Leaderboard

I modeled and 3D printed a lightsaber based on Narsil from Lord of the Rings. The design is based on Jake Bartok’s (IG @jakebartok) artwork, and Tehran Props (IG @tethan_props_) adaptation of it, but I wanted one to use the Savi lightsaber chassis from Disney’s Galaxy’s Edge, so I designed one for myself. All the original features of the Savi lightsaber remain unchanged including interchangeable kyber crystals, sounds, and galaxy’s edge blades. Hope you enjoy it!

Thanks folks and I appreciate the useful responses I’ve never crafted anything before so it’s really beneficial to have such patient and helpful people to answer my many questions (and there will be many more haha). Hopefully those following my thread will find answers to questions that will help them with their own builds.

Grip the back of the rivet tightly with pliers before drilling. Use a very sharp drill bit on slow speed. You are only trying to remove the top of the rivet not drill right through as the rest will pull out once the top is gone.

When reviewing references especially for higher level clearance the overall appearance of costumes is used, for instance we don't allow Mr No Stripes even though he is seen in ANH. With a lot of reference on Star Wars helmets they are of older helmets in poor condition and brow trims may have shrunk over time. Most of the ESB helmets are reused ANH so the majority would have the trim stopping closer to the ear / trap angle and as I said the trim may have shrunk over time, there are not many examples of the short trim in ANH It would really be up to the DO's for higher level clearance but personally I would try to stick with their references. Here are some references the DO's use ESB A few other screen references

Just a heads up, using just one photo of one Prop isn’t the best approach for 501st approval as the originals had all kinds of quirks that are not approvable

I’m loving these memes. Although at the rate Glen is cranking them out, he’s going to hit 30K posts in no time [emoji1787].

Thanks! I really appreciate it. Let me do some research and I’m sure I’ll have some more questions.

Thanks Luca! That link is very helpful

Got some work done this morning... more than I figured I would. After doing a simple fix to the thigh straps, I was trying on the legs to get an idea of how big the mobility cuts needed to be and I noticed my shins kept riding up. It's going to make getting dressed out a little more challenging but I have decided to add elastic stirrups to them. The snaps are glued into the shins and drying. With these 2 issues taken care of I'll decide how much to trim tomorrow. The other issue I noticed is that my shoulders didn't seem to sit right. I know the RS TK shoulders aren't identical which makes it a little challenging but I think this is more of an issue with my 50 year old posture not being what it was. I replaced the left shoulder strap with a new one that has the arm attachment button around 1/2" further forward and it made a huge difference. Finally, I've been adding electronics into the wonderfully spacious helmet. No challenge at all given the cavernous dimensions! I have the fan kit installed and now taking a break from this to get some yard work done. Before I do any more, I'm taking the dremel to cut the brass bolts off so they stop scratching my nose every time I twist the armor on. Then I'll go back to figuring out how to get the voice package installed in a manner my head will still fit. On pace to post a photo package for review tomorrow to make sure I'm ready for my submission.

This might help when it comes to applying the ABS paste: Whilst you're at it, it might not be a bad idea to fill the dents in the front as well, because that way you can just sand everything smooth at once. I'm no DO, so it might be better to listen to them, but at least to me those seem okay

In addition to the BlastFX system I have been experimenting with the addition of smoke effects... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Here is a quick vid of BlastFX in action... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

For those who are adding BlastFX here is how I fit the board and wiring loom... The power switch is fitted in the mag housing and the battery and charging port is accessed by removing the end cap. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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Congratulations Steven!!

You can certainly get away without purchasing a Dremel type rotary tool to use for the helmet, but since you will eventually be building a whole set of armor I would suggest picking one up. It will make things much easier (trust me) and it comes in handy for all sorts of projects in the future. You don't have to buy the Dremel brand, though... there are many less expensive alternatives out there for a lot less. Here is a cordless one I found on the UK Amazon site for less than 25 pounds. As for the tool box, absolutely without a doubt. Staying organized during your build is one of the things I suggest most, and this is an excellent idea!