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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/27/2025 in all areas
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Costume = Stormtrooper, A New Hope (Stunt) Costume CRL Link = https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt Name = Zachary D. TKID = 98752 Forum Name = stormztrooper1 Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=37020 "Social media consent (photos): Yes" Garrison/Squad = Southern California Garrison, Orange County Squad Armor = MTK Helmet = MTK Optional Information Height = 5ft 10in, or 178cm Weight = 193lbs, or 88kg Neckseal = Trooperbay Holster = Trooperbay Hand Plates = justJoseph63 latex Gloves = Double 1 chemical gloves Canvas Belt = Imperial Issue Boots = Crow Props Blaster = Hellhounds Builder = @jedidudejay Armorer = @TheRascalKing Armor Photos Helmet Off (unadjusted) Front / Back Right Side Left Side Action Pose Detail Photos Helmet S-trim Detail Vocoder and Hovi Mic Tip Detail Lens Color (Backlit if necessary) Accessory Photos Neckseal Thermal Detonator Ammo Belt Gloves & Handguards Boots E-11 Blaster Optional Abdomen Detail Cod Details Handguard Flex Sniper Knee Attachment (glue) Thigh Ammo Pack Attachment (split rivets) Belt Box Back Detail (fully closed) Wrist Return Edge Detail (none present) Right Ab Snap Detail Shoulder Bridge Attachment (glue) Thank you for your consideration, @Deployment Officer Team!1 point
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Hello my friend!! Nice to meet you and from here! Thank you so much!! Looking forward to see you!1 point
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This has been a great post to follow. Awesome job putting this together from the vocoder to the lenses to the painting. I'm definitely saving this in case I need to paint anything1 point
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Welcome! We've been talking on messenger. I'll be sure to give you an FISD coin when I see you May 9th when I visit! Again welcome!1 point
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Welcome! Great there will be another shock trooper in the Legion! Great to also see someone from Norman! I lived there for four years as I worked on and earned my PhD. I may be visiting Norman in a few weeks, so I should reach out to the garrison to see if there are any troops.1 point
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Velcro works well for me, you just have to make sure the shins close fully, may need a little heat to get them sitting flush. There has also been some who use magnets Magnetic Shin Closures by Cricket (Print PDF) Magnetic Shin Closures (supplement) by Zugor Alternate Magnetic Shin Closures by OddViking3271 point
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Luckily, E6000 doesn't set hard like CA glue. It remains slightly elastic, so you should be able to slowly prize them off. Take your time and start by removing any of the excess glue you may have along the sides of the cover strips. Start at one end and see if you can get something under the cover and between the bicep halves, and work your way down the length. A sharp blade will assist in cutting the E6000 and your result should be fine. Many have needed to do this over the years, be it to resize or realign parts with covers strips.1 point
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Glue additional plastic then ABS slurry or bondo if you are going to paint. ABS slurry apply in very thin coats, lessons air bubbles, it's a lot of work to sand and polish though. Remember too that the back remains open so if you have a bigger gap it shouldn't really matter as the detonator will cover it. Someone extended their chest on the sides Here's an OTTK shim thread Using ABS slurry Resizing armor pieces, for OTTK but be similar1 point
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I attached the vocoder by inserting the rubber tubing I made. To install them, I first cut the edges so I could more easily thread them into the holes I had drilled. I started with the center tube and worked towards the edges. The wire on the inside certainly helped them keep their shape, and I was happy with the uniformness of each tube. Although the Level 1 CRL doesn't call for it, I made the tubes so they had a gap between them and the helmet. Once they were all installed, I leveled them so they all protruded the same distance from the helmet. I then glued them in place with J-B Weld and then cut the extra length. I'm happy with the final outcome and the look of the vocoder.1 point
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Placed and glued on the snaps on the underneath of the chest to receive the white elastic strap.1 point
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Thank you to all of you who have contributed to the forum. It really does help and means we can keep helping troopers.1 point
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I sprayed the helmet with the Upol Gloss Clear coat and let it dry for about 48 hours. I then used Meguiar's polish to buff the white areas with a sponge and then wiped off any remaining polish. While I was working on the helmet, I got after the gap gmrhodes13 pointed out on the pre-approval feedback forum. I ordered a replacement rectangular plate from 850 Armor Works. It only comes in black so I timed the work so I could paint the helmet and plate at the same time. I needed to take about an inch off the width. I started by cutting it in half and then trimming each half to the right size. I glued a strip along the back of one side and then glued the top pieces together. I then sanded and primed the plate. Once it was primed, I painted it with the Monaco White and then gave it the gloss coat as I painted the helmet. I'm hoping the size reduction will show less of a gap when the new plate is worn.1 point
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I know I am not the first one to do this type of thing, but several people in other boards have asked for some kind of tutorial for the new transport cases I just made. While I don't exactly have a full tutorial, I did write something up that at least will let you get an idea of some parts to try out, and hopefully inspire some others to theme their bins. I do this for all of my costumes, and I feel like it adds something to roll up to a troop with a bin that hints at the costume you are about to suit up in. I usually add lights, because many Star Wars crates have lights, and I try and make it a bit in-universe (like no standard lettering). Because my bin was a little smaller to fit it all (and because many times we also bring just the bucket), I made a separate helmet case. Because my ANH Stunt build was my first really clean costume with no weathering (and I LOVE weathering), I was able to get some weathering in these cases to get that out of my system. Below I will show some shots of the cases, and follow it with some build notes. Note: I do not build these on commission. They are a labor of love, and part of the costume build that I love to build over a month in the early morning hours in my cold garage, but do not want to do these for money. If Instagram is your thing, I post things like this under the username "Oddviking" The helmet case: I wanted to make something protective, and just large enough to fit around the helmet with some foam inside: These decals were used after the first set of photos, because I had just gotten a vinyl cutter and could finally add some more lettering: The Armor Bin: This is a little smaller than the usual 50 gallon one, a 45 gallon bin that had a good look as a base. Some turnarounds: The helmet case screen:1 point
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Since the Monaco White was a match, I returned to O'Reilly Auto Parts and was helped by Pat, who stayed beyond the end of his shift to mix my paint. Thank you, Pat! I left with two spray cans of the white and a can of gloss clear coat. I gave the helmet three light coats with the Monaco White. I painted the frown with Humbrol Pale Grey Gloss. I made the seven pieces for the vocoder. Using some electric fence wire, I cut and bent the seven individual pieces. They were a little loose inside the tubing so I wrapped just a bit of electrical tape around them then slid the rubber tubing over the wires. When fitting the curved pieces under the tube stripes, I realized I needed to remove some additional material on the inside of the helmet just to make their placement a little easier.1 point
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