rhapsodyred99

Predalien64 is also out of business unfortunately.

The ANH kit is based of a sterling L2 A3, which is great for ANH and ESB, but in ROTJ the blasters were based off of the Model Gun Corporation (MGC) sterling, which was a model of the Canadian Arms version of the sterling the C-1. Depending on how closely you wanted the blaster to be (I.E. is close enough ok?) you could heavily modify a droopy kit. But the MGC is really different from an L2A3 once you start looking at the little details. Finding a MCG for less than $1500 is going to be tough. Actually finding one for $1500 is going to be tough. Scifire still does a hyperfirm version which should be pretty darn good if its anything like the ANH version they do. Greeblies are the litle add on things on the side of the blaster that serve no purpose other than to add interest to the gun. The door catch and hammers on the side of a ROTJ for instance. I got my Greeblies from here and they are ok. ill look up the seller. Edit: Smitty sells resin ROTJ greeblies. Slavefive is the scifire guy http://www.sci-fire.com/

I will be getting a finished anh stunt fishpond from rs on e they have get to it. I am leaning towards making my pvc helm an esb version. Does any one make proper decals for the rs?

no it is not true ANH armor (check the RS props armor that is directly cast from the Vintage ANH suit they have) has an attatched cod and it IS off center. It also has the divit as described under the 4 buttons. Many many threads on RS suits and documentation from thier own Vintage ANH suit. Here is another shot showing a beat up ANH Torso. This is a sandy suit torso, that a kid has colored with marker. This is the RS torso.

yeah before I glued the two pieces together I tried them different ways and it looked to me at least that they had marked mine correctly. It really did not seem to matter which way I put them together, but I did not think about the sniper plate. Then last night I tried to fit it and was like...the hell? I suppose I could pull them apart and try the other way, but I will probably just glue the plate on the shin that it fits perfectly and switch them on the costume. Its the shin part that is extra long that throws the sniper plate off. I should have glued them as you did. I still might. I used e6000 so it wont be that big of a deal.

Have you fixed your sniper plate yet? I have found that as we have our shins atatched the sniper plate fits perfectly...on the right shin! The left shin with that sort of curve out from the top of the coverstrip throws the sniper plate off. I am thinking of just fixing it to the right shin since it fits like a glove there and just switching the legs I put them on. In other words they have R on one set of shins that the plate fits and L on another set that the plate really does not fit on. So Ill just pretend the R is an L and fix the sniper plate on it...

I wish we could get UK deactivateds in the US. Ours are either so cut up as to be unrecognizeable, or rewelded onto a solid steel bar that makes the thing weigh in at somewhere between holy crap and oh my freakin gawd!

Maybe you will get lucky. I ordered mine about the middle of June and got it about the first week of july.

My rs suit has shoulder straps at 1 3/4 The smalla elastic is 5/32

check this one: http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2011/07/joe-grine/gun-review-century-arms-international-wise-lite-arms-sterling-sporter/ little cheaper here in the USA (about $600) of course the front is not the same, but if you wanted it for a blaster should be easy enough to add a resin front or a part from a sterling parts kit there.

I got my doopy doos from their dedicated website, did not even know they had an ebay store. On the website it specifically says do not order from Ebay as there are a ton of cheap recasts. Anyhoo I got mine about 3 weeks after I ordered it here in the US. I am amazed at the detail (I own a real sterling and also a Hyperfirm). I ordered the doopy before I was able to source the Hyperfirm I wanted to carry fro trooping (no way my real sterling will leave the house!) and by the time the doopy got here I already had the amazing hyperfirm, I think I could through the HF across the room with no worries. That being said the Doopies is ALOT more resilient seeming than other resin things I have had. I plan on turning my doopy into an ESB version once I can get the right greeblies. As far as your original post, the first blaster is funny, its a sterling L2A3 (not the MGC copy of the Canadian C-1 Sterling), with ANH t-track and scope, but with ROTJ greeblies... maybe someone wanted to showcase the transition blaster from ANH to ROTJ that somehow skipped ESB...

I recently purchased an eagle Hengstler and while great it has a flat lens and no hengstler 400 written on the front. Is there any where I can get a replacement front part? Thanks,

I think it looks great. Surprising really that we have not been able to run down what was used for the film. I wonder how uncomfortable a latex choker would be? Great for display anyway!

The edges on the belt from RS are not hemmed i guess the word is. The sewn edge actually leaves an untreated "frayed" edge out. Its about 2 and 3/4 inches wide or 70 mm. It is made by Clothears Costumes, and they used to have a great picture on thier site, but they have recently changed it and its not showing pictures for some reason. This is from RS Propmasters Website that shows the "frayed Edge" I was trying to describe.

Yes three dimples which correspond to the black marks on the canvas belt. I have not attached mine yet, but the three dimples match the three black dots on the canvas belt where they tell you to put the rivets. Paul I was going to use this as a guide (found it in another belt thread is this one wrong? Based on this template, if I trim my RS belt to have an inch and a half between the last box and the edge, the dimple they have placed (and the black dots on the belt) is 3/4 of an inch in. Until I saw this thread I thought that made it correct...

