ukswrath

12a. Back to the plastic insert. Note: The plastic can be substituted with card board or anything that will give the vest structure. Now that the side and top seams have been completed let's finish. Install the plastic material previously cut then sew lower vest seam. The vest should look like this afterwards.

14. Reattach the lower vest strap. The lower strap and buckle were still usable except the buckle now no longer matches the new ones being used. I elected to replace it. The nylon was a bit different also but not enough to warrant replacing it. Essentially, position the long nylon portion on the lower left side of vest and continue to sew it into the back cover. Using the existing nylon and the new buckle on the right side, sew them into place. It should look like this afterwards

No, just heavy duty. If I may add, this is not a high end sewing machine either but it's taken everything I've thrown at it.

11. Lower vest back fabric panel. Before moving on we need to create and affix the vest lower back panel. Measure the exposed area. Using the Cordura fabric cut fabric leaving 1/2" extra for sewing edge. Note: Measurements may differ Fold and sew seems Sew to upper back panel cover. This is what you should have afterwards. 12. As you may notice since you've disassembled the vest it has no structure, this is where the for sale sign material comes in. I'll be sewing the plastic into the front a rear sections to giving the vest rigidity. At this stage we're only going to measure and test fit the plastic as it's not sew in until later. Measure and cut plastic accordingly. 13. Mid vest connecting straps and buckles Again with the toy the mid vest connections and positions differ from the Flyyee vest as seen here. Toy Flyye The Flyye vest only utilizes a adjusting slide where the toy uses a slide and a buckle. To better match the toy vest and keep things uniform throughout I purchased new 1" buckles, slides and 1" nylon Cut and measured the nylon first. One section 5-1/2" and the other 10" Loop the 10" section through the buckle then through the slide. Sew in the center with the joint on the underside (side opposite of buckle and slide top) . Loop the 5-1/2" section through the opposite side of the slide then sew it to the vest in the correct area which is on the side of the vest, just above the upper clip pouch level. NOTE: When sewing this section start at the top of the vest fold and sew down the side of the vest essentially sewing in this anchor. Discontinue sewing approximately 2" from the bottom of the vest. The new connecting strap should look similar to this.

Vest mod cont... NOTE: Due to newly released images of the HGT vest the shoulder strap and greeblies appear to be incorrect or incorrectly assembled on the toy version. In the following section 10, the floor material is incorrectly installed in comparison to the canon vest. Skip this section and proceed to 10a. for accurate assembly and before continuing onto section 11. 10. Cut and sew in floor runner material to be used for upper shoulder harness. Cut and sew in new nylon webbing to be used for shoulder harness anchor. Cut a 2" x 2' section of floor runner material. Loop it through one end of the 2" connector with the short side being on the back (unseen) then sew together. Cut new 2" webbing, loop into other half of connector then sew to vest.

Vest mod cont... 9. Center connections and straps The toy vest center shoulder strap connections are mounted outside (to the left and right) of the outermost clip pouches in comparison to the Flyye vest that are almost mounted directly above the pouches as seen here. Toy Flyye The shoulder harness material and connections to the vest are also incorrect on the Flyye. The Flyye uses a release buckle attached to nylon shoulder straps and the toy utilizes a joiner to floor runner material. Toy Flyye After endless searching for 2" connection joints I decided to make my own. Purchased a 10 pack on a good deal, and I'm sure I'll use the rest for something. Discard the male clips. Cut 4 remaining female clips down far enough so that the release indent is no longer seen. A belt sander works perfect for this as it gives both sides a perfect mating surface. Test fit Apply CA glue and clamp together. Let dry. Finished

Thanks all @Andrew, I just cant sit still lol

Very nice work

Vest mod cont... 8. Fold and glue fabric to clip foam block. Cut out a small section the rear section. Using CA glue and zip kicker or other, glue th fabric lid down. Test fit the blocks To be cont....

