Dday

b grade hyperfirm all day long.

Most helmets are big enough to fit all sizes of heads. If you really need a bigger helmet, I believe Rt-Mod helmets are a few % bigger vs the normal ones.

WANNAWANGAAAAA, just do it, you won't be sorry.

I reported him for the same sale on the RPF as well, admins there have no tolerance for blatant recasts, he should be shut down shortly I would imagine.

I think basic 501st approval says it can be dark brown/smoke/black or green or something along those lines.

I've never found even in heavy trooping that inner strips were needed. E6000 and outer stripe hold it pretty darn good.

Normal metal drill bits and household battery powered drill will do it. But if you don't have those, this makes it harder

You need 5 posts, so post some good stuff in a few threads and you're good.

Looking food! I really like this design! Most of the classic TK details there, just stylized to be more feminine!

Awesome! Glad you got the stock fixed up! I've noticed that a couple stocks have warped during transit, likely due to excess heat somewhere, but glad you got it fixed. A heat gun is really worth the money when you build these things! I noticed you decided to glue the counter on the alu bracket? You should drill 2 small holes and screw it on with the of the small screws that came with it. The glue might hold, but a screw will hold 100%

I'm selling off my preorder as well, I can use the funds and would rather pass the savings vs just go a refund. The catch is you need to buy both of them at the same time, since I ordered 2.

Hi Jefferson, You have a couple of options for finished ready to trooper blasters. It comes down to the details. If you're interested in a aluminium and resin pipe build with parts cast directly from sterling parts and looking as close to the real deal without converting your own sterling, I've got 2 builds ready to ship. You can find the details in the junkyard or PM me for some details. Both are light and robust. If you end up with broken parts while trooping I replace them for free for as long as you own the blaster.

If it still smells, the glue hasn't cured yet. Are you sure it's from the glue though? The scout helmets are generally fiberglass, and the smell might be from this, or the paint?

Very nice! IT's awesome you're adding in these additional things to make this a very accurate build!

"sniffing glue" comes to mind.

I'm interested on how you formed the visor as I"m about to start my own process using an aluminium buck, but still gathering how other people did it

What I would do if they don't lay flat is hit them slowly with a heat gun and hold them down with your fingers to get them flat on the tube. Another option is to put a rubberband around the tracks at 1/3 and 2/3 length so they aren't too close to the ends. then hit the tracks near the bends with the heat gun, again carefully and not too close, this will press them back into shape nice and flat.

Quite a price to pay for a helmet that never made it onto the big screen. Well, at least if it's a maker, they can make some copies after fixing up the missing parts, maybe they will call you in for this Paul! Most likely a private collector though.

You are right, there were a lot of different setups for ANH. The CRL is setup to be a general reference, but does not and can not cover every variation possible. I think Gazmosis would be the best guy to contact through PM to see if he would accept the stripped down M19 version, since ultimately he has to make the final decision.

Thanks Fergus!

The gloss white should gloss itself up all by itself. If it's not, you can try like wingnut said, car wax and a buffer. Otherwise I'd say strip it back down and start over, making sure you prime it really well. In order to coax a shine out of something, you can take a wet 1000 or 1500 sandpaper and lightly sand down between layers. This will make the next layer pop much better. Prime, sand, prime sand, paint, sand, paint sand, paint, clear coat. Should do it.

If you are using a rear strip for the reinforcement it would work, but it will look bad on the front. Unless you fill and paint the front edge to cover the seam between the two parts, it will look pretty shoddy. Even if you made it look good, you're not likely to get 501st approval unless it has an overlap or coverstrips.

The only problem with this is that there is no zipper to take a leak.

Have you tried to clearcoat it? It looks like it was HIPS or polystyrene or something like this which is very bumpy and will take a bit to really get it to shine. I dare say you might need to go over the entire thing with a good filling primer, wet sand it down to get a good smooth surface, then another few coats of gloss white and a clear coat.

I've got rear sights molded for the sight at the 100 and the 200 mark. I've never been able to get a real answer on weather it was one or the other. With the sight at the 100 mark, it gives the exact height (I feel) for the scope rail. With the sight forward at the 200 mark, it gives a very nice guide to drill the hole down for the scope rail. What really matters though is that the ribs on the sight face back towards the wielders face.