Dday

If you want accurate, this is not the blaster for you. The base blaster is ok but the options are all over the place. The power cylinders are wrong, the wires are wrong, the scope is wrong, the counter is missing the bracket, magazine is missing the ejection lock, it's good enough for your layman who doesn't know better.

There are people who will sell you a perfectly cast resin bolt. Now you don't have to make your own, or copy someone elses.

Ok, limited 5 spots available at a really reduced price to help get the project moving. Post here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31986-episode-7-tk-helmets/

You can also click the button just above in your edit bar when you're replying/posting. IT looks like a light switch. Click it and it gives you pure code and you can use img tags there if you're having trouble otherwise.

Even with overlaps, you can still open them. It's actually easier. Just separate the overlap and glue it down wider. There will be a gap at the very bottom visible on the ridge but a lot of screen suits do this and I seriously doubt Centurion would be a slowdown.

Depending on the size of the cover strips you can get a good 5mm opening up the back and just reglue them down with the little gap. The gap won't be noticed and shouldn't stop you from applying. As long as it's not a huge 1CM gap. Even then, you could add a piece on the top and bottom to just cover the gap, instead of having add a ton of material in and filling.

If you're looking for tracks go to wannawanga.com Roy has the most accurate tracks on the market at a great price. Or send a message to sskunky here on the forums, he has tracks that are a different shape vs Wannawanga, but still very serviceable for blasters and much lower in price. It's all about price vs accuracy here, the choice is yours.

I'm in Germany, so it's bright and early for me! I'm not currently taking the reservations just yet. I want to be able to give a solid timeline before I start making promises I can't keep. I will keep the first run tight so that I don't get so far down the line I am not able to produce in good time and having people waiting for a long time due to unforseen problems or something. Once the first run is out, the following runs will be there to ensure everyone who wants one can get one, and the turn around should be fairly quick.

I will surely get to making one! The real question is when will I get some time to do it. The first 3 castings are reserved but I plan on doing a run of 10 beyond this to start. No signups yet but I will likely be doing an opening phase for this to help cover costs of the design and creation of the prototype and molding. It will be a special introductory price for those who are wanting to jump on the front and wait a little longer while it is produced but in turn save some hard earned money. Details to follow as soon as the design is finalized once more with some new details., but not in this thread....

Hi John, These are great suggestions however I will be offering these as a kit at first, and a painted version a little later. The interior finishing will be left up to the buyer. As the first waves go out, I may look into integrating some options like this.

I'm busted! Another reason why copying someone elses work can lead down the wrong road, real references are the only way to go

Best screenshot evar!

Proud to have contributed to your costume! You wear it really well. If you decide on centurion, the cod rivet... ok, wipe the paint off

The only differences attached to the HWT that don't fit for ESB is the frown color. Since the holster isn't present for the HWT, and ESB holster easily slides off. I can't speak for it being approved though, since thats not up to me. I'd approve it if it were me though.

My guess is that the warped back will not stop 501st acceptance. I'm really assuming that they will not have this in their final product as it's a bit unsightly.

We can't take anything from their prototype photos. They are photos of a suit but maybe not the suit they will use. It's basically a placeholder set of photos.

Or a forum that can handle the volume and database better.

I will talk to roy about doing a quick rotational render video. The plan is to drop it here a few days before giving the go ahead for machining. Hopefully this allows any detail freaks to help out. Roy and I have combed over this really solid but another set of eyes is always appreciated.

It's in there, towards the end.

Ahh, thank you for the clarification!

Please criticize!!!! Constructive criticism is the way things get done. Great eye for detail there as well. They are indeed not on this model but will be on the next version that is being worked on before production in the coming weeks. These are used as airvents. Under the nose piece are some slots for air near your nose. The white nose part is raised with those channels to allow air to escape. We will be replicating this on the model as well.

If you are at a canon event you will not be allowed to have the numbers on your shoulder. Other events are ok, but some people frown on them, and some people don't care. The UKG uses Aurebesh, and not normal numbers I believe so it doesn't look like just numbers.

If AM has updated the chest to fit the shoulder straps and to make the general shape more accurate, this will def be a great kit for people of all sizes.

The 3pc makes it easier to take off the buck. There are lots of people doing the 2pc and they do it just fine. the originals were also this way and it's just a better way to build em. IF you know what you are doing there is no bad thinness in the 2pc pulls.

Yup, he did! Well, now he has a real parts bapty, pretty rare there.