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mablax12

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About mablax12

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    matt

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  1. Prove it for once. I can claim that I purchased one of the screen used blasters from any of the auctions over the years and compared all of the t tracks, and this is not true, but without the photos or some other proof, they are just claims, and aggressive ones at that, not in the spirit of this website. You have repeatedly refused to backup the claims you make, which I DO NOT DENY MAY BE TRUE BEYOND ANY DOUBT, but you need to back it up to make such bold claims. It's just not right. It's like believing Trump is swiftly furthering plans for a solar panel covered see-through wall that will only be aesthetically pleasing from the US side of the border without seeing the plans. There are elements that inherently bring up questions about these claims and it is only fair to the sellers whose products you claim are inferior to back it up with evidence, not just more rants claiming the same thing over and over, that yours are better because they're better. That is called circular reasoning. Again, I have NO DOUBT YOU TELL THE TRUTH, but it must be verified.
  2. Found some really useful info here to help me upgrade my strapping system, and was thinking I might as well offer to help anyone (whether a poster in the thread or just someone reading and in need) if any of the issues still persist, to the degree I can. <br><br> I live in NYC about 4 blocks from the Garment District, and as such have access to a selection of elastics, for one, that should eliminate any further searching. ESPECIALLY IF SOMEONE IS LOOKING FOR ONE 1" WEAVE VS ANOTHER 1" WEAVE TYPE OF THING, something that I honestly only caught recently reading the detail at the beginning of this thread. Please just let me know if I can return the favor of all the amazing info provided. <br><br> Also, if there are any other obscure item someone thinks can be found in NYC, happy to help too. Wasn't going to start a thread as I'm not trying to sell $3 elastic to make anything and this is geared toward obsessive people like me who appreciate the obscure and nuanced details.
  3. Even if there's no subforum there should certainly be a topic opened to discuss. Clearly this thread itself is part of a Rogue One subforum, so why not discuss the changes even if they aren't directly applied to "standards?" They're still Stormtroopers!
  4. First of all, thanks Joseph for setting this up! Lot of really great info here. If anyone can fill in the following for 100% (as far as we know) screen accuracy, it would be much appreciated. Also please feel free to add things! If it's not on or related to something on the list though, please add to the bottom and/or differentiate what you have added somehow (bold, color, italic, caps etc. Thanks in advance guys! 1. Bracket system (chest➡️ab/back➡️kidney➡️butt (6 for each connection)). from the originator of this thread - $45 (including the elastic for those) 2. Rivet set (left side of clamshell (3), cod (1), also from this person - $3 3. Snaps (shoulders (2), ab➡️Belt (2) (or 1?), butt (2), right side (believe it's 1 as seen on Han, if I'm wrong, please correct!) Are these all the same size????? 4. Hooks (6) - $5 (in NYC, prob cheaper elsewhere) 5. Elastic (most people have a minimum of a yard which should be enough of each size for one suit build, again, correct if wrong) White Under plastic shoulder straps = WIDTH? (Or if not elastic please let me know) Calf (with hooks) = WIDTH? Black Shoulder➡️Shoulder strap (2 pieces, with snaps) = WIDTH? Shoulder ➡️ Bicep = WIDTH? (Glued on both bottom of shoulder and top of bicep right?) Bicep➡️Forearm = 2" (inches)? I've seen that somewhere Kidney➡️Ab (3 left and 1 right) = WIDTH? Cod (1)= WIDTH? Calf (6) = WIDTH? Thighs (2) = 3" (inches) width, I'm told Then there are the ammo pack rivets/ caps that come with the aforementioned rivet set, detonator, belt, etc which I didn't want to get too into, but I'm sure other people would appreciate any other advice. Thanks again all!!!
  5. Hey guys, So I know this is not part of our normal discussions, and please feel free to move this to a more appropriate section if this is not. I need some help/opinions on a possible discrepancy I've found with a piece on the Obi Wan ANH Lightsaber! The piece in question is the Pommel or Handwheel made by Armitage Shanks. The blocks on the sides slope down toward the front a back, and if you notice, the front slope is much closer to a 90* angle while the back slope is much shallower. There are other versions of "original" handwheels that have the opposite, with the shallower slope toward the ANM2 booster. There is a picture below that shows various pictures of this discrepancy, and was hoping someone might have more info. Without linking or mentioning specific people, several of the "incorrect" versions as I see it have been sold for hundreds upon hundreds of dollars in the past year alone, though all the "original parts" builds I have seen have the correct version, so no bubble bursting thank god. Anyway, thank you guys in advance for the help, and please see below for the pics and why I am posting this here. Great story... In the interest of full disclosure, I would post this on the RPF but I was banned before even posting a message (yes, I was in the middle of drafting it), which was intended to get clarification/in all honesty call out a very prominent member of these forums for giving self-contradicting and shady (to say the least) answers to people wondering how his information is "unquestionably better than everyone else's," and how his reproductions were "unquestionably more accurate than everyone else's." I'm sure you all know who this person is. The message itself was very straightforward and addressed the issues of lack of proof and and why this person refused to say why he would not provide proof (i.e. even if the person had signed a non-disclosure he could have legally said he signed a non-disclosure as the reason for this. It seems this person is not nearly as active anymore as people have understood these issues, but is nonetheless connected to the people who run the RPF, so I got the short end of the stick. Sucks, but that's how they run things. As such, I might ask/beg someone who has interest in the matter might post this to the RPF website on my behalf, though you need not credit me or anything, and maybe PM me with any info received, or a link to the thread as I could still view it but not post.
