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About mablax12

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  1. Prove it for once. I can claim that I purchased one of the screen used blasters from any of the auctions over the years and compared all of the t tracks, and this is not true, but without the photos or some other proof, they are just claims, and aggressive ones at that, not in the spirit of this website. You have repeatedly refused to backup the claims you make, which I DO NOT DENY MAY BE TRUE BEYOND ANY DOUBT, but you need to back it up to make such bold claims. It's just not right. It's like believing Trump is swiftly furthering plans for a solar panel covered see-through wall that will only be aesthetically pleasing from the US side of the border without seeing the plans. There are elements that inherently bring up questions about these claims and it is only fair to the sellers whose products you claim are inferior to back it up with evidence, not just more rants claiming the same thing over and over, that yours are better because they're better. That is called circular reasoning. Again, I have NO DOUBT YOU TELL THE TRUTH, but it must be verified.
  2. Found some really useful info here to help me upgrade my strapping system, and was thinking I might as well offer to help anyone (whether a poster in the thread or just someone reading and in need) if any of the issues still persist, to the degree I can. <br><br> I live in NYC about 4 blocks from the Garment District, and as such have access to a selection of elastics, for one, that should eliminate any further searching. ESPECIALLY IF SOMEONE IS LOOKING FOR ONE 1" WEAVE VS ANOTHER 1" WEAVE TYPE OF THING, something that I honestly only caught recently reading the detail at the beginning of this thread. Please just let me know if I can return the favor of all the amazing info provided. <br><br> Also, if there are any other obscure item someone thinks can be found in NYC, happy to help too. Wasn't going to start a thread as I'm not trying to sell $3 elastic to make anything and this is geared toward obsessive people like me who appreciate the obscure and nuanced details.
  3. Even if there's no subforum there should certainly be a topic opened to discuss. Clearly this thread itself is part of a Rogue One subforum, so why not discuss the changes even if they aren't directly applied to "standards?" They're still Stormtroopers!
  4. First of all, thanks Joseph for setting this up! Lot of really great info here. If anyone can fill in the following for 100% (as far as we know) screen accuracy, it would be much appreciated. Also please feel free to add things! If it's not on or related to something on the list though, please add to the bottom and/or differentiate what you have added somehow (bold, color, italic, caps etc. Thanks in advance guys! 1. Bracket system (chest➡️ab/back➡️kidney➡️butt (6 for each connection)). from the originator of this thread - $45 (including the elastic for those) 2. Rivet set (left side of clamshell (3), cod (1), also from this person - $3 3. Snaps (shoulders (2), ab➡️Belt (2) (or 1?), butt (2), right side (believe it's 1 as seen on Han, if I'm wrong, please correct!) Are these all the same size????? 4. Hooks (6) - $5 (in NYC, prob cheaper elsewhere) 5. Elastic (most people have a minimum of a yard which should be enough of each size for one suit build, again, correct if wrong) White Under plastic shoulder straps = WIDTH? (Or if not elastic please let me know) Calf (with hooks) = WIDTH? Black Shoulder➡️Shoulder strap (2 pieces, with snaps) = WIDTH? Shoulder ➡️ Bicep = WIDTH? (Glued on both bottom of shoulder and top of bicep right?) Bicep➡️Forearm = 2" (inches)? I've seen that somewhere Kidney➡️Ab (3 left and 1 right) = WIDTH? Cod (1)= WIDTH? Calf (6) = WIDTH? Thighs (2) = 3" (inches) width, I'm told Then there are the ammo pack rivets/ caps that come with the aforementioned rivet set, detonator, belt, etc which I didn't want to get too into, but I'm sure other people would appreciate any other advice. Thanks again all!!!
