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Thank you! I hope to get it

Nope

Got it -- thanks!

Nice work trooper, good luck with approval, although I don't think you need it

Thank you for your request. Added to the process line.

Let's goooooo! You got this dude, lookin good!

Looking sharp! Best of luck, trooper! Sent from my SM-S926U using Tapatalk

Hello from Alaska! I'm submitting photos for a pre-approval review. Please note that I own two pairs of white boots, and I accidentally brought the wrong pair when packing for the photo session at my workplace. I've included a separate photo of the correct boots, along with a picture of myself with them for reference. Thank you for your time, and I appreciate your feedback! Keegan King. The Aurora Borealis Alaskan Garrison. Armor maker: RS Prop Masters. Helmet maker: RS Prop Masters. Cloth belt maker: RS Prop Masters. Neck seal maker: Darman's Props. Boot maker: Imperial Boots. Height: 5’9, 175cm. Weight: 175 lbs, 56.7 kilograms. TK Type: ESB Trooper that helped me with my build: David McGee

Inside cover strips don't have to be pretty, and are not required for any level of approval. However, I would not build a set of armor without them. They add an extra level of strength at the joins, and are especially important on the calves. The reason being is that those get opened up quite a bit when putting them on, creating stress on the front seams, and I always make the inside cover strips a bit wider for this reason. The reason for the difference in thickness is due to the vaccu-forming process. Dave starts with crazy thick ABS, but the pieces that get stretched the most will be a bit thinner. The thinner strips are good for he forearms, biceps and thighs and the thicker ones are what I would suggest for the calves.

At some point in your OT build you will be using rivets. It may just be for attaching the thigh ammo pack for Basic, the cod tab for EI or all those plus the ab/kidney ones for Centurion. It's honestly pretty easy to attach both kinds of these using basic tools you probably have on hand: A flat-head screwdriver (preferably large), a drill with the correct size bits and a hammer. Removing them will require a thin bladed flat head screwdriver, some heavy-duty pliers and perhaps a drill. Safety gloves and goggles are recommended. For this tutorial I will be using scrap ABS. Now, let's get to it! Split (bifurcated) Rivets Assuming you are (hopefully) aiming for Centurion, you will need 9 (with washers) 6 for the left ab/kidney connection 1 for the lower cod tab 2 for the thigh ammo pack (if not using cap rivets) Head diameter should be 5/16" (8mm). Shank should be 3/8" (9.25mm) long BEFORE YOU START: Make sure you have a very hard surface to hammer on, and I suggest laying down a piece of heavy cloth on top of it so you don't scratch your armor. 1. Carefully mark your hole placement(s). Using a 9/64" bit (about 4mm) drill out the hole 2. Insert rivet, dome side out. Hole will be snug 3. Turn over piece, insert washer onto rivet shank 4. Using the thin end of the screwdriver, insert it into the split and gently hammer it down 5. Continue moving the screwdriver farther up toward the thick part, hammering at each increment to open up the "legs" 6. Use the shaft of the screwdriver to get the widest opening possible. At this point you should be able to 7. use the hammer to flatten it out completely 1 2 3 4 = 5 6 7 = DONE! Single Cap Rivets Single cap (one domed end) rivets were used in the original films to attach the thigh ammo pack to the bottom of the right thigh. Although not a requirement at any level, many like to use them for screen accuracy You will need 2 sets (top and bottom), one for each side Head diameter should be 5/16" (8mm) Again, you will need a hard surface (like the edge of a workbench) to hammer on Reference photo for placement IMPORTANT! Make sure the back edges of the ammo pack tabs are equal distance from the corners of the rear of the ridges on each side! 1. Carefully mark your hole placements. Drill holes. 2. Insert bottom (facing inside). 3. Shank should be facing outward. 4. Place cap on shank. 5. Gently give a few good taps with a hammer until it is set. Cap will flatten out. 1 2 3 4 5 DONE! REMOVING RIVETS Spit type: 1. Using a thin bladed screwdriver, CAREFULLY pry up each side the "legs". POINT SCREWDRIVER AWAY FROM YOU WHEN DOING THIS!!! 2. Using a set of heavy duty pliers, pinch the legs together until they meet 3. Washer will now slide off and rivet can be easily removed 1 2 3 Cap Rivets These are a bit trickier than removing the split type, so take your time to avoid damaging your armor. Safety gloves and goggles are suggested. 1. Using a pair of pliers, grip the cap part (this avoids it spinning). 2. Using a drill bit at least as wide as the shaft of the rivet, CAREFULLY drill through the bottom (base) from the back 3. Once the drill has penetrated the entire rivet, it can be easily removed. 1 2 3 If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, post up here.