TK bondservnt

having a hard plastic track would be awesome!

those pads look great. my only feeling is that you don't really need that much padding, unless you're going to be wearing it for a game of baseball, or perhaps getting clocked by a rabid ewok. One Single Circular pad at the top with a chin strap and everything stays centered, and you actually have air around your ears, and sides of your head. I don't even put padding across my forehead. for me, it's all about air flow! now that I've said all this, I think I'm gonna get some of this for my thighs and shins.

it would make any instance where a viewer saw the inside, and it would blend with the undersuit.

---------- might try these?

yeah, those LFL photos really up'ed the accuracy element. I use a combination of velcro and a single snap. the velcro keeps the snap secure from both sides. I put a snap tab right in the middle of velcro, and my elastic has a snap with velcro on the top and bottom of that snap. The elastic I use is set to pull Upwards with force, keeping them tight.

that sounds like a great idea.

well.. the brand and type used is what I'm interested in just as Joe wants to know... we all want to know the exact rivet to use, and the exact snap.. ect...

can you give the brand and type of rivet as screen used mark?

go with an ABS kit. you will like it a lot better.

with a number like TK 0000 that tells the story right there.

the eyes can be sanded to shape from the inside of the lid. there should be no lip visible on each edge.

you don't need to coat the inside with anything at all. there are AP build threads with complete examples of how to do every single step. this is for the ESB but anh is just grey frown AP ESB buid

one more reason to have a drive image backup with all your stuff neatly organized.

of course you could always disable your internet connection, turn off norton, and then un=install. when complete, you can just turn everything back on, starting with norton. after that I would try to restore back to a state. if that didn't work then I'd install a backup and clean everything up.

just glue em in front. then carefully bend them into shape. just a very small amount of heat over them in a curved position. velcro does not hold the fronts in the film.

sterling conversion blog this post is copied from the above location. I don't know if anyone knows the TRUE origins of the cylinders that mount on top of the magazine well, but I would love to hear it if you know! I did some research and discovered a few images of the cylinders I was trying to identify, in case anyone else has a brainstorm, or knows vacuum tube amplifiers from the 60s and 70s: The ones from the top of the Landspeeder, shown below also, are the same: First, 2 pics from a screen-used E-11: Then, the top of the Mouse Droid: The Landspeeder hood showing the same tubes: I actually made a pretty decent breakthrough while emailing with Paul Harrison from Elstree Studios, London (One of the men who worked on building the Landspeeders and Mouse Droids for ANH). Here is what he had to say: Hi, We built the originals but the art department did a lot of the dressing up. Most greeblie parts came from Elstree Electrical, which was an old store on the high street that had old oscilloscopes, valve radios etc. But those parts I think were just spark plugs with the porcelain knocked off with tender tap from a hammer! We helped John Stears on the mouse droids too, we had it running around the workshop, based on a Datsun 280 RC sports car from what I remember. I think it was old valves on there. Most glass bits were broken off as we knew they wouldnt survive shipping, it was easier to remove them and repaint. Hope this helps, Cheers, Paul Then I just went online searching for valve radios and found a PDF schematic for a RCA Victor Radiolette R-5 and found this: I actually made a pretty decent breakthrough while emailing with Paul Harrison from Elstree Studios, London (One of the men who worked on building the Landspeeders and Mouse Droids for ANH). I figured this blog element fit nicely here...

if you used E-6000 you can probably just carefully take it apart and trim the strips you have. that glue comes apart if you didn't use a ton. just work on it from the inside if you can to pull it apart slowly. if you used plastic weld then it would be tougher to cut apart. if you have enough trim plastic you can just cut them in 1/2 again and remove the old strips and try again.

best way to do it is to look at movie screencaps of blasters. most people do an idealized finish on their blaster, but the movie is the best referance for making a blaster look good. that said, you should consider that if you want real accuracy there are several different finish types on the weapon. first you have to choose the movie version you're doing. ANH blasters have the following colors: gloss black: handle ( the original sterling has a gloss finish ) flat black: body of weapon. every part including t tracks. semi transparent black: hengstler and scope (simulates aged finish on existing scope ) hengstler base colors: gloss black plug tip with silver solder tips one hole at end of each (2) gloss black button for numbers. front with eagle is brass including all the ridged front area. back half of hengstler is a green tan color originally. gunmetal silver: bolt cover, selector switch, trigger group upper- ( the part of the trigger where the trigger comes out of the body ) inside the barrel tip I use a mixture of brass and black. blasters are cared for by their troops, so the weathering is basically letting the original colors show through. ESB blasters have no hengstler and have silver weathering added by the prop dept. they were weathered to look damaged in the finish.

it looks like the armor came with a pauldron. he'll need a blaster and a helmet and a pack. the helmet he's looking at is the MRCE... which would need to be modded for acceptance into the 501. don't buy that helmet. you should consider making an ABS helmet that does not need to be painted. it takes quite a bit of time and expertise to paint a helmet and get armor sorted before CV

I think websites like this should have comments sections like youtube. then we could put nasty comments on their website. this website goes on the "don't do it" list of low quality armors!

well, you can always take the part down to the paint store and have them match your colors. then you will have to use that paint in your own painting gun. the key is to have the clear coat covering the paint, and then wax the armor with the proper car wax. you're going to want the type of auto paint that is used on bumpers and plastic parts. most auto body shops could provide a color match and a good clear coat choice.

looks good to me!

here is an example of the other image. does this look good? not animated yet.

do you have the screen name graphic logo? if you have all the individual elements it should be just a situation of masking out and replacing each detail on an individual frame. then when you have the 2 frames, it's easy to to a blend transformation and go back and forth.

that belt sure has a lot of seams in it?