pandatrooper

Another thing you could try to do is move the lower band from the right thigh down a bit, and re-rivet it. And then for the left shin, try and raise the plate up and re-rivet it? Not sure if that will buy you enough space, but worth a try?

I read about this on some other forums too. In Canada, airsoft is technically a restricted item (unless you go to Walmart and buy a clear one with an orange tip) but basically, if it's black and looks a lot like a real gun, you're going to have issues. I play paintball too, and many paintball "markers" are looking more and more like real guns. I know a shop owner who has had issues in the past with importing and stocking realistic looking replicas that are fine to buy and own in the USA, but not in Canada. In Canada, we've had a fair share of issues with replicas being used in crimes. Eg: gangsters using airsoft guns in robberies, assaults, etc.. There have even been "drive by shootings" or instances of kids bringing them to school, and many times, the SWAT team or whatever is called out to deal with the situation. Might be good to check with organizers of the events and check to see if it's OK. I know if I was trooping and visiting some kids in a hospital or something, I'm not sure if you need a blaster anyways?

Depending on your size, and if you haven't assembled your armor, you could trim the pieces slightly more before assembly, making them a hair smaller. Gotta be careful not to slim too much as it changes the overall look. I've seen some troopers use black insulating foam (approx 3/8" thick x 1" wide give or take) that's used for your doorways, screen doors, etc (check Home depot) and place it just inside the lip of the their armor for a little more comfort and to prevent rubbing. You can contour it to the shape of the openings. Most will shim with foam inside anyways to prevent the armor from moving too much. I've not even started my armor yet, but I'm a slim guy too, so I know I'll probably have some "skinny butt / leg" syndrome going on. It's an easy fix for that area though. With other costumes I have made in the past with similar visible areas, I'll simply wear some sweat shorts under the black under suit to "fill out" the legs, etc.. Obviously, you have to be careful as you might get hot underneath, and it may still be an issue in areas like knees / elbows. I skateboard too, and I have a set of knee and elbow pads that are a thicker neoprene / foam padded combo (where you can add or remove foam padding or the plastic plate). If necessary, I'll slip these on under the suit to make things more comfy as well. ----- You could also use some simple neoprene knee / elbow supports too. Your local drugstore / sporting goods store will have these. Hope that helps!

Just ordered one, can't wait to set it up! Thanks for the great tips guys!

You can look it up, but in the "tuner car world" there's automotive paints that you can layer up, and then polish to get the same chrome effect, for a lower cost than vaccuum metalize process. I'm no expert, just something I've read! Here's a link to a manufacturer of chrome paint. http://www.alsacorp.com/products/mirrachrome/mirra_show1.htm

Wow, great tip! Looks so clean! My buddy has one, I'll mention that to him.

Personally I like no bump. Troopertims looks great, good comparison photo too!

This was exactly what I was looking for, thank you! I'm sure I'm not the only person who noticed that the Testors grey is #1138

Thanks Darth finger. I'll have to use some "make do" boots for now, until I can find some proper ones in my size. It's funny, at a lot of shoe stores I always find my size, but not in trooper boots!

I've noticed this too, on a couple helmets where the pull might be a little thinner, sometimes it even turns out blotchy / patchy looking depending on the lighting.

On my model making / costume work, I usually use packing or masking tape in a donut shape (sticky side out), rub this down on to the "goo" and pull the tape off quickly, this will remove most of it. For the remainder, I use stuff called "Goo Gone", it's designed specifically for removing sticky residue left by price tags, etc. I just take a soft terry cloth, place it over the bottle and give it a shake to dispense some fluid into the cloth. Rub this on the goo to remove it. Sometimes you might need to apply more just to soften the residue. After it's softened, just wipe it off. If you're going to apply something to same spot, I'd suggest cleaning the area with alcohol before doing more work to that specific location. Hope that helps!

Just read this and your photo blog. Fantastic work, my friend! Totally inspirational for my build.

Thanks Dmian, I know the knee cap and right side bit were separate and required riveting, but I wasn't sure of the shins, if there was an actual left and right. I should have been more thorough with my description. Blue cow, the diagram is great, thank you. Thanks for clarifying guys!

I'm new too, but I'll try to be helpful with the knowledge I have. Anyone, feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. FX armor is generally slightly larger, specifically the helmet. As it was fan sculpted, it might not be 100% accurate, but from an overall perspective it suits the "that's definitely a stormtrooper" needs if not more. I've read that RT might even be slightly bigger than FX. I believe FX lite is sold without the helmet (body armor only) where as the Full FX has everything including the helmet. <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?show...#092;&st=80" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?show...#092;&st=80</a> In terms of helmets, they usually come as one size fits all, and it's up to you to install foam padding or an inner helmet harness (from a hardhat or military like helmet) so that it fits your head. There's a variety of fan kits available, but you can also head to most electronics stores and buy small fans made to cool down PC computers or electronic parts, where you can just easily wire them to a battery or switch. I've done some research and the prices have a huge range for pre-made kits, so surf around first. Green flat eye lenses are usually used for stunt helmets, dark grey bubble lenses for hero based helmets. Depends on what you like. A lot of the armor makers make complete kits that come with everything (decals, etc..) and others require you to get them separately, or some choose to upgrade. For example, some come with black cheek decals and others blue (to match the film) so that's up to you. On top of an armor kits, assuming it doesn't come with everything, you'll need industrial velcro for closing openings, webbing to suspend / hold the armor together, rivets, snaps, screws for the helmet, some foam for shims, and a few other odds and ends. It's likely you'll need a belt to mount the belt parts / thermal detonator on. A holster if your kit doesn't come with one, a black under suit, black gloves (rubber or Nomex), neck seal if you want one, and approved boots. I think there's only 2-3 companies making boots that are "approved" for use, like Caboots, etc..

Anyone know if there's even smaller sizes available? I'm an 8.5 and can't find any anywhere. I've checked their site and contacting them, but haven't heard back.

Cool, thanks for replying!

They look really good. Sorry for the noob question - did I read somewhere that for 501st, hand guards have to be soft / flexible, you can't use hard ones anymore? Or is that for special uses only?

Wow, fantastic job. Definitely one of the finest if not the finest I have ever seen! The work is top notch.

Hi guys, sorry for the noob question. But I read somewhere that AP shins are the "same" on the left and right. Is that the case? Some pics I've seen are ANH style with the bumps on the right, and the wedge shaped piece on the left. Is that how they make it now? Thanks!

Your armor looks great! How do you like the VT armor? Can I ask what kind of boots those are? I'm having a hell of a time finding boots in my size.