TK bondservnt

detail shows number wheel plate. this plate holds the numbers in place. it falls out easy and needs to stay in place. note the position of the plate. more detail showing the orientation of the plate. my TK number set (sorry for the blur)

3/4 view showing case screws and overall profile. rear case removed showing numbers wheel, reset button, and wheel platen rear case removed more detail of the rear case

Left facing side front showing diode, clips and set screw for the clips.

I think that the Bicep and shoulder bell overlap concept is great for people with long slender arms but what about=== if you have short arms? if you look at this photo in the back row you can see a trooper with short biceps which requires an overlap. --------------- look in the back row, we have a short bicep trooper, and in the front row we have a longer arm at the bicep. the bicep overlap will entirely depend upon the length of the upper arm. there is not really much a trooper can do to change this unless they use a non screen accurate way of shortening the bicep armor, which I think would take away from the look, more than it adds.

I found it amazingly easy to cut it off with a hacksaw and bend the flange into the cut with a standard pair of pliars. the spring lock plate fitted back on with a hammer!

all we know is that it's an industrial counter... perhaps asking hengstler corp is a good idea?

I have seen a recent topic on this... I'll look for it. found this great ------ photo is an example from the thread

the method I use does not drill into it at all. the thin sheet metal I do drill into and mount a nut behind is all that has a hole. when the sheetmetal is properly cut it slides in between the case sleeve, and the metal case. thus sandwhiching the sleeve and metal sheet plug into place.

they don't really function. if you mean can you set and reset your numbers... sure. there are some excellent tutorials out there... here's a photo of my original hengstler shown with resin copys that I had. and with real m40 and m38 resin versions. here's my replica's placement: I use sheet metal bent into a clip, with a bolt and a nut to attach it to the hengstler. the hengstler has to have a piece of thin sheet metal added to the inside of the sleeve. if you place a hole with a small nut glued to the inside you can bolt/nut through the hengstler sleeve using the sheet metal plate as an anchor. the capacitor can be clearly seen inside the hengstler though a clear window where this plate goes. if you don't attach it this way then the entire sleeve can simply be slid off and your hengstler will come off in your hand. and here's a photo showing where it's located on the blaster in the film. and here's the tutorial on one trooper's way of mounting it: I really think it looks better mounted directly in line with the front scope screw. here is a photo showing the front sleeve removed and the window where the capacitor is located:

shims don't look bad with seams or gaps... rivets near the center of a gap, or on the edge of the shim seem fine to me?

I think that ADDING centurion to the EIB program is excellent! I would not want to have to throw away my EIB patches. this layout would look very nice:

looks very MGC/ROTJ based!!

I say go for the creased decals!

such a perfect answer...! I cannot agree MORE!!

the ROTJ version is based upon a MGC sterling copy. the mgc version has many different details. the dimension of the tube is smaller 35mm the bolt. end cap and barrel front. the folding stock and grips. everything is slightly different. even the trigger is different! then you add the sight rail, scope and hammer greeblies for the final touches. the front sling mount and C channel grip tracks on the barrel finally make for the distinguishing features on the ROTJ version...

I used white webbing so that they don't stretch! 1" and I attached it to the screw points at the ends of my belt. I use chicago screw posts glued to the inside of my belt caps. makes for easy washing and changing of a belt.

those look fine!

it's really a nice looking gun... but the hengstler is mounted on the wrong lug of the scopes... therefore, it's a little far back... would be a lot better if it were mounted in the correct position! again... nice blaster... but it's those little details that make for a really great prop! the cocking spring is a little too long, has too many loops, and also there is no cocking handle on the bolt! ah... the nit picks!

CAP-W also makes screen accurate black ABS kits! and now ATA also have abs...

happy little ewoks dancing under happy little trees!

grip forward! and what is your opinion of the quality of the holster... I make them for tk 4510!!

this actually made me laugh!

uh... a radio on an hwt?

I think that the 2 marks in this thread have explained it very well! here's some information that TOM so excellently gave me, so I'll add this to the discussion!

all I ask is that you make the finish simulate the parkerized style. smooth is what people usually do, and we all know that bumpy is best!!! nice job on assembly! I'm right behind you guys with this type of gun!!! and I have 3 eagle hengstlers to go on a run of 3! all we need now are some scopes!