TK bondservnt

when I compare my sterling resin copy to PVC pipe I see that schedule 40 is just a little smaller than that. I've seen plans for the sterling listed as 38.4mm if you crinkle coated with primer. on schedule 40 pvc pipe, you'd probably be close enough!

after looking closely at an ATA lid, and very soon ATA armor itself the thickness of the plastic, and the type of plastic has little to do with the appearance of the armor. The ata lid I've been building looks like it was taken directly from a mould that was made using an AP lid as a base. the trim lines and faceplate and cap are the same dimensions as the AP kit. the faceplate looks reworked in some of the details. The eyes are deeper, and very different from the ap the cap, n back are very poor. ton's of bumps, mis shapen in overall size. it looked like the ata kit was pulled from a "bumpy cap" I was shocked at the looseness of the ata helmet. the overall shape of the cap n back looks to have been reworked to look like a bumpy cap hdpe lid. the back of the lid looks like the mould has been reworked to be wider, and has a lot less of the undercut that you'd want to see. you can see that the ata kit still has glue, and rubber trim lines moulded into it's vac forming buck. the HIPS of ata's kits has all sorts of bumps, waves, and overall makes the ata kit NEEDING a lot of sanding work to make it smooth. the "extra details" just don't come out in the hips. the pull of thinner plastic like hips actually shows bumps and waves, and just does not stand up to close scrutiny like an ABS AP kit. hips is thinner, but that does not produce a "more detailed" pull. it looks like the model produced actually has more flaws. sure, the debate sounds correct, logic would show that hips could produce a more detailed model. but the problem is: the mould has flaws that require detailing that should not be present. anyone who makes an ata kit look really really good, is because of all the sanding and careful assembly! not because of any "sharpness" CAP did a pretty good job with the overall look of the mould bucks, it's just a lot more work to put together a kit that you have to sand smooth before painting. ata works does a great job on the inner details! the hardware provided, including the hovie tips, and screws were all top notch! the more I look at TE and older respected model makers, the more proud I am of ATA AP and TM for all their hard work.

well, during late 09 there was some discussion about armor from windlass studios. then we have the rubies problem. I guess that post is just my way of supporting TM's artwork as being closer to AP. he might be the best choice for an official armorer. I like AP because it's lineage keeps it as close to the original as a recast can be... even if it's 4th gen. I like TM because he is Re- crafting the intimate details of the armor. my only drawback for the TM kit itself is the apparent curves, and size differences. I learned a lot from the photos showing in this thread. the academy will most likely be a much better place for recruits to study armor kits. eventually it would be interesting to see an armor lineup showing all the differences in all the armor kits out there.

nice title. very mil spec. academy is a great source of accuracy for the newcomers. makes the forum take a different scope. great work staff!

I just use a normal pair of craft scissors. since armor likes srt8 cuts. the good ol box cutter and a page of 60 grit sandpaper always shape the armor just right. some modeling sanding film after that to take off the burrs. and with the ATA kit sanding is just a part of the whole thing! I'd personally go with the doopy doo's kit and the PVC pipe. it's strong, hollow, and available now. some T track and a doopy doos. the resin blaster I have is VERY STRONG for a resin kit. maker of things. I've dropp tested my resin kit and all it did was chip a very little. way easy to repair. and you will always like the looks of a more accurate blaster. the hasbro just never cuts it for me! my 50 cents

I just had paul do the drilling. then sewn on. was really fun. I just put on the gloves, and my wife sewn them on perfectly! paul helped out a lot on glove selection as well.

it's the basic configuration seen on luke and han in EP IV. DLT19 and e-11 for han. and e-11 comlink and grapple for luke

if you hold down the trigger on the correct sound, my hasbro stays on the sound chosen when you hold down. has anyone else had this happen?

blasters are best made on somthing less than 1.5 inches.

could you do a pic showing a red cut line for where you'd trim the bottom edges? would most of the material come from off the faceplate? I'm thinking seriously about trimming a little off of mine.

I used number 4. I thought about using white tape! the open shins guy should stand next to mr no stripes!

