ZacMuleer

I've got a followup question about sizing: but instead of length, it's about girth. (Jokes aside, people.) I know that there should be some room around the arms and legs for the gaskets to fit in - and that the primary reason for the gaskets is to fill in the space for elbows/knees. But if there is a method (whether the cloth gaskets or better latex or whatever) to thin that material, would the suit be able to handle a thinner frame? Basically, has anyone tailored the fit of the arms and legs to tighten a bit closer to their body's build? Kind of like how we're supposed to do for Original Trilogy TKs - avoiding the "bell" look around the knees, for example. I'm no scarecrow, but my legs are leaner than the rest of me, so I was wondering if tightening these pieces would A) look ok, and cause any issues with movement. I like the armor to look as tight as possible - and I also know the tighter the armor, the more secure it is. Anyone have any success, recommendations, or thoughts on that?

I doubt we'll find out any "function" of the greeblie until we can see the film.

Definitely interested in a pair of gloves (Large). I wasn't on the boot list previously, but whenever you do the next run, I am interested in being on that list as well (size 12 US).

Sometimes, it's just better not to count.

Shorter forearms would solve a lot of the range of movement restrictions, too.

There's an interesting design in the RPF thread above where it is speculated that the gap is there by design. That the pressure outwards is placed on the blaster bolt attachments by the thigh attachment. It would require you to press IN, then UP in order to release the weapon. I don't think it's the cleanest look, and hope that it is just a separation. But it's a theory being tossed around that it may be intentional.

Interesting - I would have thought the farther away from the armor the gaskets were that it would happen less. So I'm curious as to why this happens. Does the gasket have no room to flare "in" (towards the knee) so it flares "out" and get chomped up by the armor? And if this is the case, would foam behind the gasket cause the same problem? All of this coming from someone who is in the Beta150 and hasn't worn it before, but will soon! So forgive my newbie questions. It's fun learning a new costume.... feels like back before I joined the Legion and was researching TKs for the first time!!

The mannequin setups in the TFA exhibit at SWCA showed the thigh connection could also "holster" the E11. While I'm super excited for a sidearm, I'm equally excited for a modular holster.

Congrats, brother!

Awesome work, Scott. Very impressed.

Unfortunately, it looks like you are right in your assumption. There's a more pronounced curve on the outside of your shin than the inside. (Of course, this also means switching your sniper plate....) The reason this was so much of a problem is because the backs of the shins actually close outward. (This was a problem with the molds of AM. It threw a lot of people off.) That part needs to be modified either with cover strips or whatever so that they close inward again (after the switch).

Gracias, amigos.

The Hyperfirm DLT-19. (I think of the T-21s as the BFG. But I didn't think Hyperfirm made those.)

Hey, all - Quick question for anyone who has their hyperfirm DLT lying next to them: (I'm at work and am lazy and want an answer sooner than when I get home. lol) Can anyone tell me the length, end-to-end of the gun? Looking for a case purchase. Thanks, troopers!

Easy to answer this. Absolutely, positively assemble it yourself. Yes, Centurion is hard. It's supposed to be hard. But that's what makes it satisfying. Also, I can almost guarantee with 100% certainty that putting on a suit that someone else assembles for you won't fit to Centurion standards. Even if you follow the CRL for Centurion to the letter, the award is given to those who have achieved "THE LOOK", which is entirely dependent on how well your armor fits you. All this being said, if you still choose to go the route of having someone build your armor for you, which many have done, it is entirely possible to achieve Centurion with minor alterations to the armor. But you may find that it's easier to assemble the armor from the start than to disassemble and reassemble. You have the skills of armor building from your mando, you have your friends here on FISD, and you've got a good garrison over in Florida who would love to help you out. You can do this.

I actually did the same thing as the OP - I attached the mic to the helmet and had it plug into the ICOMM under the neckseal in the back (I put the ICOMM in the OII backplate, then wired up the speaker in the chest. I trooped like that for a year and had relatively few problems with it, but there were a few times I wanted to be able to take the helmet off... So I got a new mic and trooped with the headset mic separate at one con.... and hated it. I couldn't get the mic situated properly over my mouth and it was a pain and a half when getting the helmet on and off - it was always knocking itself off by my fans when I'd pull the helmet off. I'm glad I was able to try both, and it's certainly a matter of personal preference and practice in getting it on. I'm going to replace the mic in the helmet and go back to the tether.

I think it looks great. you're not seeing any lip around the edge, so once that gets painted, it'll look like a thick piece of armor. Sven may be referring to the eye, where there's a small lip around the edge of the cut, it seems. But I think the teeth look great.

I'd recommend going a little farther on the teeth. You don't want to see any lip along the edges. I highlighted in red over some of the white I think you can get rid of. (It's harder to mark the other gaps, but use this as a guide and make the others look like this too.) Remember, the helmet is supposed to look like it curves in (towards the face), and not back out (towards the other teeth). If you are unsure, keep coming back to us! It's what we're here for!

*bangs head against desk* Brilliant and simple solution. Nice job - and thanks.

I however, definitely take a different set of gloves on troops (with the non-flexible handguards), and I use my Hasbro conversion out in public, instead of my all-resin. If a kid bumps me wrong and I drop that thing, I don't think the iComm can filter out the profanities that will ensue.

I used black webbing/E6000 and even had the glue touch the metal. I haven't seen a single shred of melting. After reading about the threat, I was a bit more careful in trying to keep the e6000 to just the webbing, but it was by no means perfect. If you are really concerned, make an extra snap plate and glue it to a piece of ABS scrap. See how it works for you.

The shoulder straps without ridges are an option for some sandtrooper builds, as are the hexagon pieces- those are in place of the sniper plate on the knee.

Try a fabric store, like Joann's Fabrics, or Hancock's. that'll be a winner for finding all of that. Though, I found they may not have enough snaps in stock at one time... For those, I found it was cheap to just order from Tandy Leather Factory (or their amazon affiliates).

Yah. I'm 5'9, and 200lbs and currently wear AM... Will be building a new set of NE soon. Guys like us need the larger armor to cover our broad chests, otherwise, it looks.... uncomfortable. NE can be cut to shorter folks, but is better suited to your frame.

Like Aloha, I focused on my old Zip Code growing up. (7)7586