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Santa hid a beautiful hunk of resin under the tree this year for me. I thought I'd do a build thread for this thing... whatever I end up doing to it. This is the blaster in it's stock gorgeous state from Quest Design Canada. It's just lovely. And that loveliness is the reason I'm a bit hesitant to hack it up. I mean, I will, but it's just so pretty out of the box. I asked for mine to be shipped as unbuilt as possible and Quest wasn't too happy about that request, but agreed to have the counter and rear cap not installed. Don't get me wrong, Quest Design was very nice to deal with, but they really didn't want to ship anything but a completed blaster. And complete it is. I'll detail how many of the parts on this are NOT resin using my patented Magnet Technique (tm). Metal grip screw 3 metal screws on the front scope (I don't believe the tiniest front screws are metal). And, of course, the included aluminum scope rail. Metal trigger guard. The screws holding it in place are also metal. The tiny screw behind the power cyls is metal. And there's a screw holding the aluminum rail in place. Did I mention the aluminum rail and the nice mount for the counter? So awesome. And here's all the goodies I have to upgrade this unsuspecting blaster with. To my knowledge, this is the last kit that @T-Jay had in stock. I received it late November and am still overjoyed to have it. SO. Many. Parts!!! Red lens monocular to hack up and install in the scope. Hollowed out Hengstler counter! A plethora of micro screws and nuts. Single LED for scale. The larger screws and goodies. And a set of greeblies from @justjoseph63 Now I just have to figure out what I want to change and what I'm happy with. The scope and counter are certainly getting some luv. The screws at the barrel front are also easy marks. Probably the grip lock screw as well. And I need to print that spring forming tool. If anyone has hacked up one of these, I'd love some suggestions.

Greetings and a Happy New Year from the North of Germany, I have been approved as a member of the German Garrison since October 24, 2021 . I have attended several troops since my approval and I just have to say: I love being a stormtrooper! I always wanted to be one of these cool white guys and last year that dream came true. At the moment I'm trying to 3D print a DLT-19 by myself and I've found some really helpful topics here. I also created and 3D printed my own imperial handcuff holder and a plate with my TK ID for my Stanley box. Maybe I can write a little topic about this stuff later for those of you who are interested in such things. Trying my best to be a helpful member of the FISD Regards Birgit (TK 71384)

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the EI ranks

Quest Design makes IMO the best pre-built blaster out there. Lots of great details, but Tino's kit will bring it t the next level! By the way, I purchased a lot of Tino's stock and will be offering up the finishing kits at some point in the near future. I think one of the reasons they probably don't like to sell their product unassembled is that someone could re-cast the various parts. A few things I would suggest: 1. Make sure the Hengstler counter is in the "ideal" position. 2. It's not a big deal by any means, but the Philips head screws could be replaced with V-head screws and then the tops filled in as there were no screws on the trigger mount area. Side note: Philips head screws weren't used on TK blasters until ROTJ. 3. Assuming you will be making your own "fuses" for the center with Tino's kit, be extra careful when removing (grinding out) the ones that are cast into the present one, as well as the screws on the front of the power cylinders. My set up using Tino's kit Looking forward to seeing your progress, so take your time, ask lots of questions and I'm sure it will turn out spectacular!

Denix has released the MG34, and this is an excellent news for the Star Wars fans too as it is the base for the Sandtrooper/Sandtrooper DLT-19 rifle. https://www.denix.es/en/catalogue/world-war-i-ii-1914-1945/submachine-gun/1317/ I have one on pre-order and was thinking about the few greeblies needed to make the MG 34 a good DLT-19. First we have the t-tracks which can be bought from wannawanga. But we also need the disc and belt feeder box, does anyone make them:

Hi everyone,Just wanted to wish you all a Happy New Year and introduce myself as a new member! I say new, but I originally joined about 20 years ago, when I first decided to follow my dream of being a trooper.I attended an event as an observer, and did buy a suit, but sadly had to sell it shortly after, to pay for other things. I never gave up on the idea though, and actually kept the fabric neck seal I bought then all this time, hoping I would get there some day! Think I still have the voice board I bought in the loft somewhere too!So anyway, watching the Mandalorian has reignited my desire, and after after a couple of pretty difficult years on the work front (I'm a Paramedic) & life generally, I've decided it's time to give it a other go. So here I am! Hoping to speak to, and maybe meet some of you in the near future! And thanks in advance for any advice along the way.Damien

Thanks everyone for your input, will be trooping the weekend for a number of hours so will see how my rest rapping works out. Not aiming for a higher clearance level for my kit, am happy being a bog basic trooper having fun with the crowds

Congratulations trooper!!! And that's just about the finest EIB trading card ever.

Congratulations Trooper!! Welcome to EIB ranks.

