TK bondservnt

really letting paint "fall" onto the surface or fogging the paint on is an art. temperature, air flow and technique all combine. elimination of paint runs before they happen is just knowing exactly how much paint you have on an area. spraying directly, is a major cause for failure. allowing the paint to fog evenly is the key he seems to be describing here. I put my helmets on a shower curtain rod attached vertically. then I paint sitting in a chair starting from the bottom and then standing up all while rotating the helmet by spinning the rod. rotation allows me to stand in one spot, and manage the paint flow by doing the helmet in quarters. I've painted 3 helmets. one mrce, and one ATA. and clear coated one black ATA. painting inside a room/ garage is really the best way to manage air flow. but the real key to painting a bucket is this: let the paint cure fully at the proper temperature (can take weeks) just let it sit. then polish your paint by wetsanding with 1200-1600 evenly and carefully. then finally clear coat and wetsand for the "impossible" shine look...

I'd troop with it. looks much better than a hasbro any day!

freakin awesome dude!

from photos shown on the RPF.

you can also trim off a small amount at the bottom of the shins to lower them a tad, and then raise your thighs up just about 1/2" this way your legs won't touch each other and bind up.

mason and I have been discussing the belt, and from his most recent screen caps we have noticed that they are most likely not rivets!~ they appear to be actual grommet holes like on the old fashioned WWII webbing belts that have placements for hanging canteens and ammo pouches. the belt actually appears to be exactly like the LFL ANH stormtrooper belt that was released at C V. from his screencaps you can see that the belt plastic is also not centered on the belt, but is aligned to the top of the plastic belt. you can clearly see that the grommets are 2 in a vertical line spaced evenly all across the belt. not just beside the T Det.

that looks like a standard sterling base with an m19! no greeblies. the cover art just shows the standard sterling base and m38 or m40 we don't have a screenshot showing TKC holding a blaster?

this is exactly what I needed to finish my TKC build! I'm looking at using 3 shades of blue as well! I have been testing different blues on my ABS and checking out the toothpaste, latex and sanding weathering concepts. it would be fun to have printouts of the exact textures in real size! could act like a stencil for scratches!

only ROTJ and hero ANH helmets have bubble lenses. the majority of helmets in the legion have flat dark green lenses as a standard. take a look at www.starwarshelmets.com for more details.

hengstlers should be aligned with the front scope screw and sit in the correct location in relation to the mag well, and scope. the best photo is taken from where leia confronts vader. as long as your attachment is strong, and in the right location it matters little how you get there:

I have both the hero and stunt versions built so I can choose. soon I'll be upgrading my hero lid from a fully modded MRCE with 3 bump ears and complete mods. then perhaps I shall sell my original hero lid.

that project box is a little big... eh? I agree! should be scaled to the photo of the screen used prop.

looks interesting! to me the thighs seem a little dirrrty! maybe it will look even more interesting on a trooper?

I have seen a bolt on the thigh on the sci-man armor. started out as a sandy and was reconditioned for DS scenes.

TM lids with mar

TM lids with mark assembling them... hits the spot everytime!

hand paint for the ab buttons. decals for the helmet. looks much better with mike's hand painted decals.

take a piece of tubing the same size as the hovie. but slightly smaller so that the screen will fit. if you have stainless steel screen it's best to shoot it with some clear gloss before handling to keep it from coming apart. handle after fully cured. 2 days? press the pipe down onto the screen, bend the screen over the end of the pipe. take the screen and press into the hovie tip. use a small amount of glue and put a very small dot along 3 spots on the mesh. the single piece mesh is easy to work with, and several hovie styles have a groove at the tip for the screen.

make the T Track wide to cover the holes completely along their length. taper the ends. looks like a great build!

you can also look up TK 4510 for belts, AB button decals. on an AP lens, I put one way mirror film on the inside. like a sandtrooper lens... works great in the sun...

nice collection john! lookin pretty hero from here!

joker squad armor like this would rule!

the front bayonet flat area looks fine enough, on the originals it has a slight imperfection on it's edges so you look close enough for imperial work! when you make up your T Tracks you need to make them taper into the holes at the end. The T Track should completely cover the holes and just be cut thinner at the ends to bend over. some people make them the same width as the holes, and that is not the way it was done on screen. the inner profile of a T Track is also curved to the shape of the barrel, which helps them to lay flat on a curved surface! the last row of lower holes is also covered by a small piece of T Track. looking absolutely wonderful! only thing you could also do is to study the texture of the paint in a parkerized style finish. it's not like crackle paint, it's just a bumpy pebble texture all across the barrel. since the greeblie stunt is a replica of a solid resin block gun there should be a bumpy texture on the whole paintjob that replicates the bumpyness of a resin cast. this is one great build you have there!

I like being a nerdy blaster nut! it's fun. steve points out even more accuracy problems with these well put together items. I had the chance to see a cinemastery product at the most recent wondercon. the E-11 is a pvc pipe with aluminum details, u channel aluminum and weird scope rail. scope is resin and solid.

you should be able to remove your paint with novus polish for plastic. contact mike tk 4510 and he can hook you up!