ZacMuleer

Yep. I used plasti-dip spray and had no problems in my ATA. Make sure you sand first, otherwise, it will peel up.

I made one for my SE-14r for use on my rebel. I wanted a smuggler-style gunbelt, but didn't want to carry the common DL-44. It's basic, but it still looks Star-Warsy. Obviously, this isn't a TK holster - but I was proud to make a unique piece for an imperial pistol.

SE-14r. There's a resin version (really nice one, too) in the ongoing sales forum section.

Aye. Painting the inside of the helmet can be a nightmare if you have already cut out the eyes and teeth. But if you've yet to reach that step, mask off the front and paint away! Make sure to wash out and then sand (and then wash out again) the inside of the helmet so the primer/paint has something to stick to. Then, there shouldn't be a problem with then affixing your pads in the helmet. (I used velcro so I could adjust as needed.)

Awesome!

This looks amazing! I hope it becomes a reality! Gotta start saving my pennies for both the helmet and the innards!

You tease! :-) I'd be down if it pans out. Keep us updated!

Any other info on this product, Jesse? (Not bailing on your mic setup yet, Jim - just checking it out. LOL)

Brilliant idea with the short screw (sexual innuendos aside). Plus, I bet that bondo stuff that it attaches to help to solidify that area of the helmet... As far as padding goes, mine is pretty minimal. I've got two small pieces on either side of my head to keep it from shaking side to side, and two that go against my forehead, pushing my head back against the back of the helmet (no padding there... though I do have the microphone transmitter back there, but it's low enough that my skull isn't pressed against it). On the top is a very thin piece of foam (that came with my computer's video card, actually). I also made a nosebridge to help "guide" the helmet when I am changing perspectives. It also keeps my schnozz from knocking around in there. All of these things are velcro'd in so they can be adjusted. Thanks for the tip on the aerators!

I have the same thoughts about the mic tips. I've tried cutting them with a pair of clippers while they are in the helmet, but I fear for damaging the tips/helmet. I also thought of dremel-sawing them shorter, but I think that will 1) make them more dangerous and pointy, and 2) create too much heat and melt things that are touching the screw (i.e. the helmet). I think I'm just going to cover the tips with some foam/hotglue/tape to keep from scratching myself and deal with them. I'll be watching to see if you come up with anything! Recommendation on the helmet - I don't think you need that much padding. (Unless a small skull requires it!) Covering that much area will keep air from circulating up around your head and make you hotter. So it's a preference thing. Looking great!

I used E6000 to bond my nylon snap plates directly to the armor, and it works like a charm. Elastic is easier to tear off the armor, so make sure it's just the nylon webbing.

What some people do is glue a second piece of the sign material to the back of the snap plate with a hole cut in the center, the diameter of the snap. That way, the snap's thickness is matched by the thickness of the plastic surrounding it and it can sit flush against the armor. Or, what I did... is make snap plates out of nylon webbing instead of plastic. Stays on solid (but is removable and replaceable if necessary), and the webbing allows for some give to keep the snap flat.

Thanks so much!! Couldn't have done it without y'all's help!

Update - new straps holding down the chest and a slight heat bend solved the problem. New pics! I found an action figure of me today! Surely it's a good sign.

Yeah, that's definitely a problem I've been looking to fix. My thought is that some pressure holding down the chestplate may help, so I'll see how that works out. (Currently, the only straps holding the chest on is the white elastic on the shoulders. I think having some elastic pulling the chest down towards the ab plate may work.) I'll get that fixed up and reshoot asap. Thanks, Mason!

It was SUCH a blast to be a part of this troop. The pictures are only a small taste. I'm (pleasantly) amazed at how many kids show up in Star Wars costumes.

Just to note, that shiny, shiny snap on the shoulder, just above the bell has been painted black after seeing these pictures. Just haven't retaken them. (Would I need to get fully suited up, or can I just snap a shot of the strap?)

Howdy, y'all! Newly minted TK-7586 is a glutton for more punishment. Respectfully requesting Expert Infantry Status. Daniel Nickeson TK-7586 Garrison Tyranus FISD ID: ZacMuleer Height - 5'9" Weight - 195 lbs. Armor - AM ABS Helmet - ATA ABS (Dave M decals by Trooperbay) Boots - TK Boots Belt - TKittell Drop boxes - inner boxes by Kevin Holster - TK Bondservant Gloves - Black chemical gloves Handplates - Karin Neck Seal - LadySewForUs Blaster(s) - Pics shown with Hasbro + Doopydoo conversion; Doopydoos full resin; SE-14r TD - clips and tube from Jesse Without further ado, the pictures. Going to just go down the CRL. 3 Screws, "handpainted" decals, 4 bumps... Hovi tips... (pretty sure the ones from ATA are the ones everyone likes. Not sure of the maker... Kevin, i think?) No rivets on the shoulder bridge: Rubber handplates and chemical gloves: (Cent, I think, but they look good.) Ab and kidney plates: (Again, Centurion, but it looks good.) 6 rivets on the left, no gap. "Solo" snap on the right unpainted rivet in the crotch tab Double snap on the butt (functional) Canvass belt, 3 buttons, covered drop boxes, belt cut at 45 degree angle. Thermal Detonator 1" clips and tube from Jesse, painted grey, no silver. (See above pictures (back and side pics). Apparently, I never took one of JUST the TD. Can add if more detail necessary.) Thigh battery packs riveted on and sniper plate glued (no rivets) Holster worn on the left, attached with two chicago screws E11 Blaster (Doopydoos full resin) THANKS, TROOPERS! FREEZE, REBEL SCUM! *pew pew pew*

TK 7586 requesting 501st access. http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=13820 Cheers! Dan

Dang right!! And honestly, I only have some minor tweaks and need to get the photos for EIB. Obviously, Centurion is a few tweaks beyond that, but something I still think I can reach this year. I would like to thank y'all for your help - Brian, especially - you were the man on the ground here and I couldn't have looked this good without your help. Darth Aloha, Martin, Hedji, Pandatrooper are just a few of the other names that come to mind among the build threads I followed to help me get here. Thanks for helping this brother in arms out, troopers! Cheers!

I'm in! TK 7586 reporting for duty!

Are the wires required for Centurion? it's listed in the requirements, but I've seen discussions of screen examples without wires. I'm just not a fan of the wires in general, so if I can avoid them on my blaster, all the better... Thanks!

OK, so not a lot of writing along the build thread lines, but I did want to thank everyone for their help and support along the way. Couldn't have done it without y'all. Submitted my application to the 501st this afternoon, so... fingers crossed. Cheers! As always, constructive comments, suggestions, or pats on the back are more than welcome. A few tweaks here and there and I'll be aiming for EIB/Centurion.

I've seen matte clearcoats, Travis, so don't worry, I would never do that to a blaster. Steve, I'm definitely not worried about scuffs on the blaster - I'm thinking that clearcoats may protect the armor (after I weather and detail the blasters) especially after such a light touch between the two caused it to mark the armor like a pencil.

A few shots of the painted guns, since everyone likes pictures. Doopydoos all-resin. (The cocking handle broke (nothing I can't fix), so I am redoing that part - but otherwise it's all good.) Hasbro mod and doopydoo conversion kit. And my little bonus - the SE-14r.