DroidHunter

I personally think the low brow is the way to go. But that is a personal preference. Looks good.

A good point, although the post on my split rivets is long as well.

I would, but I already have the 7mm cap rivets for the ammo knee belt, and I decided to use snaps to attach the ammo belt to the canvas belt so I can wash the darned thing. The canvas already got filthy at an armor party this weekend, and I'd go nuts if I couldnt wash it! Practicality over accuracy.

Obviously, in order to be "movie accurate", split rivets should be used on the left side of the kidney and ab plates. The CRL states as follows (ANH): I know that split rivets can be difficult to set. My question is this: Would it be permissible, under the CRL for both EIB and Centurion, to use Double cap rivets instead -- so long as they are "rounded or domed, solid, and approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter? For example, would these be acceptable? The head on these double cap rivets is 8mm and rounded. They look very similar to the split rivets I have. I know this would not be accurate to the original suits, but then again, neither is my strapping method. Just curious, as these are easier to install, wont snag the undersuit, and are available close to my home.

I've had good luck with Loctite brand in the past, so I'll keep that in mind. Thanks Vern.

Thanks Mathias. If a snap does pop off I can always reset it with E6000 in the future.

If there is such a thing. I am closing in on the end of my build, which I have done entirely with E6000. I preferred the slower cure time and inherent flexibility. However, I am going to an armor party this weekend and I need to mount my snap plates so that the vets can help me strap up. I'll never get that done with E6000. So, I am considering using CA glue to mount the snap plates (that still need to be put together...) so that I can potentially mount the plates, and then start strapping all on Saturday. So my questions are (1) does anybody else use CA glue for mounting snap plates or is there a concern about heat generation as was once suggested would happen with E6000 and metal?; (2) Are there any recommended CA glues to use for this? I saw this posted elsewhere: --------- I am open to any suggestions. If CA glue is not recommended for this, I'll just finish up at another time.

I guess I did! Oh well, I can live with the result. Finished painting and I'm content with the final result.

Take a look at some of the Centurion submission threads and you will see how the stuff from the link above can be put together. You probably want some 1 inch, 2 inch and 3 inch black, plus 1 inch white and something for the shoulders. Closest I found was 1 1/2 inch white.

I hope Bill D was an oversight in the article. Max HAS to be an evil character....

Working on my ab buttons. I used a pen cap to draw a circle in pencil, then painted free-hand. How do these look so far? Also, the smaller button plate migrated a little to the right as you look at it, while the glue set up. Does it look ok?

You and me both. Glad it helped somebody out! Still trucking along on my build, just haven't snapped many pics lately. Everything is done as far as gluing pieces together other than the backs of my thighs as I try to decide whether to cut more. However, shins, forearms, biceps are done. I cleaned up the chest, back, kidney plate, butt plate and shoulders this weekend, and marked off where the split rivets will go on the left side. I also made a run and grabbed some elastic from Joann's (1 inch, 2 inch and 3 inch black, 1 inch white and 1 1/2 for the shoulders -- until I can grab some 1 3/4 instead). Then, after finding out I have a Tandy Leather shop nearby, I picked up 2 sets of line 24 snaps. I still have to do my belt and add the ammo pack to my thigh, but I should be able to start strapping up soon. There's a local armor party on the 10th so I am hopeful to be just about finished after that.

Go to the Costuming and Builds section and post under the ANH build thread, or ESB build thread depending on your choice. Good Luck! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/31-costuming-and-builds-501st/

Great advice from everyone here. The quote above is exactly what I have been using, with 1 exception: I only bought the curved Lexan scissors from Amazon. I personally am not a big fan of the score and snap except for the cover strips, so I used the scissors A LOT!. Straight scissors would be good for trimming the long edges of the arm and leg pieces while the curved scissors are good for the opening edges of the arm/leg pieces and parts of the body. But I made out fine using the curved ones for everything.

I decided to go straight to Terrell (Mr. ATA himself) with this question. He told me that the edge with the raised ridge in the mold area that gets cut off is the bottom. You can see that ridge in my picture from above: Just above the blue line in this pic is the raised ridge line in the mold. That edge should sit against the butt plate, and so the kidney plate is upside down in this picture. The opposite edge has two "bumps" in it that look a bit like love handles. That edge is the upper edge, so the kidney should sit like this: I only share this since I got the information from the seller himself, and it might save others from the same confusion in the future.

Fist off I apologize the the lousy quality of these pictures. My cell phone is doing a lousy job. I know this has been asked before, but I cannot find a clear answer to the question. Can anybody help me figure out the proper alignment for the ATA kidney plate? Here are the two possible orientations: option 1: or option 2:

Good luck my friend! Just look at the ATA builds (including mine) for lots of good information. And remember the rule of thumb, after you research, measure twice and cut once! No two troopers are built the same. The fact that your helmet is done will save you lots of time.

A little E6000 in the middle and on both contact points on the left and the right makes it sit nice and solid.

More steady progress. I finished up the forearms, although I need to add some velcro and padding inside -- man, that right ATA forearm is big! Also got some solid work in on the biceps. Its amazing how snug they fit after seeing how roomy the forearms are. I had to leave some excess flat area on the biceps in order to get them to fit, and I do not have big bicpes. Going to have to knock down the slight return edge on the front of the forearms if Centurion is ever in the picture. As I don't have the funds for a blaster upgrade right now, I'm working towards EIB, but keeping Centurion in mind.

First post image modified, but set up the same way as the original image so as to maintain the context of my original question. Does this work better Germain?

I'll fix that first post later today, if that will help. This thread really cleared it up for me, so thanks to all.

Thanks for all of the quick feedback. I don't know why I can cut, drill and paint but boiling worries me. But if boiling water can't warp or melt it then I guess it's worth a shot. I do have a bucket big enough for the thigh pack. But I'll keep my eyes open for a cheap heat gun too.

Its time for me to start making bends on the thigh ammo pack and the belt. I see a lot of guys have used boiling water, but (1) I'm a little wary of trying that and (2) I don't have a large enough bucket to pour the water into anyway. I have seen it suggested that a hair dryer can be used. Does that really work? Does it generate enough heat? I saw Pandatrooper's suggestion about using paint stirring sticks to hold the flat section still while bending at the base of each ammo pack and heating with a heat gun. Can that be done with a hair dryer, or is that just a waste of time?

Thanks Mathias. My rivets will be arriving any day and I just want to be ready!