dashrazor

looking good just a few small fixes for an easy pass 1: Ab plate: must match the correct color pattern (3 blue + 6 gray). 2: drop boxes: straps need to be white 3: holster: two fasteners to attach to belt fixes that will improve the look of the helmet* black trim around ear bumps, frown should be a bit thinner, raise the brow trim in the front a hair here is a pic of a finished KW helmet ( on the right) note the differences in the frown and brow trim)

if you use a high gloss enamel paint to start with you shouldn't need to apply a cleacoat after i used a clear acrylic craft sealer to coat the red areas on my armor but for a plain white TK it isn't really necessary. just be sure to use a good primer before applying the krylon fusion

i have used this stuff and it doesn't react well with other paint types, also you need to apply really thin coats or it will crackle badly Lacquer is also a very hard and brittle finish. Anything under it mustbe completely dry and hardened and you should wait several weeks before re-coating... i wouldnt recommend it for armor

looks fantastic!!! great job!!!

nope,, i dont use resin for my blasters just clean abs and styrene parts and pvc, i always clean with automotive paint prep as well...

the only thing i noticed about the krylon fusion plastic paint is, that despite what it says on the can it does require a good sanding and primer to bond well to plastic, otherwise it comes off really easy just like any other spray paint..... i ended up stripping it all off and re painting the blaster with rustolium

i got mine at walmart for 20$ in the sports section a plain black spandex bodysuit, or wetsuit is all you really need, if you want to make one i would try lycra, but i cannot sew lol

lookin good man the photos are a tad small, but it looks like its almost EIB ready!!!

sounds fair also gray drop boxes added to the TKC EI as well but i did really want to build this rig

well i have been torn on this since i started my build... even though the screens show a definite split i believe still that it is a skinning limitation and it "should" be joined for EI as per the ROTJ requirements. but anyone taking the screens at face value could argue that reasoning... so i think making it a should have would be better but on another note..i feel the action figure version should not be acceptable unless other action figure EU variants are allowed as well JK such as Crowd Control Stormtrooper's old marvel comic stormtrooper variant concept trooper Stormtrooper Disguise and Basso death trooper (not an action figure but close enough) it would be cool to have more variants especially the crowd control trooper!!!

the cod/ ab plates also appear to be separate i remember this discussion LINK and yes that is a ROTJ style E-11... it was the best extended stock photo i had at the time

i can get rid of one of my size 11 boots if you needed it asap i will not be able to troop until April anyway, so ill have plenty of time to get replacement boots (there is almost always a waiting list at TKboots.com) i would also pitch in along with pat if time was not an issue

your best bet would be to stick with sellers on this list ----------- if a seller is not on this list, there is most likely a good reason i would go with ATA it is a fine kit

"* Back plate should be separate pieces as in ANH/ESB requirements " that's odd the TKC and ICN are based off the exact same computer model so i am not sure why they differ in that part of the CRL?? misprint perhaps? i would say follow the eib ROTJ guidelines for the armor as it says, splitting them would contradict the ROTJ/ICN CRL's. * Ab plate is inverted compared to ANH/EIB * Ab plate will be be 3 dark blue and the rest black, unlike the ANH/ESB coloration. The three dark blue will be the three buttons closest to the belt. * Molded lip around the cod, chest, kidney, and butt plate (similar to car door trim) * Single back/butt piece, not split like ANH/ESB * Belt must be 2.5" wide, not 3" as on ANH/ESB * Shoulder straps should not have a flat end at the ends of them, they should be ribbed 100% * A gap between the ab plate and kidney plate is allowed as seen on screen * No shoulder bell straps across the biceps * Shoulder bells are rounded at the corners as for the blaster it is not necessary by any means, but just have a unfolded stock matches the game references

i used the same as on the frown ( just because it is what i had on hand) if you flip the ab plate and trim it up.. it will look smashing. just follow the ROTJ crl for the armor you have the time... and a E11 with extended stock would be a good final touch as well...

the color looks almost spot on. the in-game screenshots are deceiving due to lighting effects and shadows. i would paint the drop boxes gray, just on the front side though the unmapped textures show a better representation of the actual colors (also shows the gray drop boxes)

excellent work! keep working at and you could go above the current EIB standards by the time you are eligible for 501st membership

looks bads$$ i think if you do the scraping like tom suggested it will be perfect.. i just painted all the red areas then lightly sanded the battle damaged areas to scuff up the red i also airbrushed some transparent black on areas to make it appeared scorched (but it is hard to tell in the photo)

looks flabulous, flantastic idea!

if you used the krylon plastic paint it should remove easily with a little soap and water and steel wool or green scrub pad. that stuff doesn't really bond to plastic all that well as it is advertised, for weathering i find acrylic craft paints are the best (for drybrushing and blackwash). and just coat it with a clear acrylic craft sealer when done (clear matte finish looks nice). after sealing apply a coat of automotive wax and it will be just as permanent than any spray paint... the benefit of acrylics is, if you make a mistake it can be washed off with soap and water and a paper towel, and it has no fumes so you can apply it inside without ventilation an airbrush also adds a nice touch.... remember only water based paints can be thinned with water, spray paints/model paints can not be thinned without a proper thinner or reducer check out this site it has some good techniques http://www.starwarsmodels.com/techweath.html

looks like a bit too heavy on the weathering. but otherwise it looks great! a good blackwashing looks more natural

the textures do show a lot of details that do not show up in the 3d renders. if i can find more. i will post em up it is tedious work to do through the thousands of texture files to find the right ones...

bring on the pics brother!!

i managed to extract the game textures for the bazooka and HWT pack details.. it was not easy to find them lol bazooka \ HWT pack