T-Jay

That scope looks beautiful, Tom. Really good work! Regarding your painting plan: yes, you should do the inside of the scope first, then attach the lenses, mask them and give it the outer spray coat. For painting the inside I suggest to use a brush, as spray paint will cause a lot of paint tears inside your scope.

Done.

Hi Dan, you kept your word. I am keeping fingers crossed for you...

It is possible to cover the magnets in both, the mag well and the magazine clip. Although it looks good, it will drastically reduce the required force to unplug the magazine. While trooping, you could lose your magazine clip... The removable magazine is based on the idea to make your blaster smaller for packing it into your trooping bin. If you do not need to make it smaller, you can skip this mod if you like.

Regarding the magnets: if you use all 5 of them and do not use any clay to cover them, their strength should feel fine.

Of course I know, Chris. Following your thread since ages and eagerly waiting for your full kit to be available. By the way, could you tell us drooling troopers any roughly estimated period, when you are ready to offer them?

That is exactly, what I had asked myself. During the last 3 years I had been in contact with the Hengstler main site in Germany, with industrial representatives and with a lot of industrial end users. Absolutely nothing. A funny thing was, when I first called Hengstler and got transferred to "THE" contact person for the 400-series, he immediately was aware and asked, if I belong to a Star Wars club. Looks like he had already received a few calls before. A funny guy though and we had a nice discussion. All machines and tools to build the metal versions from the 400-series are disassembled and removed since decades. They are not able to produce any of the old hardware again - even if they would want it. This makes Chris' metal brackets even more valuable.

Hi Phil. In this build, wet newspapers and dirty water got used to add a slight (and removable) weathering. An easy and simply way. Maybe this is something to start with...

That is a very good idea and a nice summarization of your build. Well done, Dan.

Hi Tom. Very sorry to hear about the broken aluminum stripe. Very often in this forum you can find recommendations to cut that grove on the opposite side of the bend. In general this is a good idea for the following reasons: - it exactly defines the position on the rail where the bend happens - it causes a sharp bend, rather than a soft and curvy bend The only problem is, sometimes people cut too deep and reduce the stability of the material. Then the rail snaps when being bent. To leave enough stability, I would suggest to cut not more than about one third of the thickness. Anyway, it already happened and my words won't help you now, so what to do?! I guess we can forget about gluing and welding that aluminum, so I see these options. You can: - check if the bigger part is still long enough to make the bracket from it - check if you have anything else at home to scratch build the bracket from (bear in mind, this part is hard to see later) - check if you find 2x20mm (or something close to this) aluminum stripes in a local D.I.Y. store Or you can contact me to send you more aluminum (or alternatively go for the finished scope rail). Pick whatever works best for you. And keep up the good work. Things like that can always happen.

Okay, I dismantled the mannequin, took the required photos and added them into the first posting. Keeping fingers crossed now...

Yes, you can leave a small gap to avoid scratches on the receiver tube. No worries. In the movie they had used hot-glue to add the Hengstler counters. Due to the weight of these counters (with metal brackets back then), many fell off and only left the hot-glue residue. This can be seen (for example) on Luke's blaster in ANH when he removes his TK helmet in that Death Star control room...

WOOHAA!!! Metal brackets!!! You found a little treasure in that box.

Scope rail looks good so far and 74mm left for the bracket sounds more than enough. The dimensions of this L-shaped piece are best to find, when attaching the counter to the rail.

That sounds like a good plan to me. And as Dan's picture below shows, the original trigger indeed rests deeper into that section and with a different angle. As a last option, you could also contemplate to shorten the front end of the trigger to get the required space between it and the guard.

Thanks for highlighting this, Patrick. The photos were taken while I was in the armor, so unfortunately I do not have such pictures. Adding these now is not that easy, because the armor is displayed on a mannequin. Will see what I can do...

Steady Dan That is just the request. Let's wait and see...

Personal Information Name: Tino Jacobs 501st TK ID: 61276 FISD Name: T-Jay Garrison: German Garrison (White Shadows Squad) Profile Page: 501st Profile TK-61276 Armor Maker: Troopermaster Helmet Maker: Troopermaster Blaster Type: E-11 DoopyDoo's Full Resin Height: 176 cm Weight: 70 kg Boots Maker: TK-Boots Canvas belt: Troopermaster Hand Plates: Sonnenschein Electronics: Aker Voice Amp Neck Seal: Veedox Holster Maker: Troopermaster Link to Armor: Fully finished ANH Stunt TK (1,5mm ABS) from Troopermaster with some modifications Link to Blaster: Full resin E-11 from DoopyDoo's with some modifications Link to EIB App: TK-61276 Requesting [ANH-Stunt] EIB Status [TM] [778] Armor Photos Full Body Front – Arms at side Back – Arms at side Left – Arm raised Right – Arm raised Armor Details Right Side Detail – Arm raised (Ab/Kidney Attachment) Left Side Detail – Arm raised (Ab/Kidney Attachment) Abdomen Details Action Shot Hand Plates Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Bridge Front Back/Chest Connection Thigh Pack Attachment Knee Plate Drop Box Back Cod and Butt Plate Attachment Interior Strapping Kidney Plate Notch Wrist side of forearms Helmet Details Front Left Side Right Side Back Hovi Mic Tip Detail Lens Color S-Trim Blaster Details Blaster – Left Blaster – Right Accessory Details Neck Seal Thermal Detonator – Back Holster Attachment Inside Holster Attachment Outside Boots Please state if additional information or photos are required. Thank you.

Hi Tom and welcome to the FISD. Glad to see you started your own build thread and it looks like you are already in best hands. You are right. The aluminum stripe from your kit is just long enough to make the scope rail and that counter bracket at the side. For the trigger guard you would need a separate piece of aluminum. If a person takes a completion set WITH the fully finished scope rail, the aluminum stripe from that kit will be left over and can then be used for the trigger guard. But I would not worry too much. On my first DoopyDoo's blaster I also made a working trigger with that standard resin trigger guard. It is possible.

Tino Jacobs 61276 EIB A4 Tony Thanks in advance http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/61276-eib.png

Thank you very much, Shane. I see, you went through all this as well. Going to prepare for the next step soon... Unfortunately I already have a busy schedule for this weekend, but will do my best to request the Centurion during the next days. Your "Blaster Master" had to downgrade the E-11 to get EIB approval. Crazy world, heh?! Thank you Jesse. Can not wait to go ahead...

Hi Tony, thank you very much for your fast reply, the EIB approval and the EIB badge. A great feeling - and another step for the March to 1000 program. Glad to be a part of it now. Also thanks for highlighting the position of the Thermal Detonator clips. The CRL says "little to no gap" and I thought this would be accepted as "little". Anyway, I will use the next days to correct this, take new photos and then submit for Centurion. Maybe Santa Claus brings a special birthday present this year...

Okay Tony. Blaster type, link to the blaster and the blaster photos have now been updated with a different build.

Hi Tony, thank you for your comment. This specific E-11 blaster was built to have as many details as possible from a real Sterling SMG 9mm, including the interior. The inner bolt is in the pulled-position and due to the electronics inside, I can not move it forward. That means the ejector port is permanently open. Although having pictures in my build thread, proving this is screen accurate, I fully get your point and will soon replace the pictures with a different blaster I have...

Yes, cut the outstanding part of the nail, then glue it and seal the holes with greenstuff. Just make sure to do this at the correct moment of your build progress, as you might have to dismantle it a couple of times until you are done with the build.