I would think that aluminum could be used for the T track on a firing weapon. short bursts outside with a lot of time in between shouldn't get too hot.

it's a pretty nice looking e-11. only drawbacks are the size of the scope, and it looks a little larger all around. nice effects.

I would go with TM or AP. ATA requires paint.

The whole belt issue can be solved by putting everything on chicago screws and simply flip the belt around. the mounting points for the hero style, and stunt style simply require 2 different holsters. if you're doing stunt versions then all you need to do is put the holster on the other side of your body. the screw setup makes that possible. I did my EIB photos with ONE belt, but I've got another belt on order, so I'll troop with the two helmets and belts. the blaster modifications just need a removable hengstler. very fun to go dual mode. it's actually possible to have 3 EIB's with only 2 movies. stunt anh/ hero anh 2 esb 1 since there were hero esb's and some stunt esb's... is it possible to go 4 EIB with 2 movies? just have all the mods for each version?

Mark actually helped me out on the handguards, I wonder if they started their life in your hands? the paint scratches off with the armor itself picking pieces off. just like on screen! eventually I'll paint match them to my abs and we'll have a winner! my next EIB application will be ANH stunt. gotta help a fellow trooper out first and build him up some ATA armor. that's going to be a fun build! go alex go! that's 2 troopers in chico and counting!

Brow trim looks the same on the AP kit as the trim troopermaster uses, the neck trim, now that's what you need to replace! those seals direct links sure help out a lot! I have a new AP stunt build coming up! the last time I built a helmet I had both types of trim to compare with. I'm a penguins fan... since the great one!~

AMAZING JOB! triple EIB... so many of us are headed there! I'm going for the triple play, but this kit is amazing!

Nice Job! good blaster details!

The Stickers that come with the AP kit are nice. AP kit's don't need painting. just the frown, and the stickers and you're good to go. tk 4510 has a great build tutorial for making the AP ESB version, but really all you need to make it ANH is paint the frown 1138 grey

I need a pair for backup.

the only thing I'd add to that is some screw C clamps to keep parts locked together while glueing the clamps pictured above are exactly the kind I have, and they do shift a little but work fine on the larger parts. the ruler helps a lot if you clamp that to parts of armor and use that to cut against. having a straight edge clamped to a table really helped to cut the finishing strips. I clamped sheetmetal / plastic armor / ruler to the kitchen table and cut with razor knife. most of the sanding can be done by hand or using a table as a flat surface with the sandpaper clamped to the table. think shoulder bell sanding? or thigh part long edge sanding. good post mark I don't think I've used any hot glue.

ABS is used because that's the original format for the type of plastic. HIPS is more modern and a little less expensive. some armors require paint, so that's an extra issue of strength. a couple coats of paint, and a clearcoat makes for an even thicker equation.

thanks for the clarification there Boss! here's a relevant quote from another post: so if TE sold his work to TE 2 doesn't this apply to the TE 2 type as well?

Be careful where you get TE 2 from, the seller needs to be respectable. my advice to you brother is to GO ATA. there are lot's of people on this board who have purchased TE2 and never gotten their armor@! alex, you should call me on the phone, since we're in the same town, I can help you with tools, assembly help. I have all the tools and supplies you'd need. paint, glue, assembly help. I already have the correct paints for the blaster, and AB buttons, as well as material for making your lenses into a one way mirror. all of this can be given to you. all the parts and supplies you need can be found locally, and I probably could give you some glue, I purchased 5 tubes of E6000 for my build. I have extra gloves, parts for making a neckseal, the list goes on, and on and on. and since we're trooping together in the same garrison, ect, it only makes sense to get over here and check out this fun process! you have less than 200 days until celebration V in florida... that's not much time! but we could do it! cutting out armor is simple, you score it with a razor knife and then snap the cut by hand. sanding the cut is quick and easy with 60 grit dry. the key is making your cuts firm and smooth. if you do it firmly enough you don't need scissors and the cuts come out curved and smooth. making your own inner strips and clamping them on makes for a strong bond. I even lined the inside with white tape for a little extra strength along the seams. I even have the rivet gun for the AB plate, knee power cell and other parts. vern