The5thHorseman

Ok, so if I trust the pretty hair, your son is Adam Driver. You could have told us that from the beginning! Vest is looking jolly great. Well done Tony. I love this kind of pionner work.

Hey Heston, just to let you know that I'm now totally fine if you want to use my hollow version of both hengstler and magazine. I'm working on an update now, but should be online today of tomorrow if you want to have a look.

ABS is really stretched at this point of the kidney plate, and the more it's stretched, the thinner it gets. So nothing unusual here. So be careful when trimming like you say.

Ah ok, I didn't understand correctly. No the gap doesn't matter at all as it will be facing inwards and barely be visible at all.

Actually, you don't really want any return edge on top of the inner half for the forearm. There's nothing against it in the CRL, but removing it will dramatically reduce the risk of pinching when you bend the arm, making the armor more comfortable to wear. For the inner drop boxes, if the fit is really not tight enough to glue them directly, you could make few "L" brackets out of ABS scraps to get more glue surfaces.

Yeah, the fit over the PVC tube by the end cap should be extremely tight. Don't hesitate to warm the whole end cap before pushing it over the pipe to avoid any crack to happen to it.

Is it an AM2.0 with NE parts? Because that could be quite interesting then. To compare what is actually the same armour with different level of sanitising.

Go with a girdle system. The thighs are the very first thing you put on when you're suiting up, and you want to be able to keep them in place so you can put your shoes and shin armors after. If the thighs were held by the abdomen plate that would mean that you need to either wear it before or after sliding the thighs, and then you would loose the ability to lean forward for the rest of the leg parts.

Of course! I don't see any reason why you couldn't. Alternate hand plates are well accepted now, even for Stunt armors, and you have done a great job with your molds. They certainly look like the part.

I hate a no voting electoral system. Now try to ask me to leave Tony . And I know I'm weak, I didn't manage to squeeze in the "s". It's harder than what it seems to find a word beginning by "vos". More seriously about your "kidney issues". Like Paul and others have already said, the shape is actually okay, and the melted edge has no real impact because this edge is going to be removed with the trimming, as you don't need very much of a return edge on the sides.

You can believe me when I say they're silver, I've been real close to what seems to be the real thing. And by "real close", I mean close enough to take pictures like that : Now I reckon they're promotional blasters, but all the other details were matching the ones we know were screen-used, so I think they're reliable in term of referencing.

Excellent work! I love these alternate hand plates. I think they look slicker than the regular ones.

Indeed, consistency seems to be a real issue for those TFA blasters. I guess that with the wide amount of blasters they have made, it was inevitable. I went back over my reference pictures and some of them seem to have a white scope rail indeed. But the major part of them appears silver : --------------------

I love your willingness to update your current offer with extra accuracy enhancements! Blaster looks even nicer than before, and I'm glad those stickers worked out. Just one thing, the rear section of the scope rail (the bridge starting from the rear sight) should be silver. It seems to be white at the moment.

Yep, I say it's looking great. The rim around the button plate is good, teeth on the helmet are squared as they should, ears are nicely trimmed and fitted, ... Move along!

There's always slower than oneself! A shin is better than nothing, after all. So keep it up, and eventually you will see that your armor is finished .

If you have left around 8mm around it, you're good. The picture makes it indeed hard to see.

25mm for the front and 25mm for the back sounds acceptable to me. Remember those are average measurements. The cover stripes used for the original armors are sometimes over the 20mm mark, and sometimes below it. But I would use a 30mm cover stripe for the back only in real need. i.e: cover an actual gap between the two halves. Good luck with that AP mk.II build! Edit: One thing I've noticed. You seem to have taken too much when trimming the abdomen button plate. There should be a small rim all around the raised section:

Exactly the kind of pictures that ends up right away on my hard-drive! Thanks a lot for sharing those. They're extremely interesting, and like Paul said it, I could stare at those all day long.

Gazmosis, here on FISD also make some really nice holster time to time. They're made in a nice study leather that keeps its shape when the blaster isn't in it. It makes things much easier when you want to holster back your blaster.

Actually, the reference picture above has been taken by me during a troop in Paris near the "Galleries Lafayette". So far, it's the only reference picture I've seen showing the back of the tactical stock. So I modified my design to reflect that. My point is, while we can't prove the movie prop has a smooth back, we can't prove either it has texture to it. However, we can prove that at least one promotional blaster has a smooth back. Which is better than nothing . Now good luck with the sale Heston, blasters are looking great!

Great job guys! And I love how you positioned that brow. A nice breeze of change among all those lame low brow helmets .

Yep, that's the theory. Not an easy patching work, but that's what you need to do right now.

What a dush! Those frogs... They're really all the same... Just kidding . I hope both your armors are ok.