the last thing you want. do not buy your belt first. wait until you have your armor. he does not have the armor yet. read his post. a guess would be -Trooperbay should be a good source at 53" ask mike to make you one.

standard good advice! should be a tutorial.

I did the same thing!

I'm still waiting for the 2014 supporter badge to show up on my profile! LOL!

sounds about right steve! there are other dimensional differences. the forearms are much different by comparison, and the biceps also vary quite a bit! there is no direct comparison between AP and ATA, every part is different. the forearms have small swoops and curves at the elbows and the biceps are really a lot different, in many ways. my black ATA kit is much different than my white AP kit... on a very subtle level! (nobody likes sink parts on the helmet!)

Good post! I can add this following list of differences Biceps (Ap is much more streamlined while ATA has more dimensional ridges) Belt forearms detail parts are different slightly (Tdet, knee plate, thigh power pack.) ears undercut on helmet and faceplate

FISD covers more than film cannon. We should present the correct advice on this subject all humor aside! (The UKG photo is priceless!) Keep the pauldron, and get an HWT pack! ----------

always remember that STAR WARS stuff should be dirty, damaged and used looking. I'd try to remove the window and paint the inside grey like the originals were. your window is a little small on the inside, but that's ok.

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these screen grabs show thickness! some interesting details along the sides. and the pouches look leather mp40 with no canvas detailing like on a sandy.

oh baby!

the snaps that most people use are not coated for use in salt water. where did you get those?

the clamping pressure solves this problem without any concern.

snaps are not lacquered. most use tandy or dritz snaps.. there is no paint that is used on more valued snaps that will stop the heat exchange. not one person has suggested cheap snaps.

this is incorrect. the nickel metal or brass used in snap construction can melt HIPS when in direct contact with e-6000. ABS plastic e-6000 and snaps can cause slight warping under clamping pressure. the best way to deal with snap plates is to put a small square of tape over the metal section of the snap and glue in place with light but firm pressure.

sand flat and glue some abs on.

vikings do have strong opinions. as a viking living in california I have the mindset of accuracy instead of over fond memories of armor that looks like a tupperware trash can. if some guy who is too large wants to be a stormtrooper.. GO FOR IT! I personally believe that brian and liz should be the sculpts we all are shown is the goal of the 501 as a whole. the entire membership will eventually have small medium and large armor to choose from.

Great Stuff!

The Provost Marshall position was created to manage comments on this forum. when a person makes a questionable comment, the provost marshall should take steps to advise the commenter. it's a part of the way the FISD is supposed to stand in, as a staff member and defend the very concept mentioned here. I'd like to see the marshall team, which includes all major staff members and the marshal position itself to take an active role in making the FISD a place where everyone feels welcome. even in a welcoming place there are some armor snobs still out there. I was one of those types, until I learned from the provost marshall how to better communicate. accuracy and fandom can produce some interesting results!

http://bondservnt.wix.com/the-e-11-blaster#!blueprints/cvhl this photo shows a lot of detail from a film used bapty sterling. we align the scope rear foot to the hinge on the folding stock. the counter sits at 1/2 the height of the scope. the power cells have curled wires. and the placement is shown