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gmrhodes13

Detachment Staff[Staff]
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Everything posted by gmrhodes13

  1. You will find that the thinners in the blade putty will react with some primer, usually when they are on thicker areas, depends on curing and weather too, hence why it's normally used as a final fill
  2. Some do decide to cut off the access as they can cause armor bites if left. If you do trim you can leave a little material then use an iron to push over the excess to make a return edge so it finishes nicely. This thread using a sealing iron but I have used a regular iron before with baking paper so it doesn't stick to the plastic.
  3. If you use masking tape a great tip is to spray a light coat of white first, it will fill any areas that will bleed with white, then simply go over with the top color
  4. There are some pretty old threads floating around in the forums, some have been able to source from rubber specialists in the past but with most suppliers adding them to the kits these days there isn't a big demand for it, I guess Trooperbay or start searching through rubber suppliers.
  5. A very tedious job, nice work
  6. Looking forward to seeing the progress, good luck
  7. Hello and welcome aboard, lots of research ahead of you, head to the Getting Started Section, will get you well on your way
  8. All previous updated A few more Butt joining am armor, restored by gmrhodes13 Thermal detonator assembly, restored by gmrhodes13 T-21 Build I'm bored , restored by gmrhodes13 Zeroroom the best sterling templates ever , restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16417-butt-joining-am-armor/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32042-thermal-detonator-assembly-apte-how-to-assemble/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21392-t-21-build-im-bored/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16705-the-best-sterling-templates-ever/
  9. You'll definitely find you will receive more feedback posting separate image links into your thread, if you use the "direct link" and paste straight in you should have no issues.
  10. Using a double snap system inside can be the difference from not trooping to trooping, occasionally a snap can fail and if you don't have a spare your day is done, a little more work but can pay in the long run. I lost a shoulder strap snap and if it wasn't for the extra snap I wouldn't have trooped You can use what every you like inside the armor as it is not seen, many use velcro and it works for them, I prefer snaps and elastic as it has some give and stays in the exact same place each time I put it on, well until the elastic stretches over years.
  11. When in doubt check the gallery sections
  12. I would suggest having a look through some other 850 build threads, also check out Tony's Anovos build, very similar There is also the gallery section for references of the costumes https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/27-tfa-tk-reference/
  13. Really depends how long you have had it, I go through them pretty quickly, I don't even buy the real Dremel brand now and go for the knock off type, they seem to last just as long. These days they through so many electronics into these tools that most of the time you can't even find out why they have stopped. Don't think I've ever gotten to wear out a set of brushes in them yet. I guess it comes down to continuous use and heat, I don't think they should be used for long periods, have a break to let them cool in between can help. I also have 3 with different attachments as I hate to stop to swap them out
  14. Many of use use an online image host, a lot go for Imgur, info here Some great threads for helmet assembly
  15. That snap is just a detail you also add strapping behind
  16. That's what I use as a final fill for larger spots after spray putty but you'll find the spray putty will cover and fill more compared to primer and is a lot easier to sand than the glazing putty
  17. Just occurred to me are you using a spray putty, it is a lot thicker than a primer/filler and can really save some time fixing smaller holes and scratches. I prefer to get it in tin form rather than spray can as you can really apply quite quickly and it is also works out a lot cheaper, I use a cheap home electric spray gun as it will apply thick compared to normal auto spray guns, I think it cost me @$25 on aliexpress .
  18. All previous updated A few more ANH paint color guide, restored by gmrhodes13 How to paint great circles on ab buttons, restored by gmrhodes13 How to Leather Holster restored by Sly Next level pvc mannequin, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39650-anh-paint-colour-guide/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36717-how-to-paint-great-circles-on-ab-buttons/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23643-making-a-holster-for-anh-stunt/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37841-next-level-pvc-mannequin/
  19. Hello and welcome aboard. They should not overlap, one side butts up together with rivets and the other butts together and has a single snap at the top on the right side. Generally armor should fit a persons body but on some occasions depending on frame it may need to be either sized or padded. I am quite thin so I have some padding in the arms and behind the ab plate. Here is some references: When in doubt it's a good idea to check the Gallery section for references
  20. Had a discussion about this a few weeks ago, yes it was in The Mandalorian which gives it some status but at the end of the day it is RS armor so really it's up to the buyer I guess as to how much they think that is worth.
  21. Nice work could you also post up some updated close up images please Sniper plate both sides Thigh ammo strip rivet Butt plate snaps Ab plates Helmet sides and vocoder Ab plate side top snap Ab plate side rivets Belt
  22. Getting closer, keep it up
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