  5. Hey guys, So I know this is not part of our normal discussions, and please feel free to move this to a more appropriate section if this is not. I need some help/opinions on a possible discrepancy I've found with a piece on the Obi Wan ANH Lightsaber! The piece in question is the Pommel or Handwheel made by Armitage Shanks. The blocks on the sides slope down toward the front a back, and if you notice, the front slope is much closer to a 90* angle while the back slope is much shallower. There are other versions of "original" handwheels that have the opposite, with the shallower slope toward the ANM2 booster. There is a picture below that shows various pictures of this discrepancy, and was hoping someone might have more info. Without linking or mentioning specific people, several of the "incorrect" versions as I see it have been sold for hundreds upon hundreds of dollars in the past year alone, though all the "original parts" builds I have seen have the correct version, so no bubble bursting thank god. Anyway, thank you guys in advance for the help, and please see below for the pics and why I am posting this here. Great story... In the interest of full disclosure, I would post this on the RPF but I was banned before even posting a message (yes, I was in the middle of drafting it), which was intended to get clarification/in all honesty call out a very prominent member of these forums for giving self-contradicting and shady (to say the least) answers to people wondering how his information is "unquestionably better than everyone else's," and how his reproductions were "unquestionably more accurate than everyone else's." I'm sure you all know who this person is. The message itself was very straightforward and addressed the issues of lack of proof and and why this person refused to say why he would not provide proof (i.e. even if the person had signed a non-disclosure he could have legally said he signed a non-disclosure as the reason for this. It seems this person is not nearly as active anymore as people have understood these issues, but is nonetheless connected to the people who run the RPF, so I got the short end of the stick. Sucks, but that's how they run things. As such, I might ask/beg someone who has interest in the matter might post this to the RPF website on my behalf, though you need not credit me or anything, and maybe PM me with any info received, or a link to the thread as I could still view it but not post.
  6. Not sure what ever happened with this, but for someone obsessed with getting things perfectly accurate to the original, this is an embarrassing response... the number of times I've seen a post stating, "if you want it to be correct..." or "for people who will only settle for screen accurate" or simply "this is right and you aren't"... simply embarassing...
  7. Think someone mentioned earlier about not being sure of the reason they used this coating on the Sterlings. It may be of interest to note that WWII Zippos were finished in the same way with the black wrinkle, and the reason for it was that they were using 2nd grade steel instead of brass as they had before (as brass and 1st grade steel were needed for the war effort), and like Aaron noted above, these lighters with the cheaper material started to rust and corrode. The finish was then added as a protective measure for harsh conditions, which the Sterlings most certainly would have seen in some places. Figured it was worth noting even though this is an older thread.
  8. For filming they used real, blank firing weapons (other than the Tunisia/Bapty blasters). Thus, they would have weighed in at about 7lbs., with the scope, Hengstler, t-tracks and cylinders added. Original weapon weight about 6lbs, maybe a touch more if memory serves. Only the new deac specs require the whole receiver filled with bar stock which adds that weight to make it 30+. Only reason I mention this is that they were not 30lbs+ in the publicity photos. Still, they are most definitely heavier than one would assume given their small size. The folding stock and solid, large bolt add probably 100% to the rest.
  9. See my response in the thread linked below. Just wayyy too much to write again. You can go kit, deac Sterling, or parts kit. I went parts kit and heavily modified things, but the write up I did here should give you a good idea of everything but a deac Sterling. Deacs can be fairly expensive here, $600+. Feel free to reach out with any other questions. Also, if you want a real parts kit, APEX gun parts is the site to check out. Most cost efficient. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31360-sterling-demilled-parts-kits/
  10. Seconding Derrek's response here. American product, made in Indiana if I am not mistaken (even though name is Minneapolis Honeywell...). Plus, Derrek has proprietary insight on certain things like this.