  6. Not sure what ever happened with this, but for someone obsessed with getting things perfectly accurate to the original, this is an embarrassing response... the number of times I've seen a post stating, "if you want it to be correct..." or "for people who will only settle for screen accurate" or simply "this is right and you aren't"... simply embarassing...
  7. Think someone mentioned earlier about not being sure of the reason they used this coating on the Sterlings. It may be of interest to note that WWII Zippos were finished in the same way with the black wrinkle, and the reason for it was that they were using 2nd grade steel instead of brass as they had before (as brass and 1st grade steel were needed for the war effort), and like Aaron noted above, these lighters with the cheaper material started to rust and corrode. The finish was then added as a protective measure for harsh conditions, which the Sterlings most certainly would have seen in some places. Figured it was worth noting even though this is an older thread.
  8. For filming they used real, blank firing weapons (other than the Tunisia/Bapty blasters). Thus, they would have weighed in at about 7lbs., with the scope, Hengstler, t-tracks and cylinders added. Original weapon weight about 6lbs, maybe a touch more if memory serves. Only the new deac specs require the whole receiver filled with bar stock which adds that weight to make it 30+. Only reason I mention this is that they were not 30lbs+ in the publicity photos. Still, they are most definitely heavier than one would assume given their small size. The folding stock and solid, large bolt add probably 100% to the rest.
  9. See my response in the thread linked below. Just wayyy too much to write again. You can go kit, deac Sterling, or parts kit. I went parts kit and heavily modified things, but the write up I did here should give you a good idea of everything but a deac Sterling. Deacs can be fairly expensive here, $600+. Feel free to reach out with any other questions. Also, if you want a real parts kit, APEX gun parts is the site to check out. Most cost efficient. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31360-sterling-demilled-parts-kits/
  10. Seconding Derrek's response here. American product, made in Indiana if I am not mistaken (even though name is Minneapolis Honeywell...). Plus, Derrek has proprietary insight on certain things like this.
  11. Greg, I have actually done what you are talking about (for my first build as well, and wanted it perfect/the best in much the same way it seems like you do. Sounds like we are cut from a similar cloth, and I know how frustrating it can be to think something is just right and then realize it's not, I probably attached my mag well and rear sight 5-7 times each to get the alignment perfect), with little to no skill beforehand, though I will say I have good hand/eye coordination and can get pretty creative. If you purchase a parts kit, be prepared to strip the pieces you need. Stripping them involves using a MAPP gas or Oxy/Acetylene torch to melt the brazing that held the original parts together. I did it with MAPP gas and it takes a bit longer than the latter, but does not run the same risk of burning holes through the steel, which can happen with Oxy/Acetylene. If you want to do this, and are located within the US, APEX Gun Parts has the best deal on a parts kit for about $150. Many others go up to $300+. My reason for doing this was that I wanted the real pieces on there much like it seems you do (for purposes of weight, weathering, dings, tiny details, etc., did not want to buy a full deac Sterling (though I prob spent as much on other crap through the process, silly me), and just thought it would be cool. It is, and it is fun to do. Having done this, I was able to use the real grip, bracket and trigger group, the mag well, real/functional folding stock (prob the best part of using a parts kit, though you can buy just a stock for about $45 too), the front sight, sight guard, rear sight, flash guards, bolt and real spring with compression cups and cocking lever, bayonet lug, end cap, and end cap clip. Was also able to use all the real screws and little bits like that which I think adds a really nice touch to it. You WILL NOT (most likely) be able to use the end cap lock that holds it on the actual receiver, as this is a very thin ring that must be heated evenly all around, and is very very difficult to get off. The other piece you will not be able to use most likely is the front nozzle and dovetail block to hold the front sight, but I could be wrong. Perhaps if you take the pieces to an auto body shop or welding shop they may be able to do something on these pieces also. The one issue with the real spring and using a lug for the end cap to lock onto is that the lugs on kits out there are too thick for the spring to provide pressure on the end cap keeping it in place. I ended up molding my own lug in like a 5-step process that involved molding the real one, molding the inner diameter, making a mold around the inner diameter plug, casting a thin cylinder that would allow the spring through, attaching that to the lock, and molding the full piece. If you decide to go down this road, I would be happy to provide you with any resin bits that are necessary to complete the build with a parts kit. I also have a front nozzle with the block that holds the front sight properly instead of