Locitus

Well, the chest to back strapping is typical of FX suits and not very good for keeping your suit together compared to a back and kidney connection. It will also help to keep the gap between the two pieces smaller.

You should lower your biceps until they are touching the top of the forearms when you have your arms straight down. And wear the ab belt slightly higher. You'll also benefit from strapping the back and kidney together instead of the back and chest. It looks like you have followed old FX strapping instructions rather than the new and better ways we promote here.

Easy pass.

I'm going to go out on a limb and say that the ear stripe needs to be fixed. Nowhere in ANH do you see the stripe in the front. And while you are at it you might want to trim some more off the ab and kidney sides as there clearly is some outwards flare that are part of the mould rather than the ab, as well as replace the drop box webbing with white elastic.

Cheerio 'ol chap!

It looks like you're missing the hex-bolts that hold the muzzle.

Just check with your local garrison what you can say or use so that they know about it and have a say in what you can bring. I have no idea what these booklets are, as these are often localized, but they will likely know.

Most garrisons, or even the legion in itself aren't too fond of non members promoting them out of the risk of getting the wrong information spread. So it's not a good idea. If your garrison will be present then you might be able to attend and help out as a supporter for them. But if not, it's best to not try to represent something you aren't a member of yet. Having a bunch of garrison approved flyers on your table might be alright. Just check with your garrison first. As for the pictures, feel free to post them either in the Field Training or the NCO section. We don't mind.

http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/10455-eib.png

"Stunt" neckseal is permitted for EIB, but not centurion when doing the hero costume. Your kit is above and beyond the requirements of EIB Fredrik. But I still recommend you follow up on the advice given to you by the others. And if you can, try moving the clips on the detonator further out to the side so they sit side-to-side with the end caps. Approved!

http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/14285-eib.png

http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/3255-centurion.png

Wiselite makes semi auto sterling's with a longer barrel that are legal in the us. It's what THG is basing their rubber blaster on. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/19191-eib.png

Cannot get enough of your beautiful blaster Mark!

Beautiful submission. Easy pass!

You need to put the full URL inside ---------

Well, at least I know it will go to a good home.

Dang it, if I knew he was selling it I would have tried to get it myself

You could easily get centurion with that blaster (assuming that your armour is equally accurate).

The button plate on stock rubies is like it was in ANH and ESB. What you are looking at is a modded rubies where it has been flipped to how it was in ROTJ.

Their blaster unless they built a kit for you (unlikely) is the former Pugman blaster, which was cast from an original screen used ESB blaster. Therefore it is really only usable on an ESB version TK unless you want to sidestep those "rules" (because blasters are optional for basic approval no one can stop you from using it, but you can't use it for EIB unless your armour is also made into ESB). ----------

Typo.

Have a look at old FX and AM helmets. They were 3 part designs as well. While the NE helmet is a lot more accurate, the join in the back should still be similar I imagine. Just don't repeat old mistakes. It should be as easy as lining the back with clue along the area designated to be overlapped by the cap and then clamp it down while the glue cures, to complete the two parts into a cap&back like those used on other helmets.

In my experience with abs paste it helped to "massage" the paste after the most of acetone evaporated but while the paste was still fairly soft in order to get the tiny gas bubbles out, Basically, I just poked at it back and forth and compressed it with my fingers.