rhapsodyred99

I just got my new TK boots today and they are great. I ordered a 13 as that is the size of hikers I use, but honestly I think I could have had a 12. These guys have a heck of a toe on em anyway great shoe!

I just got my size 13s in and from the top of the sole to the top of the elastic is 6 inches approx. from the top of the sole to the top of the boot is 6 7/8 inches approx. From the bottom of the sole (I.E. floor) to the top of the elastic is 6 7/8 approx and to the top of the boot is 8 approx. Hope that helps..

First off I know they used MGC canadian C-1 Sterling replicas for the film. But considering they are unbelievably rare and cost more than my deactivated L2A3 I have a question. In my bid to build an accurate ANH blaster I got several deactivated (I.E. cut up) L2A3s. I then stumbled on a great deal for a full deactivated L2A3 so the parts went unused. I was wondering if I used a lexan pipe with 1.5 OD for the receiver tube, if using the handle/trigger, stock, clip holder and end cap from my parts inventory would look too much like an L2A3 and not the MGC. I know I would have to do square instead of rounded ejector port and muzzle off sets as well as a whole new front end, and possibly do something about the wording on the sterling clip holder, but being able to use the existing sterling parts would help the build considerably. Obviously I know you 'can" do anything you want, but since I am trying to go for as close to accurate as I can I am not sure if using L2A3 parts would work at all. Since I have never had an MGC in my hands I can only compare pictures and it looks to me like the stock, handle and endcap are fairly close at least. Thanks, PS. Whats with the no love for Jedi? First post since April of this year???

how do you people get such nice circles???! Mine look like a chipmunk with turrets painted them.... ok not THAT bad but yours are much nicer!

Great! I want one of these badly. I figured he was a popular guy on these boards and probably has to filter through a ton of PMs a week, so did not want to flood his inbox

Anyone know if TM is still making these? I sent Him a pM a bit ago and dont want to bug him by sending another, but I have had no response...

I soaked some fiberglass cloth in 5 min epoxy and formed it around the inside. I used to fly RC planes and had a roll of the fiberglass cloth they use to reincforce the join between the two wings. I figured if it held them it would hold Hovis. It has worked really well on my old TE helmet (been holding since the mid 2000's). I plan on doing the same thing to my RS pvc once I get to that point.

post the info so we can check it out it looks great!

Thanks Paul. The shins are labeled L and R so I matched Ls and Rs up out of the box and saw the misalignment. Wonder why they mark them that way? I appreciate the help from more knowledgeable folks than I.

I noticed the same thing on my suit and was wondering how I was going to deal with it. I have left the limbs alone for now and am working on the torso, but this thread will be a big help when I get to that point! On the helmet: I had a hard time aligning mine at first too because I used the existing dimples from the "pivot screw" at the ear. Something must have shifted in the molding because if you do that there is a gap between the forehead and the cap. I moved the holes about a 1/4 to half an inch and now it seems to align correctly. But now like you I have a few more holes under there I may take a page from my RC plane days and soak a fiberglass cloth with epoxy and place it over the screw spots for support. I already planned on doing that to the Hovi recesses in the cheek tubes as they were pretty thin. Also as a side note as I have about a 38 waist, the AB and kidney have about a 3 inch gap on either side. Not at all unexpected and easily shimmed, but it reaffirms how skinny those actors were. I'd like to source a Kidney plate that was about 6 inches to the bend on either side, that would match the sculpted nature of the RS suit for trooping in, but for now I'll live with the shims when I am wearing it and leave em off for display. Anyway great work and thanks for this thread it's really helping me out!

These look amazing, I need to score a low brow one it looks great!

Where the heck is your time machine?? I wanna go back to the 1970's and steal a movie suit from Tunesia too! Great work, just wow.

I went with the PVC because it was recommended for trooping in, but I admit I do not know anything about these things other than what was said in some other build threads and by RS themselves. I took it to mean the ABS would be more prone to wear and tear than the PVC. I plan on getting another suit one day to make a Sandtrooper from, perhaps Ill go ABS on that one. I do not plan on doing cartwheels, but I may reinforce the bolt spots as Troopermaster says he has done it before with success.

