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drscifi

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    44
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About drscifi

  • Rank
    Corporal
  • Birthday 07/18/1983

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://drscifi.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rancho Cucamonga
  • Interests
    Science Fiction, Podcasting, Apple, LEGO, Writing short Sci-Fi, Star Trek: The Next Generation..... and Star Wars!

Standard Info

  • Name
    Darren
  • 501st ID
    88800
  • 501st Unit
    Southern California Garrison
  1. This is so helpful. I want to make one for K-2SO to hold. Been eyeing this since the trailer.
  2. Yeah. That's one of the reasons I moved the selector switch is it would have been covered by the added counter.
  3. I ended up just glueing the DD one over the existing one. I can always pop it off to replace the batteries if I need to in 3/4 years.
  4. Part 4 The Ammo Clip Marking the cuts for removing the clip part to add the full DD part. Lots of scoring and snapping with a hobby knife. Now that the piece can be held closer I can fine tune the cut. Better to make 10 small cuts than 2 too large cuts. Getting there. Lots of test fitting and trimming now. A perfect fit. It's pretty flush all the way around. It does tilt a little up on the far edge but I'm ok with that. Super glue all the way around and I added a small piece of ABS plastic for extra support inside. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part 5 More Details & Painting Started cutting away the front of the scope to replace it with the DD piece. Not too bad. Took a bit more of a chunk out than I wanted to. I'll fix that with some black tape after final painting. I'm still thinking of just adding the DD counter on top of the built in one. I like it's look better and it's not super noticeable. Getting ready for painting. Covered up the LED's to prevent any overspray from covering them. In hindsight I should have also covered the selector switch from the outside or removed it before painting as now the when in the stun mode the trigger is intermittent. Ready for a coat of Rust-Oleaum Hammered Black. The same I used for my Hasbro E-11. A light coat of black. Be sure to spray sparingly and far enough away to not drip the paint. Looking pretty good. I've also reglued the T-Tracks by this point after the painting. I re-installed the clear light tracks after painting as well. I left the grip plates out during painting. I think they will look better their natural unpainted texture. You can see there was a little bit of overspray inside after painting. Still working on the switch issues for the stun setting. Dry fitted with screws back in. I got this far before discovering the switch issue. I'm waiting until that is fixed before gluing the few outside elements that would make it hard (impossible) to separate the two halves. But at least the blaster mode works great. Should be good to go for this weekend's troop. More work tomorrow night to finish it up. TK-88800
  5. Part 1 Some exploratory disassemble and figuring out what exactly I want to change. All of the screws on the blaster are the same which makes it very easy to reassemble later. First thing I did is cut off the orange plastic tip. I will eventually cut the entire nose area off to replace it with the DD (Doopy Doos) barrel. This blaster has 3AAA's in the counter as opposed to the 9V in the handle of the old Hasbro E-11. There is also the switch from Blast to Stun. The blaster opens up very easily. There are some loose black parts that come right off without screws. I started on the non electronics side to be sure I didn't damage them. Two screws remove the reflective light channel. I cut off the tip as it would be too long with the new barrel i'm adding from the DD kit. You can easily pop out the tiny T-tracks with a hobby knife. I discarded these T-tracks as I'll be using the ones I made for the Hasbro E-11. I cut and smoothed the front of the barrel for adding the DD piece. The process is repeated on the electronics side. You need to remove one screw on the LED assembly to get to the light channel track. One thing that I'm not a fan of is the loose trigger. It bounces around a little. Need to add a spring or a rubber band to keep the pressure on the button stud but not press it without squeezing the trigger. I popped out the back sight. Still considering using it or cutting the one off of the Hasbro E-11. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part 2 Moving the Blast/Stun switch. This is one of my favorite parts of this new blaster But I need to move the switch to the pistol grip. I found that an 11/64th bit will drill out the new hole for the switch perfectly. On the inside I marked where I wanted the switch to go. It will pop out just below the fake collapsed arm rail. Perfect to reach with my thumb. Used a hobby knife to clean up the hole into a rectangle. I ditched the white switch extension. As the blaster will be painted black anyway and the switch will be mounted flush with the outside skin of abs. I couldn't reuse the mounting screws as they would go deeper than the outer shell. I superglued the switch in place. Then replaced the trigger electronics and orange trigger itself. I'll paint this part separately before final re-assembly. You can see the switch is just visible and is easily reached by my thumb. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Part 3 Deciding what parts from the DD kit to include. These are the parts I decided to move over to the Disney E-11. Here is the front with the original tip cut off completely. Here is the DD barrel tip on the end. It makes the LED a nice circle when it projects on the wall. It's a little large but I can live with it. My first thought for the ammo box was to just attach the clip part. But i've since seen some people who removed the entire Disney E-11 ammo side and added the DD to it. I think i'll go that route too. The counter will be tricky. Part of me just wants to add the DD counter on top of the built in one but I may need to come up with something from scratch. The scope can be cut right off and the more accurate DD will be installed. The back lower part fits well. The D-Ring covers the speaker hole but it can still be heard well. It adds some more bass to the sound. I may mount the speaker facing forwards instead to channel it out the front. I sliced off my home made T-tracks from the Hasbro to reuse. I may remake these but we will see. So that's where I'm at so far. More work tonight. TK-88800
