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Leia blaster grip injection molds underway,,, shouldnt be much longer Got the safety and trigger linkage stampings done

The hensoldt lower dial after the bead knurl

Since my last update, I have my TK number and am now an official member of the 501st. I've already done a troop at a local zoo which was a blast. In a few weeks I'll be doing one at a local minor league hockey game for their Star Wars night. Going after my Expert Infantry is on hold until the new helmet arrives, but I am getting some of the other fixes done. The easiest was shortening the shoulder to chest straps. The only difficulty there was that the snap is now so close to the shoulder bell it was hard to hold the snap while hammering it against the anvil. I still need to trim a little return edge, but once that is done I'm hoping to get the gap I am looking for. I also removed and reattached the forearm to bicep strap. The length was great, but it forced the forearm to twist. I reattached it in a way that should keep the cover strips lined up much better. And finally, I'd like to say I installed some v-tabs for the butt/kidney armor... I'm going to call them u-tabs instead. First time using a heat gun to bend PVC and it was a learning experience. Fortunately, I managed to do it without any burns on the fingers. Calling that a win. I'll post pictures once I get them uploaded into imgur.

Now with minimal sheen.

Found a new and useful technique by accident last night. Likely guys that have been costuming a while already know this, but figured it could be useful for newer troopers. I always check my kit after a troop to see if any repairs are needed. Discovered last night that shining a torch from behind your armour is great for highlighting cracks that you could otherwise not notice or are 'only just' starting to form. Here's my shoulder bridge with no back-light. You can just about see a crack forming. But with a torch behind its impossible to miss. Catching cracks early while they're still small could save a real headache during a troop.

Think I will try 3 and like you said with E6000 I can always make changes. Thanks! Thanks!

As far as I'm aware any generic heat gun should be ok, mine is just a cheapy from a local hardware store You could always post on your local garrison boards, perhaps someone can lend you one

You're welcome !. Pd: As you can see in the photos, I used just 2 snaps each side, but you can try with 3 depending on your adjustment preference. Using E6000 allow to roll back and change the system if necessary.

Yes, mainly to help reduce the Ab/Kidney Gap. I Used elastic first but It did not work. At least to me.

Thank you Mario. Do you find having a nylon strap there instead of an elastic is better? M

I used snaps behind the rivets for splitting the armor for air transport, worked well. I did however shorten the posts of the rivets so they were just enough to split into the snap. It's a bit hard to control heat with a hot water bath, I prefer a heat gun as you can apply heat to just one area. If you are stuck with a hot water bath then make a plug out of wood to sit behind the whole piece, then once warm press against with another block of wood and run forward/backwards until cooled.

Hi Matt, 1- For the to butt section, I would suggest to use a heat gun (carefully) you can make a test with some ABS scrap piece first. 2- I do use snaps for the AB/Kidney Connection with no issues. This is how I did it.

I just ordered them yesterday, so I am not certain. Just couldn’t find any other options.

I just ordered my boots from Crowprops. They custom build and can do wide boots. I have a size 13 US sized foot with an E width. here is the email they sent me; ”Yes, we make tailored products in every size, wide sizes too. Just make the order through our website and in the PayPal notes write “US 13 E Wide size” and we will ask you for additional information when we write for the measurements.” They also ship worldwide through DHL.

Well I am attempting to join the Facebook page. I’ll check it out once approved. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Crowprops Website: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/jhodpur-tk-white-short-boots

Just to reiterate the value in using a torch from behind to pick up armour cracks early No torch Torch from in front Torch from behind

Looking sharp, Bobby! As you mentioned, there are always a few tweaks here and there, and nothing jumps out too much.. mostly strapping issues. I know it was your first time suiting up, but to add to what Steven mentioned, I would suggest: 1. The ABS belt should come up quite a bit. I see that the snaps are there, but Velcro will work as well. 2. If possible, the shoulder bells could come in to where the tops touch the shoulder bridges. If not, no biggie. 3. The biceps definitely need to come up. They should not overlap the forearm. 4. I noticed that your sniper knee is getting caught behind the bottom of the thigh. A common problem that can be remedied by adding a foam strip behind the top of the calf (along the seam) to help push it out. 5. The thighs look a little low and uneven. These can be raised, which would also help with the sniper knee plate overlap. These are just suggestions, but they will definitely give you a better, more screen accurate look. If you need help with anything, just let us know!

Thanks Brian, I did not realize how much work was involved either LOL. I can see the light at the end though! It has been both challenging and fun....

In the same spirit, i've always found these diagrams by Billhag extremely handy for new comers.