Thanks! I really love this suit. Its so quirky and non uniform. So much Character! My previous suit was an FX bought From GT back in the day, and this is totally an equine of a different hue! I had thought that as long as I replaced my FX lid with a non FX lid all was well (which I did as soon as I could score a TE derrived one in the mid 2000's), but after lurking here I know that the FX will never cut it for me again. FX armor...truly the gateway drug to full on "Plastic Crack" addiction! "Plastic Crack" gotta get my Tk fix!

Hello all! I finally took the plunge and got an RS Prop Masters Full PVC untrimmed kit. As this is my first 'Real" build (FX does not count!!!) I have been paying close attention to all the threads here building RS suits. (thanks guys!) But I find a question has arose that I was wondering if you I could get some advice on. I know the metal brackets bolt into the torso on the return edges (or if you want the front of the ab plate) but I was wondering if as the RS uses the more screen accurate armor thickness, if it would be advisable to add some extra pvc on the return edges to bolt through to avoid stress fractures or rips. I have plenty of extra pvc from the trim off. I know Troopermaster armor has had the thinner material for some time, can anyone comment on the chance of ripping etc at the bolts? I know I could just glue some extra and be done with it, but I hate to go through the extra step if it would not help at all, or make it worse. As in instead of popping the bolt at the return edge, which would be a somewhat uncomplicated repair, it would actually cause it to rip down into the armor. I always think of the Murphey's law that a $500 dollar picture tube will protect a 10 cent fuse by blowing first! (for those that remember TV's with picture tubes ) Thanks!

hmmm The buttons are not showing for me, maybe its IE. EDIT: Yep it was IE. Switched to chrome and there they were. Thanks!

Anyone know how to get access to the Sith Lord forums? I can't seem to find any way to get there from their page: http://www.501stsithlords.com/ Or am I missing something? I am also planning to upgrade my DV to 501st standards and thought that would be a place similar to here, with great information and help. But all I get is the title screen. Thanks,

you dont have that counter as a file you can post do you? I may want to do that to my Hyperfirm, and printing yours will be easier than my trying to get one right since I have no skills there at all.

Thanks to this thread I just ordered a top and a bottom for a total of 29.99 with free shipping. Can't beat that! They are probably thinking WTH is with all the compression orders?? lol

I LOVE these guys! I just ordered a PVC suit from them and they are super nice and easy to deal with. Rob was very patient with my questions and even brought up some I had forgotten to ask. He is even going to toss in some extra plastic for shims in the event I need them. Super easy to deal with. you can very much tell its a "by the fans FOR the fans" type company. Ill be ordering from them again when I am ready to make my Sandtrooper. I am following this thread so closely. Your build is a great way for me to live vicariously through you until i can get my grubby mits on mine I like the armor history lessons too. How freakin awesome would it have been to have a real friggen stormtrooper in your attic!?

or leave it off and give in to the desire to make a sand trooper... No more obsessing over your aror getting scuffed or not being all shiney!

i used hot glue on my hero bucket.

TK boots is expecting a shipment in early july, but most of those are for waiting list people. You can get on teh waiting list by emailing them from a link on the page. Here is the email they sent me: Thank you for writing Frank, I'm so terribly sorry but currently we are sold out of boots and our next production which is due to be completed the first week of July is sold out. However, not all fans may be ready to purchase, so we'll be happy to add you to our back order list and e-mail you the moment the boots are completed. Again, I'm so sorry we're running behind. and when I asked to be put on the list: Thank you so much Frank, I appreciate your patience tremendously. We're really pushing the shop to help us catch up on orders, so hopefully things will smooth out and we'll get them in sooner than expected:) So if you need them in august there may be a slim chance.

I almost took a welding torch to the chest to simulate a blasted tk one halloween, I had gotten so disgusted with it, but I could not bring myself to do it! I am sure someone out there would like to get a good starter armor set for cheapish, and it will help offset the expensive RS suit. My hands are going to be trembling working on that thing!

I ordered my PVC kit today. I can not wait to get this bad boy and finally retire my FX...