The5thHorseman

I remember having done one some time ago. It will never worth a good reference picture but perhaps it's more appealing for a new member.

I'm curious, what glue did you use for the counter plexiglass?

The problem is that the sketch from Bill (DroidHunter) in the first post is wrong. So sticking it would be "dangerous" in case people would stop at the first picture they find.

13 figures instead of 15; no letters... ...who cares!?! That's so freaking cool!!! . You are really nailing this Doopy kit!

I've got a good feeling about this . Looking forward for more progress!

Yes i saw that the ear positioning is different, but as each helmet is unique it's always very difficult to recreate a perfect match with a screen-used helmet . BTW your lids collection on the background of some pics is awesome!

RT-mod is made for tall people, i assume that's why the shoulder bells are a bit longer than the normal. Their height location is good, however it's very hard to say if you should trim their bottom or not without a proper picture of you with your arms at side and not bent like on your pics. Edit: In fact looking at them once again i don't find them that much long. So i wouldn't trim their bottom.

I've learnt A LOT about Luke's specifications reading your thread (i wasn't there when SW1 made his ) so thank you, i much appreciate that you've shared your work about it The only thing i find a bit off compared to Luke's armor are the tube stripes. The front stripes (near the vocoder) don't bend really like on Luke's helmet, especially on the right cheek.

Top of the thighs are squared: However, the top of the thighs back cover strips are usually adapted to the armor curves.

Well, you might need to buy a new Sniper knee plate, not because of the fit, but because it looks like you have completely removed its top return edge which shouldn't be the case:

Being unable to have access to a heatgun and being reluctant to buy one i ended up using my toaster to heatbend some of my parts . I wouldn't recommand it though, you have very little to no control on the heat. Instead i think you should look for a bucket large enough to contain enough boiling water to immerse your parts. Boiling water is hot enough to soften the ABS, but certainly not enough to warp it so it's kind of safe in the end.

I agree with Nick and his cut lines, don't cut the top of the thighs. It would solve one problem by creating another one.

Your drop boxes are a bit misaligned, they should be aligned with the ends of the ammo belt: But apart from that it's really looking wonderful

Yes that's exactly what i mean! And sorry for my english i kind of struggle with words today

I would also advise to set the abdominal rivets first. Because of the cod piece which ends along the abdominal section and where there's no rivet, it creates a shift on the kydney's rivets at the bottom.

Actually i did like you when i weathered my scope, tuning down my weathering with a succession of black washes until it blends very smoothly with the black. But now i'm not so sure about it, i think it should be a combinaison of some weathering done this way (weathering of wear) but also of some chipped off paint localized at the exposed areas (scratches weathering). So even though i like this version, i also think your first version of it was really interesting.

I knew for that helmet and i agree with you to leave it like that, but i think remember that Steve have asked for a trooper to modify it for his Centurion application.

Nice, is it a kid kit? More seriously though,looking at the picture i think you should lengthen a bit the three straps between the abdominal plate and the chest plate. Right now, because they're too short, they're pulling the abdominal plate down creating a shift at the side junctions and a gap at the crotch. Unfortunately with your height you will have much difficulties keeping the abdominal buttons fully uncovered. Once again, using Luke's reference, it doesn't look silly if the ab buttons are half covered

Absolutely nothing should prevent you from getting Centurion and so on EIB! Your armor is really wonderful, and the pictures are gorgeous too! In fact the only thing that might be a concern is your ear bumps rank painting. Our DO may require for both painted black bumps to be the last one. The biceps and thighs sizing shouldn't affect your application, but i agree it would be good to resize them when time will come.

BTW, Minuteman has done an excellent diagram of the different armor makers family-tree. You might be interrested in reading it if you haven't already done it : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26414-trooper-armor-familiy-tree-an-experiment/#entry333188

You didn't understand me, i wasn't criticizing the fellow troopers who bought from NE but the armor makers of NE. Period.

Also keep in mind that most of the guys who sell those kits do not do it on their free time. It's their living! How would you react if someone would steal your job without being able to do anything against it?

These are even better for ESB: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26361-fs-sets-of-esb-silkscreened-styled-decals/

Actually, some suits had this front snap on the right shoulder of the chest plate

In addition of the 501st approval, i'd like to add that this armor is FISD approved Congratulations Diana!