  6. I just picked up the new Disney E-11 and I love it! I'm about a third through my conversion but I've been taking photos of every step. I've been using my Hasbro E-11 DD for almost a year but have removed most of the DD parts to use on the new Disney E-11. Also, there are several other great Disney E-11 mod builds popping up here on White Armor. These fans each have their own wonderful take on our favorite blaster. Check them out! Scott - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30848-howto-mod-the-new-disney-e-11/ David - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31272-disneys-new-e-11-mod-build-my-version/
  7. Glad this post was helpful. The Pelican case was given to me by an LA bomb squad friend. Otherwise I would have used a Home Depot bin. Pelicans are nice but they are not cheap. But the nesting techniques can be used in any sized bin.
  8. So after finishing a ANH TK and a MSE-6 mouse droid I needed a new build project. So i'm making myself a pair of binders. Acquired all of the pieces form Home Depot. Assembly will start in a few days and I will keep detailed notes here on whitearmor. TK-88800 and EP-1C The raw parts for my binders. One of the main reasons I wanted to do this project was in response to the growing number of troops where it is so/so on having your blaster out. Big events with a lot of kids, at schools, etc. So this way I can have something on my belt and still get some great pictures.
  9. I am finally getting around to this bin packing post. Hope it helps with inspiration for your own bin. I was extremely blessed to be given a Pelican 1660 case. http://www.pelican-case.com/1660nf.html I installed some coroplast dividers and 1" white foam from walmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Poly-Fil-Nu-Foam-Pre-Cut-14-X14-X2-FOB-MI/32856780http://www.walmart.com/ip/Poly-Fil-Nu-Foam-Pre-Cut-14-X14-X2-FOB-MI/32856780 The dimensions: INSIDE: 28.20" x 19.66" x 17.63" (71.6 cm x 49.9 cm x 44.8 cm) OUTSIDE: 31.59" x 22.99" x 19.48" (80.2 cm x 58.4 cm x 49.5 cm) It's smaller than most bins yet I fit everything inside it. I have my FISD and EPIC stickers on the front, still need the 501st and SCG ones to finish the top. A look inside, the coroplast dividers cut it into 4 quadrants of different sizes. There was some preexisting foam in the lid so I cut that out and riveted some velco straps to hold my E-11 blaster in place. This works very well at saving space. Here is everything with the towel padding off. Let's walk around the bin. Top right has my thighs with the calfs nested inside them. Top left has my boots with my thermal detonator/glasses case inside one. My folded canvas belt and permanently attache holster are folded over the boots. Bottom right has my helmet inside a pillow case. I wrap my shoulder bells in a towel and either stuff them inside the helmet or in the corner created by the dome. Bottom left is where the real nesting begins. I break apart my torso and nest my arms inside it all. Lets delve into this nest. First my chest plate. Then my back plate is next. My but plate on top of that. I store my modded cod attachment here, keeps this area from pinching more than the elastic. Next the forearms. Placing the left forearm into the right bicep and vise versa. These pack up nicely and are folded in a towel. That towel is added to the stack. Then the entire stack is placed inside the turned up torso. Extra little bits like gloves, hand plates and electronics are in zip lock backs placed in the free space on top of the thighs. I hope this helps give some ideas for your own bin. Make it your own and have fun.
  10. I have seen Echo's bin in person, it is quite impressive. Here's mine. I was extremely blessed to be given a Pelican 1660 case. http://www.pelican-case.com/1660nf.html I installed some coroplast dividers and 1" white foam from walmart. INSIDE: 28.20" x 19.66" x 17.63" (71.6 cm x 49.9 cm x 44.8 cm) OUTSIDE: 31.59" x 22.99" x 19.48" (80.2 cm x 58.4 cm x 49.5 cm) It's smaller than most bins yet I fit everything inside it. I have my FISD and EPIC stickers on the front, still need the 501st and SCG ones to finish the top. A look inside, the coroplast dividers cut it into 4 quadrants of different sizes. There was some preexisting foam in the lid so I cut that out and riveted some velco straps to hold my E-11 blaster in place. This works very well at saving space. Here is everything with the towel padding off. Let's walk around the bin. Top right has my thighs with the calfs nested inside them. Top left has my boots with my thermal detonator/glasses case inside one. My folded canvas belt and permanently attache holster are folded over the boots. Bottom right has my helmet inside a pillow case. I wrap my shoulder bells in a towel and either stuff them inside the helmet or in the corner created by the dome. Bottom left is where the real nesting begins. I break apart my torso and nest my arms inside it all. Lets delve into this nest. First my chest plate. Then my back plate is next. My but plate on top of that. I store my modded cod attachment here, keeps this area from pinching more than the elastic. Next the forearms. Placing the left forearm into the right bicep and vise versa. These pack up nicely and are folded in a towel. That towel is added to the stack. Then the entire stack is placed inside the turned up torso. Extra little bits like gloves, hand plates and electronics are in zip lock backs placed in the free space on top of the thighs. I hope this helps give some ideas for your own bin. Make it your own and have fun.
  11. I use this method for mine. Works like a charm. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/293-howto-garter-for-thighs/ 3" black elastic around the waist and makes V's to your thighs. He has lots of pictures.
  12. Just finished the La Verne 4th of July Parade video! Enjoy! http://youtu.be/i19IaXtsurg What a fun event with an amazing turn out! I love being a part of the 501st!
  13. Looks very interesting. Thank you for the links too.
  14. Requesting 501st access Southern California Garrison TK-88800 Darren Moser http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=17215
  15. TK-88800 reporting for duty!

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