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TK-32700

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    76
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About TK-32700

  • Rank
    Centurion

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://tk32700.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norway

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20171121
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Simon
  • 501st ID
    32700
  • 501st Unit
    Nordic Garrison

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  1. I just did the bottle cap challenge. I think I did pretty well... What do you guys think?
  2. Flat lenses are approvable according to the CRL: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero If you are aiming for Expert Infantry or Centurion, though, you'll need bubble lenses.
  3. Hi, Andrew! Welcome Which TK version are you going for?
  4. Good work so far! If you have much return edge, you can trim some of that. But I wouldn't shorten the biceps just jet. Like others have pointed out, it looks like the shoulder bells are the culprits, not the biceps themself. You want the bells almost touching the shoulder ridge. This will force them a bit higher, making more room for the biceps. (This also helps you if you are aiming for Centurion. The edge of the bells should lie mostly flush with the edge of the chest, with minimal gap.) Also thighten the shoulder bell straps holding the biceps. Depending on the sice and shape of the biceps, the straps should almost be in tension when not in use. This should force the biceps to ride higher and fit better. Some troopers also have an additional hidden strap inside the bells connecting to the top of the biceps. It makes it a bit more cumbersome to put on and take off, but will keep everything in place while trooping.
  5. Wow, look at that shiny faceplate! You've made a good start. Keep it up!
  6. Simon Hansen 32700 EIB A4 Tony http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/32700-eib.png
  7. Thanks Tony! That's awesome to hear I've already started with the abdomen and chestplate. There is some slack in the strapping due to wear and tear, so I have tightened the chest straps and made the chest overlap more. The ab and kidney also aligns better, but I'm not 100 % happy yet. More work is needed. I will also look into your other suggestions. Not sure about the thighs, though. They have somehow shrunk since building them. I'm not sure how -- it is definitely not related to cake each Friday at work -- but they don't fit me as well as they used to.
  8. Name: Simon Hansen Legion ID: 32700 Garrison: Nordic Garrison Armor: Troopermaster Helmet: Troopermaster Blaster: Trooperbay Height: 179 cm Boots: TKboots Canvas Belt: Trooperbay Electronics: iComm w. Aker amp. Neal Seal Type: Darman Holster: Trooperbay Link to photo album if images doesn't show: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hoJfvJ420TmpTYpH2
  9. Requesting 501st access, please. TK 32700, Nordic Garrison http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=20024
  10. I've spent two evenings on the tube stripes now. They were, as previously mentioned, a disaster. This is after some clean-up: New stencils would take too long, and I didn't dare to try freehand since this is more or less the first time I have used a paint brush in 25 years. So I took my time, armed with a toothpick, a box of cotton swabs and some paint thinner, and have cleaned up both sides. The stripes are a bit ugly up close, but if kept at an arms length away, you won't see it. And they are now the correct distance, one pencil width, from the cheek. Only the frown mesh remains, and the helmet should be done. Yes, this is the strips that came with the kit. I did not know of the 75 mm guideline. I figured that I liked the look with a front facing panel, and went ahead. I have now reread the CRL (something one should do often during a build!), and it does actually state: "The white control panel pad faces upwards". So thanks for the heads-up! Clips adjusted accordingly, without much hassle:
  11. So, I redid the tube stripes, but had to use the old stencils. What a disaster. I don't know where to start with the clean up, let alone how. But I just have to figure out a way. While I work up some courage for that, I have assembled the Thermal Detonator. At first I was worried about bending the metal rods, but it turned out to be the easiest part of the TD. Some measurements, if anyone is interested: Screws: slotted pan head screws, head is 6 mm wide 2 mm high painted black, screw is 3 mm wide, total length 18 mm. Tube: 180 mm x 68 mm. End caps: 20 mm. Front face: 115 mm x 98 mm Metal rods: 210 mm x 27 mm
  12. Thanks. I did use a pencil width, but I might have messed it up. I placed the stencils a pencil width away, not the stripes themselves. Rookie mistake. I had planned on doing clean-up tonight, but I might need to redo the stripes. I took a quick measurement. The stripes are 12 mm away, which is approx. two pencil-widths. What do you guys think? Should I clean them up and keep the stripes this way, or should I remove and redo?
  13. No one has ever accused me of having steady hands, so the paint job was terrifying. The vocoder looks awful, but the rest is borderline OK. Done with all the grey and black details, and are working on the blue tube stripes. I used the "hand painted" stencils from Trooperbay for this. Can't wait to pull them off and see how it turned out! It looks like a couple of stripes have run a bit underneath, but that is nothing a toothpick and some paint thinner can't fix. Next, I'll tackle the Thermal Detonator.
  14. Long week, working the late shift, but here is a image dump of some of the work since last update. I have glued the shoulder ridges. Also pictured is the white elastic and the snap plate. Split rivets set, 6 in the side, 1 in the crouch (not pictured here). The button plates on abdomen has also been glued:
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