gmrhodes13

Depends on the area, I used E6000 on areas that would need some give, like the shins and forearms and JB weld for a more solid join yoke, abdomen, biceps etc. JB weld can be sanded too which is handing if you've applied too much or used to fill gaps before ABS slurry (or filler paint for some)

I find elastic is great for hard to get areas, gives you some slack when twisting your hand into that position. Some use it as an extra connector but can just be cosmetic, called the "Han" snap, some references

Hello and welcome aboard, there's a big difference in sizes of armor so take that in consideration when researching

Imgur playing up I think.

Please read the first post in this thread, you must add a link to your legion membership

Hello and welcome aboard

Ci sono state solo poche persone che l'hanno costruito There has only been a few people who have built this

Purtroppo non li faccio e in questa fase non ci sono altri fornitori, mi spiace Unfortunately I don't make them and at this stage there are no other suppliers, sorry

Hello and sorry to hear you will be selling your TK. You can advertise on this forum but you need at least 5 posts to be able to access the For Sale area. Wishing you best of luck

Nessun produttore li fornisce attualmente. Potresti costruirne uno tuo No maker supplies these currently. You could build your own

Side shims are looking good. NOTES ON BICEPS: In the original films, many of the biceps had an indentation, or "thumbprint" (normally worn only on the left) on the inside. As the biceps are interchangeable, this is not a requirement for any level. Coming along nicely.

Incorrect link, that is going to your 501st forum profile, you want your 501st membership profile, have a read of the first post again. You can also search here https://www.501st.com/holocron/member/search, just add your TKID

I covered mine in silicon so they don't catch, I have seen others cover in gaffa tape. This is one of the tricky areas, takes some practice but you should be able to get them on, I normally leave a loop of elastic on one end which helps give something to grab on to.

Congratulations trooper and welcome to Expert Infantry and the EI Honor Gallery

Incorrect link, that is your legion forum profile, not your membership, please read instructions in the first post

Please read the first post of this thread, you need to add a link to your 501st legion profile

You could reduce the amount of light with a resister, you don't need much as the main glow is very central https://www.instructables.com/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/

If you have some photos of the issues it may help us help you. Info on adding photos here

@NoVATie will be along in due course, you can also contact James @jsilvius that you will be ordering once you have detachment access.

Just one thing for higher levels: OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Normally we use white elastic to connect the chest to backplate under the shoulder straps Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders. As seen in the images from screen used armor below, this ideally must be approximately 2 inches (48 mm) wide.

Hello and welcome to the forum, for TD's head to MEPD https://forum.mepd.net/, Walt's armor is for ANH or ESB. As for accuracy there are other kits out there more accurate, but many are happy with their armor.

For me 120 is a little coarse and I'd start with something around 180 or 240 using wet and dry with water. ABS paste can dry a different color compared to the ABS and you are sanding through the gloss finish of it. I had a similar issue with my TFU armor, I ended up using some waterbased acrylic paints and mixing to match the color of ABS and dabbing on in a few of the darker areas.

I glued on the sides as well as the front as the front wasn't laying flat.

That helmet line takes up a lot of space, I use a 5mm piece of foam at the top of my head and a block of foam on each side in front of my ears to stop any wobbling, may be worth trying that. E6000 is pretty easy to separate, usually just needs a little force but sometimes running a knife between can also help remove. Fans could come off the sides and put further forward, in the recess around the mic tips. Having the big battery pack on the back also reduces available room, I use 2 4 x 4AA battery packs in the lower cheek recess on the sides. I would try your liner first then see how much room you have to play with.