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Hi folks, TK/TS-4887 (RET) here. I used be fairly active here back in the day and was on the Command Staff many moons ago (Looking at my last DM was about 9 years ago lol). Not looking to come out of retirement, but I found an old E11 build with a real tanker scope on it, so I thought I better finish it up. Happy to see how FISD has grown since my day and it's great to see the Newsletter (which I started) still going strong. Great job everyone.

Prepare to pog boys, @CableGuy would be proud of my oxide and diamond white paint up haha. I was lucky to get a free sheet of PP as a sample and lemme say, I know why they used this for stunts. It pulls nice and comes off the mould nicer! And the trimming, dont get me started, it cuts like butter with a knife, no sanding required. Im working on the texture as there is a top secret recipe for it but didnt want to mess up my only 2 pulls I could do today. As you can see tho they came out crisp and noice. Its 1.5mm too! Those of you who want a PP kit message me on here or FB and I will put together a special secret run for you guys shortly. The correct colour will be in soon ish if you wanna wait but the black pp ones wil be cheaper. Getting a pack of 20 sheets tomorrow I think, gonna try whip up a few for comic con this weekend so time is against me but will see how we go! Also need to pull the ears in 1.5mm ABS tomorrow too. And yes I know the ears were on when it was painted originally lol.

Ok, so I've wanted to build a Stormtrooper forever just like the rest of you and it's finally time. This has been years in the making. I originally thought " hey, I can build a clay mold and vacuum form my own armor!" Boy was I wrong!. Anyhow, I'm 48 and finally in a position where I can afford the armor. So, I contacted Darkside Dave. He totally made me feel like I to could put this together. Now, the waiting game! My E11 just arrived in New York from Germany, coming to Tennessee so it looks like I'll be I'll be able to start that! Ukswraith's voice and speakers are in my hand and I cant stop playing with it, and my boots have been ordered from IB Boots. How many times can a person check on tracking you ask? Well,it's a lot I can tell you! Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

OK change my mind I hate pp, turns out I just got reeeeaaaaaallllyyyy lucky yesterday and 90% of my pulls today were fails. I managed to get 2 half decent helmets, albeit a little thin in areas. Might consider going to 2mm pp and trying that, hopefully that's not too sinful lol. Maybe an error on my part to try sell pps to the general public at a convention this weekend as I'm certain every casual storm trooper enjoyed will be like, why does it look like crap??? Haha we will see how it goes. At least the ears kinda came up OK???. Sent from my SM-G991B using Tapatalk

Hi Everyone! First time posting! First Armor!! First time tackling a project like this! I never really got into cosplay much before the pandemic, but with nothing to do and nowhere to go and not much to spend my money on, I started buying costumes, Star Trek at first, but lately I have been venturing into Star Wars and cobbled together a half assed Luke from ROTJ and another half assed Han Solo from New Hope. But when Denuo Novo had a sale on First Order Stormtrooper armor, resistance was futile! So I'll be documenting my build here in this thread, please let me know how I'm doing. All feedback and criticism are welcome! Borrowing some formatting from Justin's post: TLJ Armor Armor = Denuo Novo ($700*) Helmet = Habro TLJ plastic Boot Maker = ??? Gloves = Endor Finders ($65) Belt = Denuo Novo Belt Pouches = Denuo Novo Neck Seal = Denuo Novo Holster = R2Dan (€75*)

Well, apparently he was waiting on me to give the green light before sharing, which I thought I had done. However, we just made another change that’ll make assembly a lot easier, so give me a couple days and I’ll post a few things in the 3d repository. Also… anyone looking for a new SE-14R? We’re currently developing/ test printing OT and Rogue One/ New Generation versions that are looking phenomenal. Sorry for hijacking the thread. I’ll start a new one in the 3d forum when these are officially ready.

One word of warning through, Terry.. when BBB day comes, you will tear open that box like a kid at Christmas (like most of us did) and then realize "Oh crap, I have to put this thing together", lol. Not to worry, though. In addition to research, for a dynamite looking set of armor the main key is to ask questions. Lots of questions. Many builders just forge ahead when encountering a problem and most of the time it ends up badly. Better to hit us up for guidance rather than guess. Trust me.

