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Troopacoola

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by Troopacoola

  1. That's what I did with mine. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  2. These promo pics show the ground down muzzle, and removed ring mount. It also looks like the mag housing details have been removed except the release button on top
  3. Which are you going to build Joseph? The hero or Pugman style? Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  4. Here is a quick demo of the BlastFX in action... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  5. Lastly was just a case of fitting the remaining components, a little touch up of paint and weathering. I went for a textured undercoat too Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  6. Hi everyone! Thought I would post some pics of my cleaned up version of the Pugman. Thanks to Mark at Sheartech who kindly allowed me to use his casts as a base to produce sharper casts moving away from the "rough and ready" version. Hope you like, and as always any suggestions and feedback are welcome! Marc Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  7. Nice work Steven! There is plenty of room inside the grip for a switch and cables, great idea! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  8. Enjoy the build!! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  9. No the mold is correct. These are not directly meant to be functional stocks to be honest. Just casts from my origional. But, they can be converted to function. If it breaks, don't blame me! [emoji1787] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  10. The arm will need hollowing out some in order to accommodate the spring and abs tube but not all the way down it. Once that's done dry assemble the folding stock and dry fit it to the blaster. You can then line up and mark on the arm where you need the clip channel to be. Use the hole at the front underside of the barrel as a guide. The chanel only needs to be around 10mm in length. Drill out the channel and sand down. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  11. Can you post some pics up of the arm Rodney? I'm pretty sure yours does have the semi hollow arm with the recess for the arm clip. Here is a pic that had been shared both here and oin the JMC FB group[emoji846] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  12. I think it's called "Green Stuff" in the States. In the UK I use milliput which is a 2 part epoxy putty. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  13. Lots of cable running out of that lid. Could you not reduce this? Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  14. In addition to the BlastFX system I have been experimenting with the addition of smoke effects... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  15. Here is a quick vid of BlastFX in action... Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  16. For those who are adding BlastFX here is how I fit the board and wiring loom... The power switch is fitted in the mag housing and the battery and charging port is accessed by removing the end cap. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  17. Thank you! Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  18. Back to the ANH E11..... The trigger assembly the most solid resin piece in the kit. Saying that, there is still no need to grind any resin out as there is plenty of room to fit the trigger. There is a great tutorial on this in the Blaster ref Guide, which is how I fitted my trigger. A nice little extra is that by following the ref guide you can have a working trigger function with the aid of the small spring which is included in my kits. The grip was cleaned up and the hex bolt fitted. in this case the bolt is resin. However, I supply all replacement metal bolts and screws etc in the kit. Next was to drill out the hole for selector switch. If you wanted to have this functional you could always drill the opposing side, fit a small bolt into the switch itself and then fill. With a little more work, you could even install a rotary switch to add that "click" to the selector. This is a really good feature and works a treat and is also an option that BlasFX offer. In this example the selector switch for BlastFX are shown. I have also added an example using black and beige resin parts assembled so you cam see the components, along with my method for adding age. Once the trigger assembly was complete it was time to fit the grip. The grip slides nicely on to the assembly and is secured with adhesive. Once dry, the holes were drilled into the assembly (indicated by the holes in the grip) for the almost final components. The metal grip screw and "cap" were then installed. With the trigger guard installed this assembly is done. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  19. Sorry for the lack of updates. I will post more soon! In the meantime here is a sneak pack at the Pugman style ESB kit I am working on making. Some of these parts are reworked casts from ( and with permission from ) Mark at Shear Tech .
  20. The grip is a direct cast, so the internal features are exactly the same as the original. I drill the hole out with enough depth to accommodate the hex bolt and then glue in situe Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  21. A 10mm bit will open it up [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  22. Another easy assembly. Drilling out the rear of the D-ring mount allows for fitting. Then it was just a case of installing the ring mount to the end cap. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  23. Here is how I do my weathering effects . After priming and spraying silver, I do several layers Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  24. This^^^ Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  25. I would recommend painting the bolt ahead of installation. However, masking it off once fitted is no biggie. Hot glue or resin putty can be used to hold the bolt in place whilst you apply adhesive. For the more adventurous I am sure that making this functional would be possible with some small mods! The charging handle will have a small post drilled into it and then fitted to the bolt with some adhesive Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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