DroidHunter

So 10 mm from the edge, space them out evenly and don't bunch them up -- bottom one probably covered by belt. Is that about right?

Forgive me if a diagram like this has been posted already, but I can't seem to find one. Also I am at work, so I apologize for the crude picture. I am trying to make sure I get the placement correct on my split rivets before I put them in. My understanding from various Centurion and EIB builds is the the rivets should be 10 mm from the edge and evenly spaced. Are there any guidelines beyond that, such as how faw to place them from the top and bottom edge ("A" and "D" above). Should that also be 10 mm? I assume naturally that "BB and "C" above should be equal, but is there any specified distance? Or does that depend on the kit being built? If this has been specifically answered before, you can just smack me and point me to the post. I could not find it by using the search function. As always, thanks in advance!

Are you still looking at ebay kits? I really think you should go with one of the lower priced kits from vetted sellers (all still high quality -- lots of current build threads available to look at).

I take it the boiling water did not affect the glue from the front cover strips and sniper plate?

I read that armor bites happen a lot here so I knocked the return edges way down. I have to trim more at the bottom as I probably overdid it at the top. But as you said, the top goes under the bell anyway. Just 2 quick progress pics: The forearms almost done (just have the cover strip setting up) and the thighs done in the front. I'm holding off on the back until I try the whole lower section on to see if I need to trim more.

I'll get some new pics up soon. I'm finishing up the forearms, I have the fronts of both thighs done, and started on the biceps. What do most troopers do as far as return edges on the bicpes? In this pic from the tutorial section, it looks like edges have been preserved, but in most recent builds, it looks like the opposite is true....

Great! As it were, I may not need to go that big. With the front finally secure, I taped the back and tried on the left thigh. I have more room than I thought. I can slide my hand in along the side and when I push from the back, you can see the gap (sorry for the blurry pictures in a dirty mirror). I think I may actually trim them down closer to an inch.

No, there won't be any gap between the two sides. They will close. But I'm leaving the flat section at 1 1/4 inches for fit overall. So I put a 7/8 inch cover strip over the 1 1/4 inch flat section in the back, correct? I appreciate all the help Germain. I know I saw that picture before in my 'studies' but I never would have remembered it!

The more I look at my ATA thigh pieces, it looks like I'm going to have to leave the ridges in the back at about 1 1/4 inches instead of the preferred 7/8 inch. I have thin legs, but this kit definitely runs on the thin side. Anyway, which is the preferred way to handle this: (1) Cut cover strips that are the same width (i.e. 1 1/4 inches) so that the ridge is covered the same as with the calves; or (2) Stick with 7/8 inch cover strips and allow the ridge to show on both sides? I've seen advice both ways. I've been working on the thighs and forearms at the same time so I'll post some new progress pics soon. Which reminds me, is there a distinction between the left and right forearm? Shins and thighs are easy to distinguish but I'm not certain for the forearms.

Congrats to you and the family!

The ATA helmet in wonky, but in a way that its supposed to be. I had the same fears about the back. There is nothing wrong with trimming multiple times, but you can never take it back if you cut too far! Remember, you will have the S trim covering some it it. Hold off final trimming until you get an idea how the front and back are coming together. Then put the trim on the back and just make sure you don't have any rough/unfinished mold sticking out. After that, its more a matter of what feels right. Remember, that is a snug fitting helmet and you will likely have to turn it sideways (so 1 ear is in front of you and 1 behind your head) and rotate it as you put it on. I'll give you the link to my build, but if you skim through the ANH build threads and the Assembly threads, you'll see quite a few recent ATA helmet builds. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23391-ibnzbass4-stunt-build-ata/page-4

Got it. Thanks for the info.

Is it normal for one thigh to be longer than the other? After initial trimming, my right ATA thigh is almost an inch longer than my left. It might actually get in the way of the abdomen/crotch. Is this normally trimmed to match?

MTK is Trooperbay. Same place where you can get the decals I Listed above. His is a relatively new kit, and he's got a good rep here for TK accessories even if his TK kit has not been put on the vetted list. ATA has a long wait, but Terrell is a top notch seller to deal with and his kit would be in your price range as well.

Kyle, I'd say just stick to your own advice here. Don't go for the quick kill. Personally, I'd stick with one of the vetted dealers so you can purchase without fear of what you are going to get. There are option out there that are quality and within your price range. I'd hate to see you invest a second time and still get burned. The process may take time, but it'll be worth it. IMHO.

Thanks guys. Shouldn't be a problem. I have a variety of different length pop rivets.

Germain, did you use washers for the pop rivets? Doesn't look like it from the picture. I'm definitely going to use this method for the holster and the belt itself so it can be separated from the plastic and washed.

Do you have a picture of that setup that you can post?

Done. As of now you're tied for fist place!

I don't think I was being clear. The distance from the ridge of the flat area to the pencil line is 7/16 inch. from the line then to the edge is about another 1/4 inch. Ideally, I'd cut the rest of the 1/4 inch off leaving 7/16 on each piece = 7/8 inch or 22mm. But by leaving the area from the pencil line to the cut edge in place for a bigger thigh, it ends up around 1 1/4 inches total.

At your height, a number of guys go with RT-Mod out of Canada, but check out this Centurion build. He's 6'1 and 190 and he made the ATA work. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/25603-tk-31198-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-ata108/

Good info. Thanks Germain.

Working on the thighs and trying to decide how much to trim down the cover strip in the back. I always thought I had skinny legs, but its starting to feel like I should leave the back at 1 1/4 inches. That will at least visually keep them almost consistent with the backs of the shins, while leaving me a little more wiggle room. You can barely see the pencil lines on the backs which would be the 7/8 inch cover strip marks.

That's why I left the back a bit larger just in case, and it turns out I may need it. Its more a question of how the thigh pieces should fit. Are they supposed to fit snug? Should there be a lot of room? I know its comfort more than anything else, but just asking to see if there is a general rule of thumb.

How tight/loose should the thigh armor fit? I'm 5'10" and weight about 170. I have pretty skinny legs. But even so, I trimmed my AT A thighs down keeping the front at the recommended 7/8 inch 20mm width. But the back feels tight at the top if I use the same. Right now I am trimmed down to about 1 1/4 in the back. Seems comfortable but I know the thighs will round out more after they are glued so they might loosen up. Is there a good rule of thumb on sizing?