In this tutorial I'll take a Flyee vest (Tactical Combat Chest Rig) and modify it to match the toy Heavy Gunner Trooper vest from Hottoys.com. For obvious reasons the details may change once the movie comes out. Items needed: 1 Flyye Tactical Combat Chest Rig. Can be purchased from multiple vendors as supply lasts. I purchased mine from Ebay - Chest rig 1 yard of Denier Cordura 1000D fabric - Can be purchased from multiple vendors as supply lasts. I purchased mine from Ebay - Fabric 6" x 2" nylon webbing - 2" webbing 4' x 1" nylon webbing - 1" buckle 4x 2" buckle - 2" buckle 6-8 x 1" Tri Slide Guide - 1" tri slide guide 2-4 x 1" Flat Buckle - 1" flat buckle 4' x 2" Floor Runner material - I purchased a 2' x 36" section from Lowes - Runner Material 4' x 1-3/8" Floor Runner material - I purchased a 2' x 36" section from Lowes - Runner Material 1" x 3" x 10" (x3) - Packing foam strips (vest ammo clip storage and drop box base) 1" x 3' x 5" (x2) - Packing foam strips (vest side pouches) 3x - Inner Drop Box sets from Kevin - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8638-for-sale-inner-drop-boxes/ 6x - 1-/2" x 1/8" Machine screws and nuts 6x - 1/2" x 3mm x 10mm magnets (functional drop box only) 2x - Custom resin & rubber slide buckle, belt straps, locks and slides - Chris Hale Facebook, [email protected] 1x - 2' x 2' Sale sign Tools: Knife Scissors Cutting Sheers Sand paper or Belt sander Steel ruler Angle Pencil Marker Drill with 11/54" drill bit Sewing Machine Assembly Materials: Zap-A-Gap (CA glue) & Zip Kicker E6000 Assembly: The Toy Flyye vest Disassemble: 1. Disassemble vest leaving the three front boxes, high tension storage belts and right buckle intact. Remove any threads and stray fabric. 2. Sew fabric from center pouch to top of vest. 3. Measure, fold and sew upper section to lower section. The area above the clip pouches is occupied by what appears to be TK drop boxes. Drop boxes measuring 6cm wide and 11cm long appear to be most accurate in size in comparison to the clip pouches. With that said, from the top of the clip pouch measure 13cm, allowing for 1cm above and below the drop box for clearance. This should also be approximately 10" from the bottom of the vest to the fold. Fold the upper fabric section over on the back at the measurement. Sew approximately 3/16" from fold edge. 4. Measure clip pouches for foam insert. 5. Measure and cut 3 foam blocks the same measurement of the clip pouches. A portion will slide into the pouches while the other half will extend to the top of the vest. The upper portion will be covered by fabric while the majority of the foam inside the clip will not. Why waste it right? 6. Using the final (3rd layer) fabric section form the original vest fold it into thirds then cut into 3 sections. 7. Fold material around the foam blocks. Add enough material lengthwise so that approximately 1/2" will tuck into the clip pouch. You should have plenty of room at the top of the block to fold over later. 8. Flip block and fabric over. The shiny (inner) side of the fabric should be facing upwards. Apply E6000 or other glue and fold material onto it and let set. Once dry you should have something similar to this.

Thanks Q

Nice flexibility. Can't wait to get mine

Not everyone has broad shoulders, the support keeps the bells in a specific position which gives the troopers uniformity. It's also suggested it assists with the inner strapping if assembled a certain way.

Thanks, glad it helps

Screen accurate shoulder bell supports

That's a whole lot of snaps

Hey Victor, even with the template on my build thread results can differ between builders and armor. We (the approvers) are not expecting the belt to be perfectly positioned, directly underneath the ab plate however we would want to see it positioned level. Sorry if all this is confusing. You're doing a great job, just a few more adjustment and you should be good to go. EDIT: To be honest I'm not as concerned about the belt as I am the AB position.

What Jason is saying is the left side of the belt is hanging lower than the right. As a matter of fact your entire ab section is lower on the left than the right. It needs to be raised up about 1/2" or so. May I also suggest lowering your biceps a bit and raising your forearms so that they almost touch at the elbow.

Alright let's take a look here. There's some things you'll need to fix before applying for EIB, some will be required for Centurion but if you do them all now then you won't have to deal with it later. NOTE: In my AM 1.0 tutorial I illustrate how to do all this if you're interested. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-ata-bucket-build/ 1. First off your right thigh cover strip it needs to extend to the top of the thigh. We'll require it for Centurion Yours Correct 2. Your ammo pack need to be centered with the cover strip. We'll require it for Centurion Yours Correct 3. Your ammo pack needs to be attached with a solid head rivet, a requirement for EIB and Centurion From the CRL: For level two certification (if applicable): Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.The solid head rivet attachment is painted white. Standard pop rivets are not allowed The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt are rounded off. Yours Correct 4. Rear shins need cover strips where they'll be used to close the calves. Centurion requirement From the CRL For level three certification (if applicable): Lower legs must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.Yours Correct Example of using Velcro to close Have any other questions feel free to ask

If all goes well strapping will start this weekend.

Thanks guys

I wouldn't know I let the painter do it, my luck I would have taped off the wrong areas

Update! Painting pics from the body shop

Agreed