I can see not replicating every flub or miss because in ANH especially there are all kinds of flubups (open shins, missing stripes gaffers tape etc.) But to me since there are so many examples in the film of a "clean" e-11 it seems that they would be an option. They obviously were not ALL flub ups. The promo shots have the Hengstler, but in the movie quite a few of the troopers guns do not, and Luke's blaster does not. There is precedence for clean E-11's. I know the CRL's can not take every possible variation into account, but I think for ANH anyway it should be noted that Hengstlers are optional. But I also think the bubble lens requirement on ROTJ troopers is strange since we have lots of shots of Endor troopers with flat green lenses.

Put me down for your second set Andy! My real sterling with real M38 and Real Eagle Hengstler needs a screen accurate mag Cylinder set...

If you are going to sell these improved sets please sign me up!

RS says: The finishing cover strip is 20-23mm. If it makes you feel better, they are not very square and can be 2mm out along the length of them. If you are a bigger guy you can use this to add a little to the front. As they own an original suit...\ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19674

I am currently Building a RS ANH suit and two things it has taught me is that A: its nerve wracking trimming expensive armor and gluing it together, and trying to make it screen accurate down to the strapping. and B: I won't have the time for the ROTJ build I wanted to do afterwords. CFO offers an assembly service however, so I was wondering if folks could tell me who have used this service (or maybe assembled their own) what the inside diameters at the largest part of each limb piece are. I am 6 foot 1 inch and have a 38 inch waist. My arms are not super muscular, but they are not twigs either. MY weight, like most American males is in my gut, so I know Ill have to add a few inches of Shims to the sides (RS suit looks to need about 2 to 3 inches on each side), but I am hoping not to have to shim the limbs. Biceps Forearms Thighs Calves On the untrimmed RS suit I can fit the arms and legs but I think that may be because I was able to leave more than was on the original suit. Mark has offered to leave the backs of the limbs open for me to add shims etc which I may take him up on, but if the existing measurements work ill get him to fully assemble it. Thanks!

For the hands on my Duct tape Mann I traced my hands out on foam about an inch or so thick, then outlined my hands with a coathanger. I then taped the foam to the coat hanger at the fingertips and shoved them in the golves. The fingers can then mold around whatever. I used the long rubber gloves so they went tightly into the forearms and hold the Hyperfirm great. I would not but my real sterling in there, but the lightweight one is fine. I got the hands idea from someone here on the boards but I forget who now... ahh here it is: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12509&hl=manne&st=40 TK_Leper

Yes I am currently in discussion with him about Armor, just working out the details. Never occurred to me to ask him about a blaster... I see sci Fire still has their Hyperfim ROTJ versions, which I may get if I troop as a ROTJ trooper (how do you find out the number of ROTJ troopers vs other types? On the 501st page I see tks but they do not seem to be broken into types...) But for display I want a 'real" version next to my "real" anh deactivated sterling Version. Thanks for your comments they were quite helpful. I Knew iN my Heart of Hearts L2A3s were not going to work for true Jedi Build but I had hopes lol.

I found some better pictures and Unfortunately the L2A3 parts though very similar do not match up to the Canadian C-1. The grip is nearly identical with the exception of the flat serial plate on the L2A3, the stock is very close but not exact, and the end cap is totally different. The MGC version is even more different. I guess a copy (MGC) of a copy (C-1) is far enough removed as to make L2A3 parts usable for a "close enough" build but not something I would be happy with. I do think you could probably score the Canadian c-1 parts that occasionally pop up and be very close to the MGC, but Alas if you want the best you can get then you have to find an MGC. I guess I knew this but was looking for a cheaper way out. I was hoping to stir some activity on ROTJ Blaster building as no one seems overly interested in them.

when I said "the film" I meant ROTJ. I know that only MGCs were used for ROTJ. However MGCs version of the sterling was based on the Sterling that was created for the Canadian Military. The C-1. The MGC made their own version based on the C-1, but as it was a model of a real gun, the details differ. That is what I meant by the real Canadian Sterling C-1 Looking different than a MGC. You can get a deactivated C-1 If you look hard enough, but the MGC is nearly impossible to find. Here are the details on the Real Gun the MGC was based on: http://www.uzitalk.com/forums/showthread.php?9144-Canadian-Sterling-C1/page2 and even better http://mpmuseum.org/securweapon.html So I was not saying that real SMG was used in Jedi, I know it was not, I was simply saying the MGC that WAS used is so hard to find that I was looking at the real gun the MGC was based on which is easier to find. Looking at the real c-1 Sterling it seems to be very close to the L2A3 parts for endcap, stock, Handle, and clip holder. Thats what I was saying. I never meant to imply in anyway anything but a MGC was used for Jedi, or that it was used in in any other movies or films than Jedi. Sorry for the confusion

I still think it funny in a sad way that a "fake" gun costs more than a Real sterling...well a real deactivated Sterling which I guess is in itself a fake gun....now I have confused myself I suppose since not as many MGC's were made vs. the good ol L2A3 it makes sense. I even looked at a "real" Canadian C-1, but it looks to me like the Canafdian version used the same handle, stock, end cap, and clip holder as a normal L2A3.