DroidHunter

Fist off I apologize the the lousy quality of these pictures. My cell phone is doing a lousy job. I know this has been asked before, but I cannot find a clear answer to the question. Can anybody help me figure out the proper alignment for the ATA kidney plate? Here are the two possible orientations: option 1: or option 2:

Good luck my friend! Just look at the ATA builds (including mine) for lots of good information. And remember the rule of thumb, after you research, measure twice and cut once! No two troopers are built the same. The fact that your helmet is done will save you lots of time.

A little E6000 in the middle and on both contact points on the left and the right makes it sit nice and solid.

More steady progress. I finished up the forearms, although I need to add some velcro and padding inside -- man, that right ATA forearm is big! Also got some solid work in on the biceps. Its amazing how snug they fit after seeing how roomy the forearms are. I had to leave some excess flat area on the biceps in order to get them to fit, and I do not have big bicpes. Going to have to knock down the slight return edge on the front of the forearms if Centurion is ever in the picture. As I don't have the funds for a blaster upgrade right now, I'm working towards EIB, but keeping Centurion in mind.

First post image modified, but set up the same way as the original image so as to maintain the context of my original question. Does this work better Germain?

I'll fix that first post later today, if that will help. This thread really cleared it up for me, so thanks to all.

Thanks for all of the quick feedback. I don't know why I can cut, drill and paint but boiling worries me. But if boiling water can't warp or melt it then I guess it's worth a shot. I do have a bucket big enough for the thigh pack. But I'll keep my eyes open for a cheap heat gun too.

Its time for me to start making bends on the thigh ammo pack and the belt. I see a lot of guys have used boiling water, but (1) I'm a little wary of trying that and (2) I don't have a large enough bucket to pour the water into anyway. I have seen it suggested that a hair dryer can be used. Does that really work? Does it generate enough heat? I saw Pandatrooper's suggestion about using paint stirring sticks to hold the flat section still while bending at the base of each ammo pack and heating with a heat gun. Can that be done with a hair dryer, or is that just a waste of time?

Thanks Mathias. My rivets will be arriving any day and I just want to be ready!

So 10 mm from the edge, space them out evenly and don't bunch them up -- bottom one probably covered by belt. Is that about right?

Forgive me if a diagram like this has been posted already, but I can't seem to find one. Also I am at work, so I apologize for the crude picture. I am trying to make sure I get the placement correct on my split rivets before I put them in. My understanding from various Centurion and EIB builds is the the rivets should be 10 mm from the edge and evenly spaced. Are there any guidelines beyond that, such as how faw to place them from the top and bottom edge ("A" and "D" above). Should that also be 10 mm? I assume naturally that "BB and "C" above should be equal, but is there any specified distance? Or does that depend on the kit being built? If this has been specifically answered before, you can just smack me and point me to the post. I could not find it by using the search function. As always, thanks in advance!

Are you still looking at ebay kits? I really think you should go with one of the lower priced kits from vetted sellers (all still high quality -- lots of current build threads available to look at).

I take it the boiling water did not affect the glue from the front cover strips and sniper plate?

I read that armor bites happen a lot here so I knocked the return edges way down. I have to trim more at the bottom as I probably overdid it at the top. But as you said, the top goes under the bell anyway. Just 2 quick progress pics: The forearms almost done (just have the cover strip setting up) and the thighs done in the front. I'm holding off on the back until I try the whole lower section on to see if I need to trim more.

I'll get some new pics up soon. I'm finishing up the forearms, I have the fronts of both thighs done, and started on the biceps. What do most troopers do as far as return edges on the bicpes? In this pic from the tutorial section, it looks like edges have been preserved, but in most recent builds, it looks like the opposite is true....

Great! As it were, I may not need to go that big. With the front finally secure, I taped the back and tried on the left thigh. I have more room than I thought. I can slide my hand in along the side and when I push from the back, you can see the gap (sorry for the blurry pictures in a dirty mirror). I think I may actually trim them down closer to an inch.

No, there won't be any gap between the two sides. They will close. But I'm leaving the flat section at 1 1/4 inches for fit overall. So I put a 7/8 inch cover strip over the 1 1/4 inch flat section in the back, correct? I appreciate all the help Germain. I know I saw that picture before in my 'studies' but I never would have remembered it!

The more I look at my ATA thigh pieces, it looks like I'm going to have to leave the ridges in the back at about 1 1/4 inches instead of the preferred 7/8 inch. I have thin legs, but this kit definitely runs on the thin side. Anyway, which is the preferred way to handle this: (1) Cut cover strips that are the same width (i.e. 1 1/4 inches) so that the ridge is covered the same as with the calves; or (2) Stick with 7/8 inch cover strips and allow the ridge to show on both sides? I've seen advice both ways. I've been working on the thighs and forearms at the same time so I'll post some new progress pics soon. Which reminds me, is there a distinction between the left and right forearm? Shins and thighs are easy to distinguish but I'm not certain for the forearms.

Congrats to you and the family!

The ATA helmet in wonky, but in a way that its supposed to be. I had the same fears about the back. There is nothing wrong with trimming multiple times, but you can never take it back if you cut too far! Remember, you will have the S trim covering some it it. Hold off final trimming until you get an idea how the front and back are coming together. Then put the trim on the back and just make sure you don't have any rough/unfinished mold sticking out. After that, its more a matter of what feels right. Remember, that is a snug fitting helmet and you will likely have to turn it sideways (so 1 ear is in front of you and 1 behind your head) and rotate it as you put it on. I'll give you the link to my build, but if you skim through the ANH build threads and the Assembly threads, you'll see quite a few recent ATA helmet builds. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23391-ibnzbass4-stunt-build-ata/page-4

Got it. Thanks for the info.

Is it normal for one thigh to be longer than the other? After initial trimming, my right ATA thigh is almost an inch longer than my left. It might actually get in the way of the abdomen/crotch. Is this normally trimmed to match?

MTK is Trooperbay. Same place where you can get the decals I Listed above. His is a relatively new kit, and he's got a good rep here for TK accessories even if his TK kit has not been put on the vetted list. ATA has a long wait, but Terrell is a top notch seller to deal with and his kit would be in your price range as well.

Kyle, I'd say just stick to your own advice here. Don't go for the quick kill. Personally, I'd stick with one of the vetted dealers so you can purchase without fear of what you are going to get. There are option out there that are quality and within your price range. I'd hate to see you invest a second time and still get burned. The process may take time, but it'll be worth it. IMHO.

Thanks guys. Shouldn't be a problem. I have a variety of different length pop rivets.