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As Glen mentioned, this is the first instance I've seen of rubber gloves using stitched hand plates. While I admire the effort to look a little more screen accurate, the CRL requirements in this area are quite precise. For Basic approval in ESB (and ANH for that matter) it states that the guards only need be "mounted securely over the back of the glove" (i.e. straps). When it comes to ESB EI level and above, if using rubber gloves the guards are "mounted securely over the back of the glove". The key phrase here is "mounted securely", as opposed to "affixed" (glued) as required in Level 3 for ANH Stunt/Hero. The word affixed does not appear in the ESB CRL. "If silk or satin gloves are worn, the hand plates have the correct stitching pattern using a 5 point star with 2 on each side and one in the middle front." While it does not specifically mention strapping as an alternative to actually sewing then to the gloves, I feel it is implied. While I can't tell if the guards are actually stitched on, I noticed that you included silk/satin gloves in your first set of photos. I am in the middle of an ESB build as well, and to be honest I thought long and hard about which method to use. The rubber gloves/straps are easier to deal with, but even though the gloves will need to be hand washed I went with the stitching method. I even thought about the combination of the two like you did, but decided against it due to the reasons mentioned above. You have a dynamite looking set of armor there, Brett, and I assume (hope) that you will be applying for EI and Centurion! My advice at this point would be to stitch them onto the satin gloves. The alternative would be to get a new set of guards and use the strapping method. One other quick comment if I may.. In the first photo below your bicep placement is spot-on, allowing for a nice gap between the wrist opening and guards. However, in the second (more recent) image they are way lower, which is causing your forearms to sit too far down and ride over the right hand guard. I would definitely raise them up. Just my opinion, but as much as I love ESB armor I think onscreen that it was the sloppiest of all the OT... especially the biceps for some strange reason. Maybe they used actors that over 6 ft. for this one, lol. Even though the discrepancies are seen onscreen in many cases, I still think you should raise the biceps/forearms a bit. (What the...) ? "Ideal"

Hi Joseph. Great to hear from you as always. I'll just clarify a few pionts so were all on the same page the handgaurds on the rubber gloves are held in place with elastic straps. I purely added the stitching to look more authentic. My thought process was just for the aesthetics and like you said stitching to a rubber glove would be a challenge! As i understand then its silk gloves and I'll add the front stitching or rubber gloves NO stitching and elastic straps. Thanks for the comments so far I really appreciate it. I lowered the biceps to achieve that ESB look but I take your point and I'll return them to the original position. The other fixes will be sorted as well as i apply for higher levels. Thanks again..maybe this is my next job

Not a stir at all just an interesting situation, I've been doing this for nearly 10 years and can't remember seeing anyone using rubber gloves with stitching. To me I wouldn't attempt.as I would thing they could pull through the rubber. Hopefully we'll here from the DO's soon, but again should not hold you up for basic approval

Hi everyone. Good to be here. Just got my first full ESB build from RSpropmasters. Hoping to learn more about the trooping trade around here.

Here we go again! Going to use my already cleared ESB TK as the basis for this. That's cleared to level 3 already, so hopefully the common parts will be good to go. Link to UKG basic thread (for those that view it) https://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=126&t=77264 Link to EIB thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51095-tk-46116-requesting-esb-eib-status-rwa-1025/ Link to Centurion thread https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51123-tk-46116-requesting-esb-centurian-status-rwa-502/ What I believe I need to swap out or add are: - replace lid with anh stunt - replace gloves with rubber with glued on anh latex handguards - replace belt (no holster poppers and no drop boxes) - add appropriate weapon (probably going for RDR dlt-19) - add 3 x ammo pouches (either side of belt and one at shoulder) - add orange pauldron - add the back pack - maybe don't fit td, depending on how pack fits 'May' not go for light weathering until after basic clearance and going for level 2 (not sure yet). Was given a tip of using mascara and a makeup brush (thanks Justin), so it's easy to swap back to shiny white. Already spoken to Burkbench for making up faux leather ammo pouches. Said they've not done them before, but shouldn't be an issue. Will get the faux leather pauldron from them too. Will be going to RDR for the dlt-19. Waiting to hear that he's finished updating his mold and selling again. Considering adding BlastFX later (just because and for giggles). Pack will be interesting. Following threads about it, but not sure about sourcing parts in the UK and I don't have a 3d printer. Help on sourcing/making bits greatly appreciated. Will be placing the first order for some of the above bits around payday at the end of the August. Ta, Rich

You will be ok with E6000 sticks pretty well to plastic and can have some flex too. If pieces like forearms and shins are too difficult to put on glued perhaps add elastic to one side so it will hinge open then add velcro to the other side

Cool. Just wanted to be absolutely sure before going in either direction. End of the day, lvl 2 and 3 are about being increasingly accurate, so totally get that these kind of decals should not be present. All good. Thanks Glen [emoji106]

One more just for good measure Former DO Tony and a different application

Those two threads are ones I quickly found, there are others out there on the subject. Here is just one post in an application by a DO asking for it's removal, again there are more and this has always been the case since I've been a member, most will seek L2 and L3 approval and once approved just have decals applied again, Also a confirming comment by our current DO lead Joseph in the exact same application I know another member who has two shoulder bells, one with one without decal, great idea for LFL cannon events

Correct, not allowed for L2 or L3

That's a good point. I might give E6000 a try first Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Great and super fast fixing Trooper !! thanks

All good mate. You're right that the words can be interpreted in a couple of ways, and it's good to get clarity. I think it's only through conversations like this that details get worked out [emoji106]

Hi, Have trimmed back the top and bottom paint line of the teeth. Is that ok? TIA Colin Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi There, Thanks for your time. I will get on it straight away today and post a new photo of the alteration. Thanks, Colin Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What up Cordell I am also in northern Cali. Need any help hit me up. Welcome to FISD.

Welcome to the forum Trooper.

Correct, just the stock is brown For my build I used a lot of industrial spray paint as they are a little tougher, silver base then the black I used a satin as I find it gives a better appearance. You can add weathering but don't add to the T tracks, they would have been plastic like the E-11's

I think from memory "Ideally" was added to the FO CRL's as there was only one clear image at the time showing the neckseal having 11 ribs and no proof others were the same. 11 here: But looking at these two images there only appears to be 10 ribs (right side trooper, oh and disregard the arrows ) 10 here as well Going off other images it appears 11 ribs is consistent throughout other TLJ/TROS costumes though

I would think the DO's would pretty much pick this up at L2, they all have eagle eyes and the CRL specifically states the two options

As long as it meets the basic guidelines in the CRL for anything above basic level as no blaster required, and it is sanded and finished correctly to remove any print lines, then it should be fine