rhapsodyred99

The RS lids are molded from an Original ANH lid. The ears have depresions in them that are where their lid has the screws applied. You can not get much more original than a direct mold from a real prop. My Rs right ear has the same low screw on the top, as do all of the PP lids etc. If someone is going to hold up your application because of this I have to call foul. The stormies on screen had hastily put together costumes, I bet someone with photoshop skill could put a whole montage together and the screws would be in slightly different spots on all of them. If my approval gets held up because of a low ear screw on my RS Built PP Lid, Im going to just say "screw it" badump dump...I want a prop replica and I will not be moving up the screw and filling in holes because someone thinks its a little low and it was put in the original holes spot! My self made PVC lid has the same low screw, I wont be moving that one either.

yes if you are just looking for a quick halloween costume, then you can spend less money on a recast fx or even a used FX suit that most of the public is going to think is a dandy Stormtrooper. The point of this site and the 501st in general is supposed to be to help people have movie quality costumes, and once you embrace the hobby, you realize that there is a vast difference from a prop replica and a costume. Its possible to have a cheap costume, it is not really possible to have a cheap prop replica. As Locitus says, prop replica Armor makers either spent considerable time on sculpting and researching the suits themselves not to mention making the forming tools, and forming tables, and buying plastic that very closely matches the original, or went to considerable expense getting a hold of actual props that they were able to cast from, which still involves alot of clean up, mold making, and forming tables. There is alot of work on the back end of it as well, cutting out the armor etc. If you are going total prop replica with accurate strapping and cover strips for ANH that takes a ton of work, and time. I think it sounds like you ar emore interested in a costume than a prop replica, and there is nothing wrong with that, just be aware that most of the cheapo costumes on ebay are poorly made/formed recasts and are pretty grossly inaccurate to anyone that knows anything about "real " stormtrooper armor. If you are headed to a party i'd say no one there is going to know anything about it, and it is not like you would be in a line up of 4 or 5 501st troopers in prop replicas that would show how off yours would be. I have an old suit of FX armor, when I put it next to my RS or CFO it looks terrible, but for years I loved that thing. good luck!

and the tag 501st approved is false. You would have to get a new helmet, and new belt in the least. much better to buy from a vetted seller here.

This one! He cleverly modified a store manny. I need to find some time to do that to mine! http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20308#entry248618

I can vouch for CFO. I just got a suit from Mark, and unless you can get a rubies for 100 bucks I just can't see how you could look at that thing and buy it. Just be aware your body size may make a difference. For me I am on the larger side and somewhat muscular. No I am not a heman, but I am not a stick either. The CFO suit is cast from a real ROTJ stormtrooper suit which was made for guys about 5'7" and about 150 pounds. So while the torso can fit becasue there are alot of adjustments there, the biceps are snug, and the legs require shims for me to close. If you are a bigger guy you may want to look at RT/mod, or a combination of CFO/RTmod. I can attest to the fact that even though you want a suit as soon as possible and you want to get crackin and get the cheapest possible, you will find unless you just want a costume, rushing things will cost you more in the long run than slowing down and spending the extra money to get a great suit. Rushing things and trying to cut corners will make you unsatisfied and the amount of work you will need to spend to make yourself happy with the suit will be discouraging. It really comes down to if you want a costume or a Prop Replica. as mentioned above there are some great venders that offer quality suits that are not cast from a 'real" trooper suit and are a little cheaper/allow more wiggle room in fitting. I have an FX suit I bought from galaxy trading way back when it was really the only option. After I found this site, I started looking at the work it would take to make it as good as some of the other suits here, and I quickly discovered that what I wanted was a Prop Replica and NOT a costume. It was easier for me to just buy quality Armours than to modify the FX. Ill probably sell my FX on Ebay closer to Halloween, because to me it looks like a costume now instead of a stormtrooper, and it looks 1000 times better than that rubies monstrosity (once i tossed the FX bucket and added a TE lid).

Would not have mattered with cfo. The way the armor is made the molded in overlaps only make for so much play. You have to be twig legs or else even if you get it untrimmrd the molded overlap will still be there and still look wierd. Rotj isnt like anh you can just pop a coverstrip on. I knew this when i got it and had skunky add some extra plastic to act as shims for the legs. Cfo is molded from screen used made for lil guys so us biguns jest have to take our chances if we want screen used.