  11. Greg, I have actually done what you are talking about (for my first build as well, and wanted it perfect/the best in much the same way it seems like you do. Sounds like we are cut from a similar cloth, and I know how frustrating it can be to think something is just right and then realize it's not, I probably attached my mag well and rear sight 5-7 times each to get the alignment perfect), with little to no skill beforehand, though I will say I have good hand/eye coordination and can get pretty creative. If you purchase a parts kit, be prepared to strip the pieces you need. Stripping them involves using a MAPP gas or Oxy/Acetylene torch to melt the brazing that held the original parts together. I did it with MAPP gas and it takes a bit longer than the latter, but does not run the same risk of burning holes through the steel, which can happen with Oxy/Acetylene. If you want to do this, and are located within the US, APEX Gun Parts has the best deal on a parts kit for about $150. Many others go up to $300+. My reason for doing this was that I wanted the real pieces on there much like it seems you do (for purposes of weight, weathering, dings, tiny details, etc., did not want to buy a full deac Sterling (though I prob spent as much on other crap through the process, silly me), and just thought it would be cool. It is, and it is fun to do. Having done this, I was able to use the real grip, bracket and trigger group, the mag well, real/functional folding stock (prob the best part of using a parts kit, though you can buy just a stock for about $45 too), the front sight, sight guard, rear sight, flash guards, bolt and real spring with compression cups and cocking lever, bayonet lug, end cap, and end cap clip. Was also able to use all the real screws and little bits like that which I think adds a really nice touch to it. You WILL NOT (most likely) be able to use the end cap lock that holds it on the actual receiver, as this is a very thin ring that must be heated evenly all around, and is very very difficult to get off. The other piece you will not be able to use most likely is the front nozzle and dovetail block to hold the front sight, but I could be wrong. Perhaps if you take the pieces to an auto body shop or welding shop they may be able to do something on these pieces also. The one issue with the real spring and using a lug for the end cap to lock onto is that the lugs on kits out there are too thick for the spring to provide pressure on the end cap keeping it in place. I ended up molding my own lug in like a 5-step process that involved molding the real one, molding the inner diameter, making a mold around the inner diameter plug, casting a thin cylinder that would allow the spring through, attaching that to the lock, and molding the full piece. If you decide to go down this road, I would be happy to provide you with any resin bits that are necessary to complete the build with a parts kit. I also have a front nozzle with the block that holds the front sight properly instead of curving a sight around the tube. These two pieces and the barrel (which I made from plastic tube and cast discs to look like a real one) are the only resin/plastic pieces on my blaster. I will actually get a pic up soon as I have not painted yet and that is my last step, so you will be able to see exactly what one might look like. Aaron makes a good point as well that you must consider. Aluminum and steel are dissimilar metals and will not bind together via welding, brazing, or soldering. You will need to use some damn strong epoxy to do this. As such, I would strongly recommend getting a steel tube from DDay which I believe he will be offering on the new kits (more below). Having said this, DDay's kit is indeed awesome and his new one looks to be the best kit ever created. I've done one and had much interaction with him and will say he is one of the absolute best people to deal with on these forums, especially for purchasing things. He will take care of you, answer any questions promptly, and work out any issues that may arise during your wait/after you receive the kit. i.e. I had a problem with a scope about a month after receiving my kit and he sent me a replacement from Germany to the US for just shipping, no return needed and no other charge. The only caveat about buying one of his kits is that it could, possibly, take a while since he has so much demand right now and is finishing his new kit. Literally, that is THE ONLY maybe about it (unless you just want a real Sterling, obviously his kit is resin). Also, Derrek (DDay) may be making a longer tube on his new kits with a lock that fits on the outside. This will not only be more realistic, but provide a larger bonding surface and improve a number of other aspects. As you might tell from what I had to do to get everything here to work, this may be the biggest improvement on an E11 kit ever done. If he pulls it off, hot damn! This being said, I would contact him about getting a tube REGARDLESS OF WHICH DIRECTION YOU GO. If you use parts, buy a tube and the lock, if you get a kit, it's all there from him. Given I've been in the exact same situation and done both, I'm happy to answer any other questions you might have. Feel free to reach out here or in a PM. Most of all, good luck whichever direction you go! -Matt
  12. None of these have 5 digits... there's a red one on the right making 6 digits total. And 2 yellow ones on the other "white" one next to the 4 white numbers, also making for 6.
  13. Vern- Never said I didn't like em. In fact, if you read what I wrote, I do in fact like what they've done by staying true to the originals, while reasonably updating them given a 30 year time difference. The white does look a bit cheap, but cool and does blend in as you say. No, I have not played battlefront......... Gaz- Holster or not, it seems like the switch of the mag may have initially been to enable holstering. Regardless, it's possible......? Others- just talking about how they stayed true and updated, instead of reinventing, which is awesome. It is in the spirit of the original films.
