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So, you found us! Thinking about becoming a "real" Stormtrooper? Well you are in the right place, I promise. Welcome to the TRUE home of shiny (and sometimes not so shiny) white armor! While some may dive right in, others like to check things out and see what this crazy hobby is all about and learn about what it takes to join the 501st as a shiny white spaceman/woman. One thing I can promise you is that any questions you may have (no matter how strange you may think they are) will be answered in a friendly and supportive manner. We don't judge. Every single one of us has been in your position, and our goal is to assist you in any way we can. SO, it's time to stop lurking, introduce yourself and let us know how we can help you join the ranks and become a member of the 501st and FISD!

It's a good idea to browse other approved EIB's just to check if you missed anything A contrasting background is a good idea too, makes photo editing a little easier, at least for your action photo

Same here!

While there are a number of ways to attach the lenses inside your bucket, I found the easiest and fastest is to use a product called SUGRU. It is a kneadable glue, sort of like play-doh (plasticine) that is super easy to work with, and will hold forever. It does keep somewhat of a pliable consistency after drying, can be removed if you ever need to and does not emit heat during the curing process like CA or Epoxy glue. It is available online (like here on Amazon) and in many craft shops, usually in packets of 3. It comes in a variety of colors, but I suggest using the black. HINT: This can be done if you have already built your helmet, but it is easier if the face plate has not been attached. This whole process will take you less than 10 minutes to attach both lenses. Here is a photo of one of the individual packets, and the contents rolled into a ball. In this instance I am using 1 packet per lens. You will need a craft (popsicle) stick, sharpened at one end: Here is the trimmed eye opening from the inside: The next step is to roll the SUGRU into a small "snake" shape about 7 inches in length. (No longer). After that, you simply press it into the outside edges of the eye opening. Note that I left an open spot at the top. I recommend this for ventilation purposes. (Helps keep your lenses from fogging up). Place the lens evenly over the opening. Using a craft (popsicle) stick, push the glue firmly into place around the outside, making contact with both lens and helmet surface. Don't worry if it seeps through to the front. Hint: This glue is strong stuff. You don't need a crazy amount of contact surface. It will not come off unless you take it off. Turn the faceplate over, and any glue that has seeped through (see red circle) can be easily removed with the sharpened end of the craft stick. Allow 24 hours for it to dry, and you are DONE!

Hi. I have a question about the arm positioning in the demo photos for image submission for EI. The following images show the arm at different angles. Is the one with the arms going forward acceptable for the side with arms up, or does it have to be like the one with the hand reaching towards the camera? Also, do we need to have our blaster in our holster for the photos? I have pictures of it, just didn’t have it in the holster when taking pictures. Thanks!

That's just Carl. He was new there and was last seen looking for the vending machines.

Its preferable not to wear the blaster. why this? usually the blaster tends to bend the canvas belt and make you look like going to the side.

I am still curious about the blaster as well. Do I have to be wearing it when taking the pictures of the body? Or can it be shown for just the required detail photos?

So you're saying my picture looks better... Thanks! Ha Ha!

Either way is ok. My preference is the 1st one because the AB-Kidney connection looks better.

Normally it's straight up from the side (second pic) but I don't think there would be an issue with the first image, DO's basically want to see the sides.

I Knew someone would spot that sir! This was a pic of the prototype. The released version does come with all rivets present.

IIRC Troopacoola makes ROTJ E-11, from a recently acquired MGC

Before I vote, I'd appreciate clarification. This statement: Seems to me to be at odds with this statement: I recently noted from the reference shared over here posted by Heritage Auctions: ...that not all blasters used on screen for FOTKs had a movable front handle, and many did not have lights. This (and many other) blasters were made by production for use on screen and did not have these features, so I am of the strong opinion that they should be optional and not required at any level. This isn't a Mr. No Stripes situation where a one-off escaped scrutiny - these were intentionally made and used without moving handles. So... can I submit a blaster with a fixed handle for L3 approval and CRL amendment using the clear reference above? Or if we're still going to claim only Hero blasters have validity in CRL consideration, what's the point of this proposal? CRLs should not be about having 'the bells and whistles that make [costumes] stand out", but rather accuracy to what was used on screen, tempered with consideration for what is practical for trooping, and achievable with the resources and materials currently available.

I got my first crack after 33 troops, not a bad run. I decided to try something different, having had to work with fibreglass building my death trooper costume, I picked up some new techniques. Here is the crack in the chest piece at the neck line. Materials used: UV resin paint brush tape UV light scissors Bondo fibreglass cloth sandpaper First, I taped the outside side of the crack to align it and hold everything in place. Next I brushed on a thin layer of UV resin and cured it. Took about 10 seconds Next, I cut a piece of the fibreglass cloth to cover the area . Then I painted on.another thin coat of resin, applied the cloth onto the wet resin and then dabbed another layer of resin onto the cloth to soak it in. Once this was done, I cured it again I then added a few more layers of resin curing them as I went. Finally, I sanded the repair smooth with 11pm grit sandpaper There was a slight edge to the repair, so I sanded it with 220 grit sand paper, then buffed with 1000 the 2000 grit sand paper and finished with Novus polish All repaired in less than 5 minutes

Here's one masterfully finished by Paul Prentice of Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build. And yes, when finished properly, I can say with some authority, having held a screen used one, that it is the most accurate currently available and absolutely worth a purchase if your goal is a Rogue One/New Generation suit. Jimmi's is excellent as well, but Nico's is truly impressive. More photos at: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100008239635269&sk=photos_by

Sugru works great for the frown mesh too. Thanks for the great walkthrough @justjoseph63