ROTJ uses overlaps not coverstrips for screen accuracy, and I am in the same boat with my CFO armour. The arms/chest ab fit great, but the thighs and calves are several inches at the widest off. Those darn English 80's actors must have had twigs for legs! I used ladyInWhite's method for my RS props ANH armor and it worked well, but for ROTJ If you want screen accuracy you are going to have to put that wide thing in the back when you wear it. I had thought about RT mod legs, but they do not color match.

ok i need set of decals for my RS PVC helmet for ESB. Hook me up! RS says they are working on them and hope to have them soon, but these look great!

poor guy. wheres that forever alone picture to post here....

I agree my RS PVC is great. Takes alot to put together and is pretty daunting if you get an untrimmed version and like me. you are totally new at it. In retrospect I would have had them build it to my measurements. They are very busy though and can take a bit to get back with you.

I'm pretty sure this is someone directly associated with SDS. The more he says the more I am convinced of it. lets not feed the troll.

that+ Biker scout armour = EPIC!

16.5

yeah that thing is terrible!

Why? We cant hit the broad side of a barn anyway!! I imagine after the rebels escape into the falcon completely unharmed YET AGAIN they throw it on the ground in disgust.... Then again we TOTALY Friggin wasted that golden dude who has even less mobility than we do.

Doopy's take a while to get in the states, but the kits are first rate. I also highly recommend the Hyperfirms. I have a doopy full kit I have not build yet that took about a month and a half to get here. I was very surprised at the quality and the strength of the resin, but I have seen pictures where someone drops one on a troop and the little parts get destroyed (like the sight, finger guards etc.) I have the ANH hyperfirm and the ROTJ hyperfirm and they are first rate. You can throw those things across a room with no worries.

Im next! Im next! This thread makes me very excited for my TM hero suit! Hopefully September sometime.

Now we need to convince ZeroRoom to do the same thing to an MGC...

left at least I hope so thats how I did it

I used hot glue on the lenses of my TE helmet, but I also put a metal speaker mesh behind the frown painted matt black with hot glue as well. Hot glue is easy to pop off if you need too, and wearing a balacava under your lid can be way to hot for a normal troop. Besides, the mesh makes the lid look more realistic if that makes any sense? I mean its suipposed to be hermetically sealed space armor, so having an open frown for general costuming was not my thing. Now with the RS suit I have I am going for prop replica even down to the internals, so no I won't be putting a mesh there and I secured the strip of green with the ear screws. I can see how a good duct tape to secure the mesh and eyes would work as well, Just depends if you are trying for prop replica or idealized. I think there is place for both.

I chipped in but its still showing 0 of 1500 Hopefully will update soon!

ahh that makes perfect sense with all the pictures I have seen then. I propose a change to the CRL

The video is interesting when you look at when he is holding it from the right the bolts look a bit off center, then when it switches to the left view (about :58) they look like they are at 3 and 6. So I wonder if he took it apart and cleaned it between shots and the reassembly is what makes the bolts go where it gets tightened up. Maybe the whole end rotates around until its secured? So theoretically unlike an L2A3 that has a fixed front muzzle, the MGC's can rotate? I dunno I found a picture on the model gun forums of how to strip an MCG and it had the bolts at 12 and 6.... http://mp40modelguns.forumotion.net/t2211-mgc-stirling-basic-strip-down-guide

So I just got my Hyperfirm ROTJ E-11, and was looking at it vs the CRL. This is the CRL that I have questions on: Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 7 U shaped channels on blaster (all holes on barrel shall be covered). The problem there is the pictures I find of ROTJ blasters do NOT have the holes covered see here from Parts of Star wars : Here is the other thing I have a question on: The muzzle will be unlike the normal ANH style. It shall be flat with two counter sunk Allen bolts (one located at the four o’clock position and one located at the ten ‘o’clock position). The pictures I could find of a real MGC front looks like this: That is more like 1 and 7 oclock? and this one that is a trooper blaster built on a real MGC by Solodallas that has them at 3 and 6. Is it just a matter of how you reassemble the MGC as to how the Bolts turn out? Now of course I ask this because the Hyperfirm has them at 3 and 6. I can cut and rotate, but I would want it at the right spot. Just wondering how the CRL came up with the 4 and 10 is all. Thanks!

I just got my Sci Fire Hyperfirm ROTJ E-11. Amazing! super light, super tough. Love these guns (I have ANH version as well).