Adam is absolutely spot-on with that advice. Using a Dremel is the easiest way to remove the excess, but do it a little at a time until you get where you need to be. Using the sandpaper will remove any burrs and give you a nice smooth edge.

Hello and welcome Terry! Boy oh boy did I refresh my package tracking page when I was waiting for mine! Amazing that you have taken the first steps! The excitement cannot be measured If you could extract electricity from it then I'd say the electricity for my Christmas lights would have been covered Do you plan on taking it all the way to Centurion? Hint hint nudge nudge In the meantime, here is a thread with very helpful info!

That sort of return edge is easily fixed with a dremel and sanding drum. Be careful to not go past the edge, but yeah, it'll just zip right off. Quick motions in a straight line will make the dremeling as flat/smooth as possible. Once you're done and happy with it, get out the 200 grit sandpaper and it'll smooth out to flat very quickly.

Howdy Matt! I can't wait to drool on some E-11 photos. And welcome back!

Welcome back Matt.

Boiling water should not affect the snaps, but what I would be concerned about is the corner as shown below in the second photo. When you bend ABS the stress has to go somewhere, and sharp angled corners (especially those with return edges) are where issues (cracks) begin. Before making any adjustments I would remove the remaining small return edge (yellow line), being sure the the corner is rounded out somewhat. I have a thread here which will give you a little more information on the subject, and looking forward to seeing the results! Example (screen used armor).

Not for basic approval

You do need a tab (for higher level approval, which should go through the return edge of the yoke to help your shoulder bell sit aligned with the yoke) which you may not be able to do now BUT I didn't do mine that way, I bent a support using some heat and glued underneath the return edge and ran the elastic underneath too Note the tab and also elastic through the side return edge.

I just checked Chris’s Thingiverse page and it doesn’t look like he’s posted this one yet. We did make a couple last minute changes, but everything should be set now. I have additional pics available on the Star Wars Blaster Build Group on FB. I’ll check with him and see what he’s doing with the files and then let you know.

Yes I am filling out lots of online stuff! Talk to everyone soon!

Oh boy, I've been looking for a source for an Andor E-10!

Terry, I do a lot of 3D printing and have found that a good CA glue works best. Actually, I know this post is from a different detachment forum, but our very own @11b30b4, did an excellent analysis on this subject back in 2020. Check out page 2 for his breakdown of different bonding techniques: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21220-11b30b4-shoretrooper-wip-mr-pauls-3d-print-files/page/2/ So, a couple items from personal experience: I would need to know what type filament you're using for this print. PLA has to be finished much differently than PETG, ABS, or even Carbon Fiber PLA. You can plastic weld the pieces with a soldering iron, but if you're working with PLA, you won't be able to sand down those weld marks cleanly. Next, I'd like to know what printer you're using. This doesn't seem like a factor in determining how to glue pieces, but it helps to know how big your print surface is, and in turn, the pieces are that you're gluing. With blasters, you really want to print some parts in one piece, i.e. the barrel, but this requires a very tall print surface. Since the barrel has cooling holes, there's not much surface to glue which causes a lot of weak seams that break at the slightest bump. If you can get away with printing this in one piece, or coming up with an alternative barrel, that helps. Just my two cents, but I did want to leave you with these two pictures. The first is the F-11D Barrel with Integrated T-tracks printed in CF PLA. This is a good example because the one-piece barrel along with the T-tracks created a cery solid piece that didn't require soldering or gluing. Next is a very raw print of the E-10 variant from Andor. Again, I printed the long barrel in one piece in order to avoid splicing anything together and it's pretty solid.

Was very suprised to see how well even the lines showed up! No doubt the thinner 1.5 will show imaculate details. I will! Just need to learn how to form it first as PP is very different to ABS and getting the texture right is very difficult.

We do a bit of teasing...