Dday

I agree with you Funky. The only other possibility is a RS, since they are very similar in their accuracy if I've actually paid attention, and have it right.

Yeah, that over the shoulder grab is the hardest part of the entire dress-up I think.

The Hero seal will be taller in the back with more ribs, as well as having a longer bib in the front and back but not covering the sides. Check the CRL for the specifics, but you will need to get a hero seal to really do the setup right and get centurion. There are some photo references around (I don't have a link sadly) of the hero seal and bib. The seal you are wearing is a stunt seal, has the same number of ribs all around and probably only has a very small ring of fabric under it.

Dispatched means they took it outside and blasted it. Seriously though, hope you get it soon, it's a great kit.

Looking good man! If you find that after a few motions, your shoulder bells are rotating back to much (leaving to much black) you might consider taking the snap plate out of the groove and pitting it just forward of it's current location. This will make the strap pull it forward and will close the gap some. The gaps look good right now on your kit, but I found after moving a bit the gaps seemed to be open more, so I shifter the snap plate location forward to fix it. It probably isn't screen accurate the way I did it, but it helps keep the gaps closed. If you don't know what I mean, let me know and I can go into the basement and snap a shot of my shoulder bells.

Nada in my lid, just head padding. The foam star I use comes down a little near the ears, but are completely trimmable.

As Mathias said, the split rivets on the left side are great when setup functional. The only problem is that the suit can't come apart there any more, so if you need to pack it up really really tightly in a limited space, you won't be able to separate the ab and kidney pieces. Weigh the options, functional or not, but regardless, you can get your centurion, they just need to be there and be split!

I find the thicker the better, it means they are stronger and are less likely to crack. Also they are easier to control as there is more to hold onto.

It is down to prop replication vs costuming I believe is how I was explained it. If you want to do a specific trooper, gather as much reference material and go with it. The problem is that it is likely not approvable beyond basic acceptance. The additional levels are for a certain category of costume based on the most prominent examples available in the films.

I got the white rubber ones vs painted latex. I wasn't sold on the latex paint coming off and needing to be reprinted, even if it is accurate.

So, Post what type of things you are looking to sell? Warm up our appetite for the for sale post

The top is already up in your waist, and is much less noticeable once it's on. The bottom however is a different story. Take a look at how a few other EI/Cent with RT mod handled it in their pictures. It's really down to align the bottoms, then trim the top slightly so that it doesn't look so off at the connection. If you are using coverstrips, this will help mask the fact even more that you trimmed anything, and clamshell evenmore so.

They are the XL shins. I would be hopelessly lost without them!

Hahahah, beautifully put!

Yeah, align the bottom, then trim the top to match closer.

Yeah, all of the screen accurate lids are warped and do not look right when you examine then closely for spacing and evenness. Basically, as long as the edge of your eye pretty much lines up on both sides with the trap on the dome, you've got the right placement.

I used Eastbay brand for the tops and bottoms, and I think shrinking is inevitable asI get older, but it shouldn't be dramatic for quote some time yet... I'm not what what I am looking at in your link, I see a cross strap with a button. Maybe you oculd explain what you have done for me as I am thick of head. My friend did the pictures and he has a super amazing camera that he does quite a few professional shoots on, so I'm pretty happy getting some free shots!

Yeah, ditch the back panel, the clips you can make with 1 or 1.5mm aluminum strips and there will be no need for that back plate. There are a few how-tos based on making you own TD clips.

I echo the above comments. How your buttons got moved around is a mystery, and the colors are off based on the picture I can see.

Agreement from me on all points. The shoulder bells are a bit far out, so I will be redoing the strap to take the extra inch off. I'm a little worried I might be pulling the shoulder strap out a bit much by that also, so when I revisit the shoulder/chest strap I will see what I can do to ensure the shorter shoulder strap doesn't pull it out of whack. I think my biggest complaint about TM was that it's not made for 6'6" (198cm) people! Wow, what was Paul thinking, making his suit for normal sized people and not me personally? ... Yes, the chest ab straps are under a lot of stress, and the only way I could think to fix that was exactly as you said, add about an inch to the back/shoulder strap to let the chest come down a little. This will most likely be split between the back and front since they both have an equal amount of pull. I will have to experiment with it. Already I've got only 4 ribs on the shoulder ABS strap to the front, and 4 ribs on the back ABS strap, so I don't want to go to far or it will ride to low, so I will play with the positioning some to get it to sit right.

How do your shins actually grab into the holes for closing? You glued them so far back how do you get them into the holes?

The funny thing about any makes is that none of them are 501st approved as advertised, not TM, not RT, not ATA, not some bad FX recast. Most suits are 501st approveable, but it's all dependent on the person putting it together. Someone can do an ATA suit and not get it approved. It's about the fit and build for the individual wearer. Mathias is right, there really is no way to get ebay to really do anything about falsely advertising 501st approved. The only way to get the seller to stop selling them is to leave quite a few negative feedbacks, then ebay will ban them. However, you have to buy the suit first to do that....

The separate vocoder and ear bars are not normal. This is a very old recast of a FX, I'm pretty sure. I had the same armor, and it's the pictures that Mathias posted. It looked good to me at first but now that I have done more research, I can see how crazy different it is, and how inaccurate. I was recently at a troop and there was an independent trooper there wearing this type of suit and since I had a helmet on I was was able to look at him and really examine the details of the suit without letting on I was really staring at him. The suit is very inaccurate, and from the get go, looks odd, even to an untrained eye, but you can't put your finger on it unless you've done the research into the suits and how they are supposed to look.