curving a sight around the tube. These two pieces and the barrel (which I made from plastic tube and cast discs to look like a real one) are the only resin/plastic pieces on my blaster. I will actually get a pic up soon as I have not painted yet and that is my last step, so you will be able to see exactly what one might look like. Aaron makes a good point as well that you must consider. Aluminum and steel are dissimilar metals and will not bind together via welding, brazing, or soldering. You will need to use some damn strong epoxy to do this. As such, I would strongly recommend getting a steel tube from DDay which I believe he will be offering on the new kits (more below). Having said this, DDay's kit is indeed awesome and his new one looks to be the best kit ever created. I've done one and had much interaction with him and will say he is one of the absolute best people to deal with on these forums, especially for purchasing things. He will take care of you, answer any questions promptly, and work out any issues that may arise during your wait/after you receive the kit. i.e. I had a problem with a scope about a month after receiving my kit and he sent me a replacement from Germany to the US for just shipping, no return needed and no other charge. The only caveat about buying one of his kits is that it could, possibly, take a while since he has so much demand right now and is finishing his new kit. Literally, that is THE ONLY maybe about it (unless you just want a real Sterling, obviously his kit is resin). Also, Derrek (DDay) may be making a longer tube on his new kits with a lock that fits on the outside. This will not only be more realistic, but provide a larger bonding surface and improve a number of other aspects. As you might tell from what I had to do to get everything here to work, this may be the biggest improvement on an E11 kit ever done. If he pulls it off, hot damn! This being said, I would contact him about getting a tube REGARDLESS OF WHICH DIRECTION YOU GO. If you use parts, buy a tube and the lock, if you get a kit, it's all there from him. Given I've been in the exact same situation and done both, I'm happy to answer any other questions you might have. Feel free to reach out here or in a PM. Most of all, good luck whichever direction you go! -Matt
  12. None of these have 5 digits... there's a red one on the right making 6 digits total. And 2 yellow ones on the other "white" one next to the 4 white numbers, also making for 6.
  13. Find out where you can get Montana Gold spray paints! They are special low-pressure cans that give incredible control. Will never use Krylon or Rustoleum again, though they are cheaper than the Montana.
  14. First of all, amazing work on the cutting of these pieces! Really a lofty goal you've set for yourself and quite a standard for others to follow. I think if I (or many others here) made the fire control group and bracket on my own I would have to have them laser cut. Just one note on these pieces. I see you've masterfully cut the little notch on the top front of the side panel for the fire control group. When putting the control group into the bracket, this actually catches a little bit on the inside of the front piece of the bracket to keep the control group from falling down. I think this makes sense, but if not, I'll try to get pics to elaborate. Basically, if I were doing what you are (which again, I could not) I would cut the sides of the bracket in a single piece with the front connecting them, sort of like a butterfly, and then bend both of the sides. Then you can add a little piece as wide as the inner width of the front but just shorter than the height, so the notches catch when you push the control group forward. Again, let me know if I can explain this better. *EDIT* Example of what I'm trying to explain, the blue/darker lines are where the folds are. It also has to be just below the top as that is where you will slightly bend/flange the pieces to fit onto the receiver.
  15. Matthew, Noticed that nobody seems to have posted about the electronics part of this, which I assume is why you posted in the electronics for helmets and blasters section. To reiterate the people above, both Keith's and Sskunky's mic tips are incredible, and a much better option than buying tips with pre-installed speakers. I ran into the same problem while trying to keep everything internal to my helmet, so no wires are running around my body or have to be attached/detached when taking off the helmet, and not having a mic showing. If you check out www.digikey.com, you can search for speakers of varying diameters, and install these on the better mic tips mentioned above. This will also be cheaper in the long run as each speaker will be about $5, maybe less. Just make sure you buy speakers that are small enough to fit the INSIDE diameter of the mic tips you buy, and that they have wire leads and not solder terminals. With wire leads you can simply splice the wire into a normal 3.5mm input jack, and plug that into your amp/mic setup/etc. Feel free to PM me for more info on how I did this, but it sounds and looks pretty freakin sweet. I used rubber tubing like on a beer funnel but thinner to keep the wires in place within the helmet as well, so it looks very cool on the inside, almost like you might imagine a tech-filled "real life" stormtrooper helmet might look. Matt
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