Dday

Hi! It looks like you can drop the return edge on the thighs some, this will let them slide up higher as well, so there isn't much of a gap between the lower ab section and the top of the thighs.

Roy and I are working on a newer version, tweaking a few small details you might or might not notice. I'll update the thread with new photos once they are done. For Roy, a masters work is never done!

Bootleg... pssshhhh

You an submit for approval prior to the CRL being out. I believe it's up to the legion membership to decide at this point if it's approvable. Once a CRL is done it can be approved by the garrison level. Correct me if I misunderstand the process.

The trooper helmet is an anovos recast, it has to be, all of the tells from the anovos helmet are in this one.

Wow, this is something that is seriously needed here, can't wait to see your files!

The sizing was based on first a gut feeling compared to the other parts of the armor and their sizing, and trying to get a similar sizing to the original TK helmet, but a few % smaller. Once the C7 photos came out of the 2 screen used suits Roy was able to run lots of overlays of the photos to get the shape and sizing relative to the other parts and their known sizing. Comparing it to the ANOVOS helmet, I'm not sure. From their details they scanned one of several different helmets made for he production and I read somewhere there are several sized and versions of the helmets. It is possible they got a larger size to scan from. Our ultimate model was the 2 helmets used at C7 on the display with the orange background.

Well, it's not very good compared to the anovos or film helmets. There are too many inaccuracies to list. I'm not sure if it has any lineage to who made the original master, but in general the shape and detailing is off.

$175 for a finished, $100 for a kit. Not bad really. I'm sure they are looking for volume. They won't make a loss on them. The plastic and parts needed to have a helmet can't be more then $50/$60 or so. The rest is work but if they have a buck with several helmets they can form at one time, it's easy enough to mass produce. The build price at $75 is about right. So they aren't taking a loss but they aren't making a huge profit. Volume will bring them the profits they are looking for.

I've never noticed any problems with heat making crazyness when using E6000. I apply it liberally to the plate and snap, and clamp it on tight. I don't think the E6000 has the same chemical reaction by generating heat. The snaps are usually nickel coated so likely doesn't cause the problem. Be at ease.

They look pretty good as they are. There were some minor corrections that were needed when I went to the machinist and comparing them to an on hand sterling, but they are really close.

It's ok in general, but it's got some real accuracy problems in the detailing. I'd take a resin over this any day.

This is also something I was wondering about. Fading over time especially in such a high use scenario like the helmets are in.

Don't we have all of the external details form the zillions of photos of the 2 original suits at C7? It should be pretty easy (mostly) to hammer out a baseline from these?

The goal is both. Right off the bat they will be only kits as I will be shopping around my area to find a show/person that can do the paint professionally and without such a crazy price. I have a few choices lined up for painters but I"m just waiting to have a finished casting in hand so that I can have him do a test paint. The kits will include all the detail parts but will leave the internal parts up to you, as in how you get it suspended on your head. Once things get going I may look into adding a suspension system, but I've gotta get started first

Also, the #2 option is very "hands-off" I heard it picks up finger prints like a champ and is not very robust so will chip away almost by looking at it?

Hi Germain, The mesh is just in rendered in there for the look. I will be having a sheet of mesh laser cut to match and I will add it to the master before casting. If you notice, the mictip also sticks out a little far in the rendering. This is also no issue since it's a completely separate piece and once cast will fit in just right. Roy has also made some minor detail changes on the latches. Thanks everyone for the great comments on the model. We're both really excited about the project and hope to be able to get these in the community soon (ish - thinking July timeframe).

So, it is done. This will be sent to the printing company to make the master. It will be done in 4 parts. The main body of the helmet, the nose plate, the mictip and the 4 greeblie latches. I'm pretty frakking impressed by the work that Roy has done on this and hope to be able to do his design justice! No specific timeline yet on when I will start offering these, I need to see what the timeline for producing the prototype, as well as time to prep/mold it, and then to test out the first few casts to get the process just right, and the quality of the helmet right for production. Stay tuned as we go for the details on the molding process as I will put that all here. Once I'm satisfied with the molds, I'll open the interest/runs, just be patient with me

So, I've been doing some thinking about this and I'd like some of the heavy hitters to weigh in a bit. I have seen the charts, but not been able to find all of the discussions. Is there a definitive answer on what black was used? Is all the black used Humbrol 85, satin black, or Humbrol 21 Gloss black? The majority of helmets I see build use Humbrol 21 for the pinstripes, vocoder and mictips. The paint sets from trooperbay and other sources sell humbrol 21 but not 85. (Maybe it's not easily available outside of Europe?) Some variations use Humbrol 33 flat black for the vocoder and 21 for the rest. So what is the answer here!?

This will be quite the paint job!

We have made some modifications to the design based on some additional details and enhancements of the public photos of the screen helmets from C7. Standby for the final model coming very soon.

Using a part from an AR15... there is going to be some crazy uproar from the anti gun groups! Boycott TFA! Well, not me, I like guns.

Looks like a champ! Lucky bugger

You mentioned it not being accurate when it's flat, this isn't so! There are Hengstler 400's with a domed cover as well as a flat cover. The ones with the flat cover are nearly even with the level of the plastic housing so it doesn't stand up like the domed ones do. So flat is also accurate, but it will just need to not be as thick.

I'm not making armor but I would guess it will be in the same range as your TK armors, or a little big higher because of the additional pieces. Thanks Paul! Roy is really knocking this out of the park. Right now he is working on recreating the sculpt based on the new photos we have of the screen suits and fixing the proportions.