pandatrooper

Here's how to trim it and do the return. Make sure to use reference photos for the shape. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/12972-howto-make-a-return-edge-on-armor-using-a-heat-sealing-iron/ ----------- I would pull up the torso a bit too based on your height.

Understood. When viewing on the mobile version of the site, I don't really pay attention to the forum name. You can't see it very well as the letters get cut off where it says "The Repli..."

Ah right. Gotcha.

Also, don't use CA glue. Use E6000. If you screw up you can heat it up with a heat gun and separate it.

I thought the belt measurement from the CRL for Centurion was 2.75". Does that mean the CRL is incorrect? "Size must be 2.75†(70 mm) to 3.25â€(83 mm) wide and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt."

I have found that Model master tends to be slightly thinner than the regular square bottles that sell for $1.50. Just get the cheap one. I still airbrush mine, fewer issues.

Its "allowed" at non canon events but frowned upon by most TK or TD purists and other members. If you want to wear a pauldron as a TK, you could go heavy weapons trooper (HWT) or go Sandy. IMO: do it right, go sandy. Don't get me started on other characters wearing pauldrons (biker scouts etc.)

I drilled it diagonally from underneath the inside of the trigger hole to the side of the receiver. The wire gauge was 22 I think.

Hobby shop. Look for Evergreen or Plastruct styrene sheets. Score, snap, drill a hole, install snap. Done.

You need to remove the TK one and replace it with a TD one if you want to be a 501st approved TD.

Just stick with the elastic and install snaps at the front connecting to the chest for putting on the costume and taking it off. If the 2" elastic straps are installed properly you won't damage anything. I've done it the same way for many builds and never had a failure.

Check hobby shops and model railroad shops. Just ask for sheet styrene. No one will know what HIPS means.

Not sure but its a fairly standard process: - under suit / neck seal - thighs - boots - shins - torso (chest, back, an, kidney, butt. Open it on the right side, undo right shoulder strap to get head through, do up shoulder, close up right side) - belt around waist / holster / thermal detonator - arms (shoulders might be attached already) - lower arms - gloves with hand plates - helmet - test other accessories like voice amp, mic, blaster etc - done!

Personally, I would loosen the tape a bit. You're making the top too tight and the bottom is loose, use 2 pieces of tape on each side when sizing - one on the top one one the bottom to keep it even.

Goo Gone.

You could also do an external charge port as many sabers use that. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx You don't need to buy everything from TCSS but perhaps this provides inspiration

This is a cool project! SWmand4, not sure if you have already seem these but the Custom Saber shop sells pre made li-ion packs for sabers. I use the 1450 ones all the time. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li-ion-Packs-C85.aspx Not sure if you are still trying to do the lighting propagation down the barrel but you could easily use 1" or 7/8" blade tubing with diffusion film inside and a Luxeon Rebel red led in the back end to light it up. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Thin-Walled--C90.aspx I have built many sabers and with a barrel this short, the beam would be very bright.

According to Brian Muir, he sculpted the armor, Liz Moore did the helmet. Elstree plaster dept pulled molds and plaster for the bucks for him to sharpen. Elstree did form some stuff then the vac machine broke down. Then they hired AA to pull the parts. He did NOT "resculpt" the helmet himself. Take a look at the video where he throws some clay into a pseudo TK faceplate (which looks horrible), then the video cuts to him using an angle grinder to "sculpt" it (because we all know sculptors use angle grinders) then cut to "voila!" Finished TK faceplate, which looks nothing like his sculpt. Decide for yourselves, but the facts are out there. AA contributed a lot for the finishing of the TK and vac forming, no dispute there. He did not sculpt the helmet or armor, period. He was the fabricator to get things done for production.

Eib and Centurion currently does not require a specific strapping system. I personally went with snap plates as it makes it easier to disassemble the components if required for transport.

Glad it's helpful!

Leave a gap, use the proper sized cover strip. Shim the inside with a strip that covers the gap for strength.

Feel free to ask questions.

They make rare earth magnets in 3/4" and 1".I have seen square ones too. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32065&cat=1,42363,42348&ap=1

I use it more than others because I have a slim build and I'm 5 foot 8.5" so I need to resize parts to fit me. Most troopers don't need to heat much of anything.

I can't comment on the armor as I've not handled an RS Props in real life, but I hear the detail is very sharp because of the lineage of the original mold and the thinner plastic, which captures great detail. Weathering is a pretty subjective thing. Some people like to do it with one color, some like to do layers, some use brushes, some use sponges, some like it heavy, some like it light. It really depends on what YOU like. Personally I find your current weathering a bit too light in some areas (overall it's not heavy enough IMO) and the chest mark is too "obvious". No offence meant to you or RS Props. That's just my personal feedback from staring at Sandtroopers for years now. I know Rolf does a great job using one color, but I prefer the 2 color oily / dirt approach. I made a big thread about the oily / dirt look on MEPD. You can read up on it here. I did a lot of research on the original weathering and the original costume guys are quoted as to how they did it, so I replicated it with experiments using real dirt and oil. I replicated the look with much safer and more durable acrylic paints. http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=7274 Here's my how to on weathering. Might be a bit heavy looking for some folks, but I feel this is a more original way of doing it. http://forum.mepd.net/?showtopic=7290 Keep in mind too: it depends if you want your TD to look like it did on "film" (as we remember it on the big screen or DVD / Blu ray) or what it looked like in real life. The originals were weathered with a mixture of oil and dirt. On "film" it looks grey because it's washed out by lighting, sunlight, filters, etc. My armor weathered in the oily dirty style Here's a comparison of the original Stop that ship TD (screen grab on the left) and my ATA TD weathered, in trying to replicate the original look (the other 2 images on the right). You can see how much I had to weather the armor to get that look.