Hey Chemi! Super pleased to have made Expert Infantry. Really appreciate all the pointers to get to Centurion. I'm confident I can do most of these easily except for the last one. Will drop a message to the DO team as suggested. Thank you once again! All the best, Ben

Hi Ben, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. First of all, congratulations, you have great armor. Great job!!! Let's start from the top. -We are suggesting that you move the bottom of the right ear(the left is almost perfect) toward the back a bit. Ideally, as seen in the reference images the angle should follow the rear angle of the trap above them, and the center of the round part at the top, should sit directly below the brow line(ideally covering the overlap join of the cap/faceplate). Reference images -Your helmet looks like it's a little high. For more accuracy (and perhaps also to improve your field of vision a bit), you could remove some padding from the top to lower it a bit. Reference images -The corners of the ab-button plates, should have an angle of 90 degrees. You may be able to trim them a little. That would be great. Reference images -In addition, for more accuracy, the small ab-button plate could be a little shorter at the bottom. Reference images -About the hand guards, they are acceptable for both EIB and Centurion(they meet the "requirements"). But we think that "ideally" they should be concave and not convex. Reference images -Your right thigh seems a little lower than your left. A simple strap adjustment. An easy fix. Reference images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements; In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. -L3- All ear screws must be "..slotted, flat-topped, countersunk and painted white". The lower screws of the ears could be countersunk to make them more flush. They may need to be straightened a bit as well. Reference images -The overall paint job on the helmet is perfect. Very nice job!!!. . I would just touch up two lines of the vocoder. It will only take you 30 seconds with a toothpick and some alcohol or other similar product (paint remover), that does not have acetone. Reference images -L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. A quick strapping issue here. If you can, we would like to see the shoulder bells raised to where the tops are closer to the shoulder bridge. This would help minimize the gap between them and the chest / back plates. Reference image -L3: Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. The gap is not too exaggerated(valid for EIB), but for Centurion, we would like to see the abdomen and kidney armor, a little closer if possible. Maybe it's just a matter of tightening the canvas belt.. Reference images - L3 : Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Unfortunately, we think that the upper ribbets are too far from the edge. You'd need to remove the rivets, drill new holes, and fill the old ones. It's a more complicated fix, but it can definitely be done and we're sure you can do it. Reference images Nothing more to add, Ben(#1040). We look forward to seeing your Centurion application soon. If you need help, you can send us a message to the whole DO team(LINK), we will be happy to help you.

Finally done with all the rough trimming and man my arm is sore. That was a lot of plastic to trim. I went from a big box of plastic to a big box of plastic and lots of scraps. Things are roughly trimmed to make sure I didn't cut too much since I'm really new on how all this is going together. I do have to say that the ABS Walt uses seem to be springier and more flexible than my MTK ANH kit, which seems like a good thing, but did require more effort in trimming. First part of assembly will probably be shoulder bells since that seems the easiest thing to do. And I'll probably start printing a Heavy F-11D.

I think what you have in the first photo is just dandy, Adam. Maybe a smidge lower, but I would have no issue passing that at L3 even as it is.

im a little bit glad that this difference exists. XX-TK-421 was taken for license plate in my area. had to use XX-TK-241 instead. (XX being the region code, redacted it to avoid a doxx)

I hadn't even thought about those phillips screws on the trigger guard. I'll certainly take care of them. There's also one holding the rail in place on top that'll get swapped out. On the counter, is THIS the ideal location? This is basically as far back as the metal rail attachment allows. I can go slightly higher or a lot lower. I can also remove some meat off that rail attachment to bring the counter back a bit farther. It's just taped in place. Trying to go off this one, but I'm just not quite sure.

The main reason why the bridges tend to do this is because of the curve. They will always move to the location where that curve lies. Only way to change it is to either heat bend the bridge so it naturally falls to the position you want. I had/have the same issue, so I actually added some industrial Velcro to mine. It is low profile enough to allow the bridge to sit almost flush on the back plate and stopped it from sliding out to the side following the set curve of the plastic.

I cut the top opening and further processed the interior so that the pipe fits better. I closed the end with a scrap of ABS and is about 4 cm long / 1.57 inch I'm still waiting for the belt boxes, they should arrive at the end of next week. Next time I will try everything on and then paint it (if there are no comments or suggestions for improvement). Thank you again for your feedback!

Thank you, Lord_Potato. I may yet have to straighten the top line of my kidney plate, though for now it seems ok. The issue for me wasn’t so much that the whole assembly was crooked. It was that the left side of the ab plate was simply shorter than the right. By cutting the top off the ab right and shortening the kidney evenly on both sides, it now fits my 5’8” frame better anyway. Next thing I’m shortening is the back plate. The tabs still stick up about half an inch above my shoulders when it’s all put together and the crotch is snug. I’ve already heated and curved them round more but it’s not enough. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk