DroidHunter

Same here. Toggle switch is in tube near ear.

Can someone refresh my memory on the current thought process for rear thigh cover strips when you have a trooper with large thighs? I know the rule of thumb used to be, if the two halves close together then keep the cover strip at 20 mm (or 25 mm) regardless of how wide the flat section is. Doesn't matter if the flat section is wider than the cover strip. Is that still true? Second, suppose there is a gap in the back of the thigh even after leaving all of the extra flat space intact. You need a cover strip wide enough to cover the gap, and thus can deviate from the 20 mm. But how wide should the strip be? Should it be just wide enough to cover the gap, or at that point do you just extend it all the way to the edge of the flat section? My assumption would be to keep it as small as possible.

I highly recommend buying a few extra of any rivets (split or cap) that you plan to use, and try a few practice ones on spare ABS. I broke two split rivets before I got the hang of installing them. For the price, if you haven't used them before, get a few extra of each.

Since all is the kits can be customized to fit a range of sizes, it's hard to pin each one into acceptable chest, waist, etc measurements. So the key is that there are some kits built for body builds that differ from the 5'10" 170 lbs screen trooper. RT Mod is really for tall troopers. If all you need is a bit more roominess, consider MTK, or AM.

I did not have to heat bend the belt to make this work. It had enough flexibility on its own. For the holster, I used Chicago screws so that it can be removed as well.

That's how I did mine and it works well. But a word of caution: When you measure the two side snaps, drill the holes in the ammo belt, then bend it around your waist with the canvas belt before marking off where to make the holes in the canvas. If you line it up flat, the snaps will have more preassure on them when you put it on and wrap it around your waist. I made that mistake, and while it still holds, I have had the snaps pop open and just resorted to anchoring the ends with elastic. Does that make sense? Attach the center snap, drill holes on the ends of the ammo belt, put the belt on and mark the canvas with a marker while wearing it.

Is that a screen grab from the movie, or a stunt picture? I'm trying to discuss this issue in my garrison.

Looking great. Nice build going on here.

Looking good so far. That gap more than acceptable.

I saw that originally on comicbookmovie.com.

Looking good. You can't escape that larger right forearm on the ATA kit. All of us ATA troops have it. You just have to pad it out a bit to keep it from rattling around.

I want to check with some of the old pros here. Are the tube stripes on the correct sides?

I have a friend who is putting together a helmet for a TK build. He accidentally cut the s trim short and had to put in an extra piece behind the vocorder. Thoughts on future approval? I'll get a pic up later.

It all depends how confident you are in your build. I did it all with E6000, no matter the size or difficulty. I liked having the ability to reposition. But this was the first project of such a magnitude for me so I felt better going slow and having a safety switch, so to speak.

E6000! Great start to your build. And to answer your question, I made bicep hooks for mine.

Looking good so far, but you should work on the teeth summer more. Not just squaring them off, but making the holes bigger in general.

Looks a little light and a little orange. There are variations in shading, but you may want to get some Rit Dye and color it. Just be sure to wash and dry before cutting or coloring

Anything you need Tim, and you know we're here for you!

Last episode has a TK with a white one.

Bring it on!

Cheers to all!

That's the Rubies set, isn't it?

It is hard to say exactly, to be honest. Some of the fitting certainly comes from the internal strapping system that you use to hold everything together. But the fit depends in large part on how the armor pieces fit together. For example, the shins, thighs, forearms and biceps are all rigid pieces after construction that you slide your arms/legs into. No amount of strapping adjustment will prevent a large arm or leg piece from being to large. You can pad them out with foam to a certain extent, but if you need too much padding, it may not look right. Now, depending on how the armor was constructed, you may be able to un-glue the pieces, cut them down to your size, and then re-glue them. So it all boils down to how big the size difference is, what kit was used, and how the armor was assembled.