pandatrooper

Heat up the E6000 with a hairdryer or heat gun on low, then run a flat chisel between the parts to pry them apart.

This seller has been discussed at length. Recast of AP and TE based parts.

A fiberglass recast of an FX helmet? Wow, this seller is grasping!

Nice work Lucas, thanks for sharing this build on Fisd!

On my AM build, I sized the armor down considerably. Some tips in there -

This helmet build thread shows you how I paint my helmets. -

Love this initiative from Lucasfilm for "Use the Force for Good" to support Stand Up To Cancer (SU2C). Great video too! I officially love Emma Stone. Don't tell my wife that. Bill Hader as the Tauntaun is the best!

That's normal. If you install a rivet on the sides of the helmet and on the bottom (both would be hidden by the ears) the helmet will not swivel at all.

I would add some more, or remove the ones you have and just apply them how them come spaced. They look a bit too sparse, but that's just my opinion.

Is there a reason why the tube stripes are spaced so far apart?

All the best to him on his special day, one of the most talented and creative artists in the SW universe! "The Force will be with you, always."

I just find CA glue thinner and less noticable than other glues since it dries clear. I find E6000 too thick. Plastic weld is designed for styrene and ABS not resin, so I'm not sure if it will hold. It might soften the plastic slightly but might not bond with the screen mesh. Just use Krazy glue.

Remove the return. Pull the whole assembly up a bit higher too. If you still feel a lack of mobility, consider the cutting the cod modification.

Stuktatrooper removed the picture album, so the images no longer work. Regardless, snap plates are one of the easiest things to make. It's simply a square of plastic (I make them 1.5" square) with a hole drilled in middle, with a male snap installed through it. Your webbing or elastic has the corresponding female snap for attaching your suspenders / harness. Most people use the Tandy line 24 sized snaps and use the flat bottom backing for the male snap. I've found that depending on the size of the plastic square, it can sometimes be hard to get the plate to sit flat to be glued on the inside of your armor. I use 1/8" x 1/8" rivets and a small washer to install the male snap, and simply flatten the inside of the rivet with a hammer / flat end of a bolt. This creates only a very small bump under the snap plate and it sits more flush allowing the adhesive to have more surface area to bond. This is the link to another way to create the snap plates (linking here as a few people asked for it, not to derail from Stuka's thread) --------------

Its black elastic holding the bell against the bicep.

Glue them shut, no velcro. As TKrestonva stated, trim the write return off then size them so your hand just fits through with no gloves on, assemble and glue shut. Once you wear the forearm, there will be room for the gloves afterwards.

Personally, I would have cut the cod and hidden some of the gap by extending with plastic and hiding it with the belt. This might have necessitated extending the kidney section too, but again it's covered by the belt. Then lower the chest as best you can. I feel extending the chest plate changes the look of the armor too much.

Armor is usually only made in a few sizes. Kids size, screen size and bigger / plus size. It all depends on your current measurements. If you are approx 5'8 - 6' tall, you would fit into most armor makes. Any bigger in height or weight and plus sized armor is better. Everything is trim / built to fit your personal body size like a tailor would. *BTW: in the future, please avoid using "How To:" in the title of your post as that denotes a tutorial. I have also moved your topic out of the Tutorial section.

yes. I just trim it. I find if its taller it can dig into your cheeks or nose when wearing it. The lens only needs to be 1/2" taller than the eye openings.

ATA helmets come with all of the above plus hardware. Foam is not included.

Make sure to tape the parts before clamping. This will prevent them from moving.

Looking really good. The thighs look a little roomy for you, do they need to be sized a little? Maybe pull them up by 3/4"? That butt plate is sticking out a bit, could maybe use some heat gun action to shape it slightly to be more form fitting? Otherwise it's looking very sharp.

You should glue all of the limbs if possible. The only velcro you need is for shins.

I use 400 grit. Wear a mask when sanding. You don't want to inhale plastic particles.

You have an AM kit. If youre skinny enough, trim the backs of the biceps first like in my AM build thread. Theres a ridge on the side of each side of the biceps. Leave 8mm or so and snap a straight line. Then size the inner bicep.