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Here's the issue (its the same when I have the undersuit on). Since this photo I removed some plastic from the front and that helped the torso sit a little more level. However I am still close to the top of the kidney, if I slightly move the back pops up. The plate for the TD is 8.5 inches. The kidney is 8 5/8 inches from top to top of belt I am 6'1" So if I add material to the top of the kidney plate that is not an issue, but the TD plate will have to be increased as well. Have not seen anyone with this issue so it makes me think that my kidney is modeled shorter than the other vendors.

Hello to all and Happy New Year! I have wanted to start trooping for a long time now and finally bit the bullet. I bought a full commission ANH Stunt from RS during their Black Friday event. I've been looking around here for awhile and you guys and gals seem to be so helpful and full of useful information. I'm really looking forward to receiving my armor and getting in to The Central California Garrison to start trooping. Sean

Another great AM build thread to follow is Tony's

Alright trooper, get some gaffer tape and start suiting up. AM is a great kit, you can do this! AJ has a great build thread I used Seans when I was building And here is my build

Thanks for the reply. The issue with how it was sitting was due to extra material added to the ab section was actually pushing up and forward. Here is the before picture. Those "wings" at the top were the culprit. I marked where the chest plate sits on the ab. In this pic you can see how it actually flares out at the top Now sitting level at the waist and the back just touches the kidney. But as soon as I move it pops out. The kidney plate is 8.5 inches from top of belt (the plastic skirt) to the top where the TD would hook on (I am going to do the notch mod). Other builder kits are from 11-13 ish inches, so this is my problem. Walt has responded back that he will increase the size.

Should be straight at the wrist

I'm quoting this bit because the importance of a nice brush cannot be overstated for any craft project. Truly a poor brush can make even the most simple job into a multi-day pain-fest. A $5 brush from the painting aisle in the hobby store is so very worth it and hardly more expensive than the trash Testors white handle model brushes. And that said, well done on the buttons.

I managed to not take a pic of my new Sterling folding stock from Joseph. I'm trying to decide if I'm brave enough to integrate this into the Questdesign. I did manage to get a bit of work done. I started with the spring. I printed the excellent spring forming tool from this thread... It worked a treat after I read the part mentioning that the tool needed to be glued to the PVC pipe. It doesn't work too great without being glued on there. But man did it produce a nice spring. Just perfect. Unfortunately it didn't fit the Quest blaster. The tube walls are apparently super super thick. So I shrunk the spring down to the 1/2" pipe size annnd... still too big. WTF blaster? Then I finally got out the calipers and measured the tube. I wandered all over the garage and house looking for a decent pipe or handle that would go in the E11 and found a random bamboo butterfly net from last summer. It fit just right. I shrunk the spring down to fit the bamboo but had just terrible spacing on the coils, so I smashed it down to full compression and then manually opened each coil up to a mostly-even spacing. Once inside the barrel I rotated things to show 11 exposed coils. It scratched the heck out of the inside, so I carefully repainted with a small brush... and got paint on the spring. It has since been fixed. No visible paint is currently on that spring. Then I got brave and whipped out the dremel. Off came the blobs on the front barrel and in went Tino's correct socket head capscrews. I'll fill any imperfections with green stuff. But holy crap is this a lot better by itself. And the Quest Design resin cuts easily. I decided I was bold enough to hack out this incorrectly pointing screw... and then I discovered it was aluminum under the paint. Some careful work with a screwdriver has it pointing the right way.

I just received a message from Denix, with an image showing possible items to be made by them in the future. And there is ... a Sterling (and a few other interesting things ;)). It is a C1 Sterling though, so I wrote them a long message explaining the differences between Mk4 L2A3 and C1, both from military point of view, as well as Star Wars point of view, and I attached a few representative images for them to understand better. And in the end I told them they should make both the Mk and C1, because Star Wars fans as well as military and gun replica collectors and enthusiasts will buy both versions.

Welcome to FISD !! looking forward for your BBB day and first photos . !! Commission builds usually needs some few adjustments so don't worry . We are here to help you get the best !

1. Ben 2. Connolly 3. 19984 4. A4 5. Chemi Here you go, Ben! https://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/19984-eib.png

Welcome! You have a fun road ahead. I built an AP kit almost 18 months ago to Centurion. It was my first ever build, but Mark (at AP) is happy to provide advice and there is also a tonne of advice and tips to be found from folks here and in their build threads. Have fun and never be afraid to ask questions [emoji3526] Sent from my Imperial Communicator

Welcome Trooper !! You may want to check our advanced tactics EIB and Centurion Programs.

Back to the build. Been busy with test fitting and talking with Walt on setup. So active on the build, but I didn't want to share the back and forth of a new kit. Walt is a great guy to deal with on this suit. Going to go for Centurion so making as many changes now as possible before painting. Studying lots of builds and decided to do the bicep accuracy changes. The resin insert is the correct size (at least from other makers kits) so I adjusted the plastic (Walt with adjust the molds to fit the resin piece). I went ahead and cut the bicep to remove the rounded over edge from the vac process. Also removed the indent on the bicep to make it sharper and more defined. Still need to fill and sand again, but wanted to show some forward progress. And finally the overall look. I still need to straighten the clasp indent

That's what I did with mine. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Will be doing the magnetic shins ala' Cricket: