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I haven't yet gone through my entire BBB from ATA Works...I have to say/admit I'm a bit intimidated by it but what see from a cursory perspective is quality. I also have two pairs of ears as reported earlier which is a bit of a relief. I'll be taking my time in working the armor so as to read all the advice. I know I'll be working the bucket first as that seems to be the most intricate.

Hasbro reveals the new Star Wars Black Series First Order Stormtrooper Helmet, available in the Spring. $99USD. Available to preorder Thursday Feb. 25th at 11AM PST.

Greetings! Would it be possible to get the "Closed" and other obsolete posts in the Detachment Merchandise section archived so it's not so difficult to determine what is actually available?

That's great info, especially taking my time. I figure it'll be like any new project that once I get started i'll get a bit more comfortable with the process. I'll check out You Tube for sure. I've been mostly looking through all the great tutorials in these forums, they've been really helpful. Thanks!

No skin off my back - it isn't my product! I've just been a solid convert to the rubber blaster life and wanted to clarify on the Hengstler thing since I have some inside knowledge haha And I feel you. It's tough to find that "perfect" blaster without a ton of legwork. I started with a Rubies Rebels and modified the heck out of it until it was as good as it could be for what it was, then stepped up to an older Hyperfirm, before recently ordering a Hellhounds - I was particularly impressed with his separate metal scope rails, which was my biggest gripe with my Hyperfirm. For trooping, remember that no one else can tell the difference anyways! haha For hanging on the wall, I'd go with Fieldmarshal's kit in a heartbeat personally.

Just throwing it out there that Hellhounds does include a Hengstler when appropriate (he does do the ESB version without them as well on request) - I know this because it's modeled off of @Oztrooper's real one! I've been impressed with the accuracy for how tough they are.

Yes. The tracks are just temporary set. I can take them out no problem for when I paint the tube.

Sounds good, Brian. Is it still possible to remove the T-tracks? That would safe a lot of extra masking work when painting.

Like Mario has mentioned above, not many if any come to this hobby experienced in assembling TK armour. The first cut is always the hardest but everything gets easier as you progress and learn new skills. By the end of it, you have the ultimate satisfaction in knowing you built your armour to fit you perfectly, and you will take pride in instructing others when they start their journey. You got this Bill.

T Tracks- I tried to use as many parts from the original DVH kit for this blaster but unfortunately the t tracks that were supplied did not work out as I had hoped. They were resin casted making them super brittle and nearly impossible to bend without breaking. I tried multiple times heating the plastic using various techniques but the end result was always bad. I did manage to bend a few to nearly the proper angle needed but it became too unpredictable to continue. Luckily I bought t track from Marv many moons ago and decided to give them a try. First time working with these tracks but it was great. Easy to heat up and bend. The only thing I did wrong was bending the track too quickly which left obvious signs where the plastic was being flexed. Slow bending is key so the plastic stretches evenly. Once the tracks are on the tube it really transforms it to a galaxy far far away. I wasn't that excited to get this blaster done due to the work it needed but after the tracks went on I think I got my second wind. Next up: 1. Prime coating 2. Finish off a set of power cylinders 3. Prep the scope rail to mount the scope and counter (need to make a bracket for the counter too) 4. Make a spring 5. Somehow add the bolt detail 6. Maybe change how the magazine gets installed; use a magnet or headphone jack style connection. 7. Attach the trigger guard & D ring 8. Paint- considering to try crinkle paint for this blaster so it matches the crinkle paint details still present on the stock. 9. Probably forgetting something .......