  14. First of all, someone please move this to an appropriate subsection (or new subsection must one start? ANH this is not) A brief comment on what has occurred to date: As we caught glimpses of during the first released trailer for Ep. VII, Disney (maybe just JJ Abrams, herein after "they" will refer to both Mr. Abrams and Disney) may have done a wonderful job of updating the tech for the new film in a way that would please old Georgie boy. That is to say that they have taken the tech from the original trilogy, and updated it instead of creating an entirely new, synthetic world as was done for the prequel trilogy in the late 90's - early 2000's. As many of us know, when GL was filming ANH, he wanted to create a world that was truly lived in, and one in which the characters on the side and in the background had lives and backgrounds and stories about them. This is the entire reason the "Expanded Universe" was made possible. I personally think we would be hard pressed to find many people who disagree that some grave errors were made during the production of the prequels, which created a more sterile, or as previously stated "synthetic," environment. Yes, CGI of that caliber was the zeitgeist of that period; it was the first time that the stage (for a filmed production) could be created on computers that actually looked believable (to a certain extent). Yes, there is some logic in that to connect the prequels to the original trilogy, there had to be some "great disrupting event" that established the Rebel vs. Empire scenario. Yes, sci-fi design of the 70's was much different than the sleek, nearly minimalist sci-fi that has evolved over the years. But if you take a good look at comparing the two trilogies, this change was perhaps the biggest failure of Episodes I, II, and III [other than maybe the casting director's decision to cast H***** (not here to talk s***) as Anakin, and the decision to create Jar Jar Binks]. The New E-11: The images recently published of the new Stormtrooper has also given us a look at the new standard issue Imperial weapon. Upon first glance, it may look completely different than the E-11's fans have been building and buying for decades, but it really is not. They have "updated," shall we say, the original E-11 in a believable way. After all, the film does take place three decades after ROTJ, and we are ourselves four decades down the road. And there should be some changes, but what they have not done is reinvented the wheel. The most noticeable change, perhaps, is that many parts are white. The black/white combination is perfectly in line with a Stormtrooper theme, and the white parts help bring the weapon into the modern age of sci-fi in my opinion. If you look at these parts that have become white, they are parts of the grip, clip, receiver, end cap, scope rail, muzzle, and folding stock (wonder if this is functional?!). The fact remains however, these were all parts present on the original E-11's. The folding stock on its own is perhaps the most unique characteristic of the Sterling SMG. Keeping the new weapon based on the "old" weapon is one of the greatest things they could have done. Now granted, if Stormtroopers did not wear white armor, I might lean toward saying the white parts give this a bit of a cheap, fake look, but let's hold off on that for a moment. The new T-Tracks do kind of suck. That's just a straightforward point. They look like the crappy Hasbro tracks as opposed to an actually functional part of the weapon. Instead of "cooling rails," they look more like just a grip for the forward hand. The scopes they have chosen certainly do some justice. They look to actually be functional, with the adjustment knob on top (the old ones were not much, the tank telescopes used provided little to no magnification, and were instead used as calibrating devices for the periscopes in which they were mounted), and seem a bit more streamlined to follow the theme of "updating" vs. reinventing. On the other hand (literally not figuratively), they have moved the clip to the right-hand side of the weapon, making it possible to holster the weapon on the right-hand side! Functionally, this is perhaps the most realistic change they could have made. Sorry to all the lefties out there, but most people are right handed. In the original trilogy the holsters could not realistically be used, because drawing a weapon from the opposite side of your body is practically impossible (though would explain why Stormtroopers always get shot before they can do anything... actually this makes no sense because, as stated, the holsters aren't used...). This simple change, I believe, just goes to show the detail and level of thought that went into creating something "realistic" or "believable" to a certain extent. (On a side note, the new "batting/football-style" gloves kind of suck. The black chemical glove with white handplate was enough of a contrast and fit in with the entire Stormtrooper motif; there was simply no need to do this and I think it looks a bit off when viewed close up, though I doubt anyone will notice on screen.) Anyway, please feel free to chime in. I've said enough...
  15. Find out where you can get Montana Gold spray paints! They are special low-pressure cans that give incredible control. Will never use Krylon or Rustoleum again, though they are cheaper than the Montana.
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