The5thHorseman

Ok, i understand. Indeed swapping for pop rivets once everything will be in place will be a good thing

Excellent result!! Really, really nice blaster! You went so fast with such a nice finished piece, that's impressive Now you just have to send it to me as it looks like you used my TK ID in the counter

When i told you to use the screws, i was referencing to the ones holding the ears, not the ones locking the faceplate into position. On the films it wasn't screws but rivets which locked the Faceplate and the Back so they couldn't use them to affix the lense

Don't forget to paint those screws in black, it will be more accurate

IMO the fit of the torso looks good. But indeed, arms and biceps seem kind of wide. But someone should really tell RS how to assemble a belt! I mean, they have (had?) an original one but on their belts the drop boxes are always misaligned and the end caps always misplaced...

I might make the jump as well one of these day (But i have a Snowtrooper to build before !)

Careful, pic HEAVY! Hi, I'm just making a little update to this thread as this pas WE i finally decided to weather my TK in a more Tantive IV look to give it some life . Hanguards, even though i won't be using them that much longer Even the hook is weathered! (just kidding, it broke during a troop ) No picture of the helmet as the weathering is to faint for pictures Good day everyone!

Great progress, i love the tip of writing the onset gluing time on tape near the cover strip Yes and the fact some armor makers have same shoulder bells for both shoulders just drives me crazy!! You can't adapt rightly a right shoulder bell on the left shoulder, it's just impossible!! Grrr, i hate the AP shoulder bells...

That's scope is... gorgeous!! And your rail seems perfect now, good job.

Looks perfect! In term of closure strapping i would recommand the hooks, accurate and extremely efficient. It's a bit tricky to put them on but once you got the technique it's really good. And don't forget, it's the outer half of the shin which covers the inner

Looking good! Good luck ! The only few things i would improve for EIB: - If you could bring your thighs up i think it would be a good thing. Even though you don't seem to have much room in the back so it might not be possible. - Also I think you will be ask to repaint your ab buttons, right now they're a bit too little Reference: And yes, for Centurion you will be asked to move the holster snaps to the 1/3 inferior of the belt.

I'm always quoting that: it's better to have a wrist gap than an elbow gap! Unfortunately i couln't find the proper pic showing it in the "Photo References" section, so this time i spend some time to make that screenshot. And i think it's pretty obvious when you look at those two troopers : (just don't mind the popped out belt!) And it looks like you nailed those biceps!! Great work! Fast and efficient

In fact the rail should be one solid piece (except for the counter bracket which can be apart). But i think it's ok for a basic approval as it is right now See this thread if you want, it helped me a lot to do mine: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/4697-howto-make-a-metal-scope-rail-counter-bracket/

I've already heard of this type of putty used in model making but i've never used it personally. I think it's mainly used for filling small gaps/interstices so i guess it should do the job

It's more like the "baboon" helmet to me , but don't get me wrong, i like it!! Good luck on this project!

Nice work so far! I love the fact you're painting your parts as long as you finished them, i think it's the easier way to go. The only things few things that could have been better are: - when you hollowed the stock you took too much out for me. In fact the hollowed area consists in two different parts fitted into each other but the indentation is present only on the outer part (i did the same mistake ). But don't worry, nobody will noticed that, especially once painted . Or if your skilled with bondo/milliput you can still resculpt it. - And the front sight could be narrower and the top should be a little oblique and not straight. Very minor flaws so don't bother too much, it's just me being being perfectionist Keep one like that!

The top doesn't really matter as most of the time it will be under the shoulder bells, just leave a little one, especially at the indentation area.

Well, in term of accuracy, i would tend to even it. Also, strange thing that you have taken out all the return edges on your forearms but you care about this one .

Congratulation on your EIB! However i still think you need to remove your shoulder bells black straps wrapped around you biceps:

Sometimes the brackets aren't placed exactly on the return edges but in the corner, so you don't need that much of a return edge ------------ And sometimes they even aren't placed at all on the return edge, like the one near the date on the pic below:

Looks good so far. Having no return edges won't prevent you from getting Centurion, in fact having none at the bottom of the forearms is required . Removing the one on top of the inner half helps preventing armor bits so it's a good thing to remove it. You could just have left some on top of the outer half. The shape of the top opening isn't a problem to me, and if it becomes one you could still reshape it with boiling water or using an heatgun (carefully though). Keep that cadence and the armor will be finished soon

I think you should really start gluing halves together. It's been the most time consuming step to me, e6000 takes forever to dry.

Very bad right now ! No standard pop rivets to affix it. Using CAP rivets is the best, but you can also use Split rivets or solid domed rivets. Don't bother aligning the thigh's front cover strip with the middle ammo box, the most important is the rivets placement. Both rivets go through the upper corner of the knee belt wings to the bottom ridge of the thigh. Then you can glue the front to avoid shifting if you want. Rivets are painted white. And if the ammo knee belt makes a 45° angle with the thigh it doesn't matter, it just happens sometimes. Like the one on the right of the picture below:

In the end, just do as you prefer, it's your helmet!!

Looking at the position of your ears i'm almost sure you'll be able to use them to set the lense in place You can also do like Alexey did, it's a nice way to do it but it's less accurate (if you care about it). Also if you do that way the lenses will be tight against the whole eye opening, whereas with the original way to do it, the lense isn't flat against the bottom corners of the eye opening which help with the air circulation and preventing fogging.