Thanks, Glen! Kinda figured that was the case but I wanted to ask. I've seen that gaps are expected, even in the movies!!

looking great Jonathan, easy pass

Hi Tina, I will be making your review . You have made a great work with the EIB fixed requested and your armor looks awesome, only a few quick fixes are needed before we can add the Centurion Badge under your name: Looking closely to your helmet's vocoder , it looks like there are like "pencil marks" around the top bumps , we are requesting to clean up this area . Personally I would suggest to take the next step for a better look and reshape a little the vocoder’s details. but this is only a suggestion. References Next we have the Ab buttons panel , the large one needs to be trimmed a little . The sides should not extend over the raised ridges, but should sit inside them and have no rounded corners. Also we need you to clean up a little the buttons paint so it doesn't extend beyond the raised edges. CRL: Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button Reference You have a shiny white armor, but the guards are way too weathered. The painting session will need to include a new coat of white paint for them References Finally. You may also want to glue some scraps of ABS behind the gaps in the back lower ridges of the thighs or fill them with ABS paste. References We are confident that you can address the requested fixes. Your Centurion Badge is waiting for you Tina.

Nice work trooper, looks like an easy pass for basic. Just on the vocoder you could straight the sides of the 2nd ridges they are a little angled

Again, thank you all for all the encouragement and knowledge

Wow that's amazing. Thank you so much for the time taken to scrutinise my application, no matter how much I think I may know or see i absolutely love the attention to detail that makes all the difference. Building this RS kit was a lot of fun and to achieve the E. I. B means a lot. Thanks to ALL the staff who makes this what it is . Hopefully I'll see you soon

Wow Trina, you look great! Good luck with your application.

Good luck Trina.

Hi Trina, thank you for your Centurion App. One of us will be with you shortly. Added to the proccesing line.

Hey Angela glad to have you back

I've trooped with you in several of your kits, including your first order TK. Can't wait to troop with you in the OT TK. Congrats Angela!

Nice collection.

Actually I think it is about this. The legion and Garrisons are supposed to have a morel standing. As it stands they couldn’t care less. This speaks volumes of the integrity of its staff. And should be highlighted. They are backing a known recaster saying all TM and recasters do is exactly the same as what I do. It’s so not. This was my response posted on my behalf and I think it explains the difference for anyone that doesn’t quite understand. “Some comments in regards to the TM recast saga that have been posted on the UKG forum and it really made me quite upset with some of the opinions about recasting. Let me explain the difference as its clear that some people dont understand what I do and what TM does. It is NOT easy finding, procuring, moulding and casting original Star Wars props and costumes so all of you wonderful troopers can run around in accurate armour and helmets doing the world some good. I spend thousands researching, finding and developing Cast from original props. My original stormtrooper helmet was valued at £120,000. It’s not something that serious collectors like to take apart and mould at a drop of a hat. It takes a long time to get to know these collectors and gain their trust that I won’t damage such an expensive piece of cinematic history. I then have to design the moulds so that they vacuum without faults. This takes again a lot of time, skill and experience to get right. I spend hundreds of pounds on moulding materials for each mould. Just to put it into context I have made 4 sets of moulds and casts of the Set for Stun ANH helmet trying to get the whole thing to assemble and look like it should. Also the sheets of plastic I go through prototyping all the moulds. This all cost money and time. You see none of this is done by a recaster. They wait for me to do all the hard work, spend my money and time developing products, finding props to mould for the community. Then they get a mate to purchase a kit and pour clay in the parts. So your “All I do is cast LFL helmets, it’s no different” attitude really doesn’t represent the trouble I go to and feel an establishment like the UKG should stand up for its trusted vendors rather than ridicule. You all represent the UKG costuming group. Some of your attitudes and opinions do not reflect well in this community. I don’t expect you to suddenly change your mind. Its your choice of how you view this situation but I thought I should just try and explain the difference. Because there is a massive difference. Just because TM “makes nice kits” really should not be a reason to condone recasting. If it wasn’t for people like me, RS and a few other quality vendors who go to these lengths TM and other recasters would not be “making nice kits” and you would all be wearing Anovos and rubies licensed armour and helmets. This is my business and main income and I have a family to feed and bills to pay just like anyone else. So yes, I do do it for the money but I also do this out of passion. I’m a fan and have been all my life. I am humbled that I am in a position to give a little back to the hobby I so cherish. All the best Mark aka CFO. Cast from original. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk